disk brake question...

DBrown · Post by **DBrown** » Sun Oct 09, 2005 3:02 pm

I guess this one is for Nobody mainly.....

are you still running drums in the front or have you converted over to chevy?

if you are still drum how does it hold up to the 36's?

I am looking around for conversion options because even though I have the 79 disk knuckles from the BII I don't like how low the steering is and I don't want to add the price of a steering upgrade on to the total cost right now. I was looking at the after market kits and saw they offered the caliper brackets and spindles seperate. do you or any one else know if you can use ford stuff(calipers, rotors, hubs, lockouts) with the conversion kit or is it something that you have to buy from them when you need a rotor, hub, or pads?

Post by **Nobody** » Sun Oct 09, 2005 7:14 pm

On my BII, I think I converted to disc before I stepped up to 36's. I don't really remember.

My EB is still drum. I've almost got everthing together to Hydroboost disc, and power steering. I'm driving it every day with manual drum brakes though.

I'd have to recommend against 36's and drums, unless the drum brakes are in tip top condition. If you add hydroboost to the drum brakes, that should be pretty decent.

As for the disc brakes, I personally think the best disc setup is:

Ford Drum Brake Knuckles(highest steering arm- Free)
Chevy Backing Plates(dime a dozen here - literally $3.50 ea)
Chevy Calipers ($6.50 ea at the yard)
Chevy Early Small Bearing Spindles (same bearing as ford about $11ea at the yard when you can find them.
Ford hub/rotor assembly($35 new)

The hardest thing to find is the spindles. Luckily dead chevys are plentiful, so the are pretty common. You can get them new for about $100ea I think.

Then when you are ready, ream the knuckles from the top and use the Chevy TRE/DRE.

You can easily sell your ford discs

DBrown · Post by **DBrown** » Sun Oct 09, 2005 8:50 pm

Ford Drum Brake Knuckles(highest steering arm- Free)
Chevy Backing Plates(dime a dozen here - literally $3.50 ea)
Chevy Calipers ($6.50 ea at the yard)
Chevy Early Small Bearing Spindles (same bearing as ford about $11ea at the yard when you can find them.
Ford hub/rotor assembly($35 new)

do you have any years for those parts?

I know I got the knuckles on the EB already and I already got the hub and rotor assembly. as far as the calipers I think I would rather just get those new. also if you are using the ford rotor and chevy spindle and caliper do you buy chevy pads?

those are some cheap prices, I need to start looking..........thanks

Post by **Nobody** » Mon Oct 10, 2005 5:16 am

The backing plates and calipers are the same on all the chev 6 lug dana 44's and 10 bolts. Pretty much any application for blazer or 1/2 ton pickup should work. You use the chev pads.

The small spindles came on *some* 6 lug dana 44's. I believe 72-76 is the year, but parts get swapped out over the years.

I think this is the part number 376853

ranger5.0 · Post by **ranger5.0** » Fri Oct 14, 2005 8:00 pm

Nobody wrote: Luckily dead chevys are plentiful, so the are pretty common. You can get them new for about $100ea I think.

You only say that cuz most people figure out that a dead ford isn't worth fixin' and they are sent to the scrap yard right away.

DBrown · Post by **DBrown** » Sat Oct 15, 2005 10:36 am

does anyone know if a TTB hub and rotor are the same?

gonna sell my whole front end to fund some body fixes.

Phillippi · Post by **Phillippi** » Sun Oct 16, 2005 10:49 pm

ttb d44 hub and solid d44 hub are the same. I just put one in mine last week.

DBrown · Post by **DBrown** » Mon Oct 17, 2005 4:26 am

so the hub is the same not just the lock out?

Post by **Nobody** » Mon Oct 17, 2005 5:19 am

Yep...bearing hub is the same. You can get the bearing hub and rotor with studs for about $35 NEW.

As for lockouts, they are the same even on chevs

DBrown · Post by **DBrown** » Mon Oct 17, 2005 12:13 pm

where are you finding it for $35 new?

Post by **Nobody** » Mon Oct 17, 2005 12:34 pm

I buy my stuff from Napa usually. If you have AAA they give you a decent discount.

http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/ncomm ... d=63161069

Here's a screen shot in case that link don't work.

DBrown · Post by **DBrown** » Mon Oct 17, 2005 2:36 pm

WOW, I didn't know they gave a AAA discount!!!!!

that is cheapest price I have seen.

Post by **Nobody** » Mon Oct 17, 2005 4:15 pm

Yep..... my AAA pretty much pays for itself in Napa discounts, and you have the comfort of having it when you are traveling. I drive all fords, so I don't ever use the free tows

I think I've saved $30+ on a clutch one time. AAA says 7%, but it actually varies from 0-20%+. It depends on what you are buying. Napa brand products give the biggest discount.

I was just looking into cherokee wiper arms for the EB, and they are $25ea at Napa, with AAA, they are $20. That's a 20% discount right there.

Post by **Nobody** » Mon Oct 17, 2005 4:18 pm

If you get the ones with a nice shiney machine finish, you can clearcoat them and it looks great! They eventually get scratched and rust though. My BII ones still look pretty good with a couple years of wheelin on them. I just did a quicky paint job.

DBrown · Post by **DBrown** » Mon Oct 17, 2005 7:06 pm

didn't you do the axle ends on the 9" also?

how did they turn out?