OK how about this

Ask technical questions about your Ford Bronco II here. Technical write-ups on your axle swaps, engine swaps, chop tops, etc. are encouraged.
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nickb
Posts: 10
Joined: Sun Oct 22, 2006 5:13 pm

OK how about this

Post by nickb »

If I put 3'' blocks in the back and 2'' coil spring spacers up front will I have any problems with my drive shafts, transfercase and front alignment on my 87 B2? Could someone give me an answer on this.THANKS FOR ANY HELP
Branman250b
Posts: 5
Joined: Sat Jun 17, 2006 9:06 pm

Post by Branman250b »

is it stock, you might need a new rear drive shaft if it is stock.you might also need an alignment.
If it weren't for Chevy, my tools would rust.
If Chevy is the heartbeat of America, then
American needs a pacemaker
nickb
Posts: 10
Joined: Sun Oct 22, 2006 5:13 pm

It is stock

Post by nickb »

Since it is stock would I be able to keep the rear drive shaft if I went with just 2'' blocks in the rear? THANK YOU FOR YOUR REPLY
Branman250b
Posts: 5
Joined: Sat Jun 17, 2006 9:06 pm

Post by Branman250b »

well the stock shaft sucks really bad and goes out so you might have to replace it,if i am worng someone please correct me.
If it weren't for Chevy, my tools would rust.
If Chevy is the heartbeat of America, then
American needs a pacemaker
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Joel H
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Joined: Mon Feb 13, 2006 11:08 am
Location: Randolph Manitoba

Post by Joel H »

Branman250b wrote:well the stock shaft sucks really bad and goes out so you might have to replace it,if i am worng someone please correct me.
Yes the stock CV shaft is garbage. Find a good double cardian shaft to put in it.
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Nobody
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Location: Stanwood, WA.
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Post by Nobody »

I don't like blocks. They cause axle wrap and u-joint failure. A much much better solution would be to build new shackle hangers that are lower. It's pretty much free lift.

As for the coil spacers, the TTB front ends have hard enough time keeping the tires pointed striaght. If you add spacers or longer springs without drop brackets, you're just asking for problems.
Branman250b
Posts: 5
Joined: Sat Jun 17, 2006 9:06 pm

Post by Branman250b »

I figure the best thig to do is just to by a lift kit. If you were wanting to run over 3inches because the way ford designed the suspesion your tire will do this /-\ But 2 inches should be fine.
If it weren't for Chevy, my tools would rust.
If Chevy is the heartbeat of America, then
American needs a pacemaker
texastud1983
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Joined: Sun Sep 17, 2006 10:40 am
Location: new caney, texas
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Post by texastud1983 »

Firts off not to get you all stirred up but Branman250b, you got your camble backwards. \--/
I agree with nobody, blocks are crap and if you go with coil spacers in the front getting that thing aligned will be a nightmare. Thats IF they can get the acentric bushings out to adjust the camber. The best thing to do it shop around and find you a lift with new, longer coils and drop brackets.
As for your drive shaft you should get rid of that thing even if you dont lift your BII. I've seen people wheel there stock BII's and have those crapy shafts come apart.
Eric C.
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Joined: Fri Nov 03, 2006 5:40 am
Location: Ocean Park WA

Post by Eric C. »

Texas is right. My drive shaft went south when I was headed north (literally) :flipoff: after a trip trough the center median in Wyoming in a snow storm in route to a Wind Turbine site. NAPA was able to order me a replacement in both lengths and we matched it up in there store front :D . It was the single cardigan (one U Joint at each end) but I had no problem after this till the tranny went further south than I was :wtf: . I try to keep mine at stock height as I use it for work also and not just play. A man's gotta do what a man's gotta do.
If I can't fix it, It ain't broke.
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