F150 conversion

Ask technical questions about your Ford Bronco II here. Technical write-ups on your axle swaps, engine swaps, chop tops, etc. are encouraged.
breefee_BII
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F150 conversion

Post by breefee_BII »

Ok I got the whole rolling chassis with harness computer everything. I want to take the suspension off of the 86 F150 frame. I have looked everywhere on this site and nobody has done this conversion that I can see maybe it because there is alot of fab work but I like the idea of having full size axles and suspension on the BII. If anyone has done this conversion and has any tips for me I would greatly appreciate it. I have added some pics so you guys can see what I'm tackling. this should be a fun project thats for sure I'm not sure the twin traction beam is the way to go but it's cheap for now. I'm not sure what kind of axles they are or what the transmission and transfer may be I'm a chevy guy, but the bronco was a free be "breefee". so I want to make it the craziest bronco II in utah no offense Phillipi becasue yours is prety wicked. Guys I want to do everything myself without a professional fabricator so lets put our heads together and make it a new conversion. oh yeah and does anyone know if the computer for the f150 would hook right into the bronco II ports, so that I have to do less wiring.
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suspension 2 f150.jpg
suspension 1 f150.jpg
$400 complete chassis deal of the century
$400 complete chassis deal of the century
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Phillippi
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Post by Phillippi »

I doubt that the wiring ill connect directly in with mods. Ill let you know if I get there before you. You do the same if you beat me.
FatMan
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Post by FatMan »

keep the motor axle and t-case, wire harness and fuel pump. the rest i would scrap. you could swap the body over or swap the axles but it would be alot of fab work in my opinion... if you want stronger axle then go with a d35/8.8 swap from a xploder. if tou ablolutely want full width axles then i would suggest keep the 8.8 you have for the rear but look for a solid leaf sprung d44 axle. the xploder swap would be the easiest though.
Darker than your average wheeler!!!!
breefee_BII
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Location: clearfield

Post by breefee_BII »

ok the f150 has TTB in the front will that bolt up to the TTB frame mounts on the BII. It looks like it will but I'm not for sure without breaking out the measuring tape. I realize I will have to do alot of fab work but if I ever go with D44 in the front I need to change the coil buckets anyway right, so if I do this the the buckets are already there and I may not have to change them. my ultimate goal is to be able to put 8 in lift on it and with f150 suspension I can. I want lots of travel and i think with the TTB my flex will be pretty cool on that BII. I plan to pull the suspension off on sunday so we'll see what happens wish me luck and any tips to take it off would be greatly appreciated.
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Phillippi
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Post by Phillippi »

No matter what ttb you have even with a lift, flex is going to be limited. If you want to stay fullsized, find a 78-79 bronco or f150 D44. Its almost a direct bolt in (new bolt holes lol) for the fullsize frame. With a solid front you will get lots more front end travel.
DBrown
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Post by DBrown »

if I were you I would pull the motor tranny and transfer case off the FS frame and swap that into the BII. I would also grab the rear...8.8/9" they are both good rears. then start looking for a solid front axle. the cab swap is a good way to go for some people but not for all. I did the cab swap and it was ok, it performed well and I was on the road in a few months. I liked it because it was probably easier then doing all the swap work but I did have alot of body gap and that is what made me rethink what I had done. the next one I do is going to be all BII frame and body but completely custom drive line.
71 Bronco - twin sticked, full width, 2" lift, wristed arm, lots of rust...

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breefee_BII
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Post by breefee_BII »

what would i be looking at for fab work on the front if I go with a dana 44 out of a 78 bronco FS. i just got a new welder and want to throw that front end off the ford for now while I save up money for a D44 swap. It came with the frame and it will mount up to the drivetrain. trust me i know this wouldn't be the most sturdy setup for the front but won't i need those coil buckets to be fullsize anyway if i do the swap? this is the only project I have and my wife works alot so i wanted something different to keep my busy for a while. plus i just wanted to prove to myself I didn't need someone else to touch my shit to make it right. except for the computer and wiring "LOL" i'll pay someone to make the final checks with that I hate wiring. I do value your opinions so thank you for your input D, and phil and everyone else.
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breefee_BII
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Post by breefee_BII »

I definately decided against the frame swap I think it would be more work than swapping suspension. I don't like the idea of the frame sticking out to the edge of the body. I think it would be a bit more heavy too. good news is the BII runs as of yesterday with the 2.9 runs like a champ so I may leave the engine in there for now but who knows maybe I'll just start pulling everything out and prepping it for the 302 since it's not a daily driver. Impulsiveness aint it a wonderful thing.
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Branman250b
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Post by Branman250b »

I don't know if anyone has said this yet but wouldn't the springs and all be so stiff. :confused: I have thought about this once or twice myself but you could use stock springs or whatever your running.
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breefee_BII
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Post by breefee_BII »

well one side is in and it took alot of fabrication on my part I had to build up the frame with 2X6 channel iron for the gap in between the coil buckets. They are just tack welded for now in about six spots so that once I drive it to see how straight it drives I can go back and either move them or grind the welds and adjust the caster. I used the buckets off the f150 too the BII won't work don't try it you'll be wasting your time, but the cool thing is the TTB bolts right up to your existing drop brackets, the only problem is it leaves a 2 inch gap this is where the channel iron comes in. I plan to start the drivers side tommorow I've already got it prepped. The problem i may run into is the traction bar off of the axle that may be a little fun to make it work, probably have to build up the frame. :wtf:

And that is the reason the springs aren't tight they will not mount to the existing frame trust me on this one I tried. :mad2:

balance will be out ragous when wheeling over rocks, the tires are on the outside of the fender reminds me of a low rider with Huge ass tires LOL.
Attachments
channel iron 2X6 look close
channel iron 2X6 look close
without the channel iron
without the channel iron
pre Fabrication "lots of fun" Get out the grinder and hammer, chissel and punch
pre Fabrication "lots of fun" Get out the grinder and hammer, chissel and punch
Not the best pic but it's sitting on the ground on 31x10.50x15 the tires start at the edge of the fender.
Not the best pic but it's sitting on the ground on 31x10.50x15 the tires start at the edge of the fender.
Last edited by breefee_BII on Tue Aug 15, 2006 10:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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breefee_BII
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Post by breefee_BII »

you are correct you can use the stock springs off the f150 but you can't use the BII coil buckets or the coils. the f150 coils are oblong shaped at the top and the BII are round at the top. The axle housing is too long for it to work without modifying it. I think it will be a pretty cool wheeler when I'm done adding the 8 inch lift the advantage i have is once it's done everything off of an f150 will fit my suspension. rear axles will be a pain in my butt I'm sure gonna have to move the leaf spring seats over and change the spring to the f150 leafs. and everything from the suspension up is for an 86 one way or another. whether it will ever be legal on the utah highways is another thing.
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ranger5.0
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Post by ranger5.0 »

You will have to move the rear spring perches in on the rear axle. You should beable to run the stock rear springs though. The weight of the truck didn't change just the axle weight. I have no doubt that the stockers will be able to handle the extra 50-100 pounds of the axle. Plus the ride will be nicer than using big old truck springs made to haul weight.
EBSteve just likes to watch me break things.:-)
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breefee_BII
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Post by breefee_BII »

:wtf: ok well today I started to put the driver side axle on and to no surprise to me the axle won't bot up to my mounts on the frame under the cross member when the two shafts go together. however I have the frame for the f150 and what do you know it bolts up on the front but again there is yep a 2 inch gap but it can work with some metal bushings or welding in some mods but once I put in the f150 brackets it bolted right up and you do have to drill a hole in the cross member
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breefee_BII
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Post by breefee_BII »

well it was alot of work and it works but I need to make some final adjustments on the ride height in the front one side is taller than the other and my camber is way off other than that I'm pretty much done for now I will probably trim the fenders later to fit the 31X10.50.15 already shown in the pics. these are the most recent of the pics and it's still not where i want it but it does drive down the road and turns a complete circle within an area of 35 feet. the stock ford blocks are gonna be gone the next chance i get to work on it. vaction is over now so back to the real work. any questions feel free to ask.
Attachments
tires stick out way past legal limit here in utah so it will be a trailered toy when I find one. turns like a dream almost too good probably not a freeway driver. Yes you're not seeing things that is my chevy go ahead and make your jokes i wouldn't expect
tires stick out way past legal limit here in utah so it will be a trailered toy when I find one. turns like a dream almost too good probably not a freeway driver. Yes you're not seeing things that is my chevy go ahead and make your jokes i wouldn't expect
ok this is actually where you have to mix the u joint sorry but it was fun tring to make it work if you use another trans you shouldn't have to worry about it but if you use the stock auto EOD i think then you will have to buy two ujoints to make it work
ok this is actually where you have to mix the u joint sorry but it was fun tring to make it work if you use another trans you shouldn't have to worry about it but if you use the stock auto EOD i think then you will have to buy two ujoints to make it work
junk yard driveline $75 custom made for a 87 BII with a 4 inch lift I got lucky with this one oh and spicer doesn't make a u joint so if you need to create one for the 8.8 let me know I have the two you have to mix to make it work fun stuff
junk yard driveline $75 custom made for a 87 BII with a 4 inch lift I got lucky with this one oh and spicer doesn't make a u joint so if you need to create one for the 8.8 let me know I have the two you have to mix to make it work fun stuff
this is the front this is 1 inch higher than the left side but I plan to fix that I thought i had it taken care of i guess my garage wasn't as level as I thought
this is the front this is 1 inch higher than the left side but I plan to fix that I thought i had it taken care of i guess my garage wasn't as level as I thought
the rear is too high compared to the front but lots of clearance this way those are 31's
the rear is too high compared to the front but lots of clearance this way those are 31's
Last edited by breefee_BII on Wed Aug 30, 2006 10:55 am, edited 2 times in total.
IF YOU GOT IT BREAK IT
breefee_BII
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Post by breefee_BII »

pic attempt #2 ok now i know it has to be under 1K to attatch thats good to know
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sitting in the driveway after test drive I plan to take the blocks out of the rear so it sits more level looks funny
sitting in the driveway after test drive I plan to take the blocks out of the rear so it sits more level looks funny
IMG_1141.jpg
better pic I think
better pic I think
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