BroncoII4x4.com

So what happens is I turn my car on and then it sounds normal then the rpms drop and the car starts to shake and then powers off, it will stay on if I press the gas though. I dont know if the timing might be off, i would like some guidance on how to fix it if its the timing. I read somewhere you have to unplug something on the distributor or something like that when adjusting the timing so the timing doesn't go wrong.

(I have the Haynes repair manual. I have also replaced the transmission so I can pretty much do anything )

Also when I put gas I smell a strong gas smell. Don't know if that would add to it and also when I turn it on and leave it in park the fumes coming from the car are horrible and strong. There isn't smoke from the exhaust but it smells super strong.

I've been reading that there might be a clog in the fuel lines because what they say is that when I press the gas more air passes thru helping the gas...I don't know I just know my milage is horrible and being a college student I need help!
Please help me

If the smell of gas is over powering, it is not a fuel problem. i am willing to bet that the exhaust is plugged. what state are you in and does it still have a cat on it. sorry. cat is catalytic converter

kirkland2887 wrote:If the smell of gas is over powering, it is not a fuel problem. i am willing to bet that the exhaust is plugged. what state are you in and does it still have a cat on it. sorry. cat is catalytic converter

I just got a new one put in( flo master ) like 4 months ago. I'm in California. I feel like when I floor it it goes somewhat normal but sputters but if I don't floor it, it barely moves. Might it be the oxygen sensors? I have horrible mileage!

I had a similar issue and ended up being the Air Charge Temp Sensor, about $20, on the passenger side of the upper intake manifold. Sensor was telling the engine it was below zero outside and the engine was guzzling gas to compensate, which also caused it to stutter and stall out when I first started it up and putting it into gear.

Simple quick cheap fix, might be worth a shot.

jefe wrote:I had a similar issue and ended up being the Air Charge Temp Sensor, about $20, on the passenger side of the upper intake manifold. Sensor was telling the engine it was below zero outside and the engine was guzzling gas to compensate, which also caused it to stutter and stall out when I first started it up and putting it into gear.

Simple quick cheap fix, might be worth a shot.

Awesome. Ill try that out today and let you know

jefe wrote:I had a similar issue and ended up being the Air Charge Temp Sensor, about $20, on the passenger side of the upper intake manifold. Sensor was telling the engine it was below zero outside and the engine was guzzling gas to compensate, which also caused it to stutter and stall out when I first started it up and putting it into gear.

Simple quick cheap fix, might be worth a shot.

So I bought the part and put it in. And it's a lot better but still a little sputtery

o2 sensor wouldn't cause a running issue

kirkland2887 wrote:o2 sensor wouldn't cause a running issue

Could the timing be off?

My 88 did the same thing, i drove it like that for about a year burning out starters before i found out it was the idl position sensor. 15 bucks

dime4evr wrote:My 88 did the same thing, i drove it like that for about a year burning out starters before i found out it was the idl position sensor. 15 bucks

do you mean the throttle position sensor?

dime4evr wrote:My 88 did the same thing, i drove it like that for about a year burning out starters before i found out it was the idl position sensor. 15 bucks

do you mean the throttle position sensor?

What about IACV valve?

jefe wrote:What about IACV valve?

ive replace the IACV
when i replaced the air control sensor it seemed to help.
ima replace the coolant temp sensor today and see how that goes.

You might check the fuel pressure. I had a bad regulator that was letting the fuel pressure get way too high and caused the same problem. The gas smell in the exhaust means its running rich. Btw the thing you need to unplug to adjust the timing is a small plastic box on the passengers side of the intake manifold right next to the fuel rail. It is simply a jumper on the end of a 2wire pigtail. Unplugging It turns off the electronic timing advance.

Well I found online a bronco ii 1990 4x4 xlt and Its for sale for 900. Hopefully I can buy his and move the good and parts over between them. I want to keep his cause mine has a salvaged title and his is clean so ill let u know how that goes. Thanks.