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if i put a 4 inch suspension lift on my 85 bronco II wit a 3 inch body do i need to get longer drivelines?

anything over 2 inches of suspension lift you should get custom drive shafts

Not disputing what 90redb2 said but I've had an 89 BII and an 87 BII both with 4"' suspension lifts and ran the stock drive lines front & rear with NO ISSUES.

Welding fool wrote:Not disputing what 90redb2 said but I've had an 89 BII and an 87 BII both with 4"' suspension lifts and ran the stock drive lines front & rear with NO ISSUES.

not even a shake/wobble when taking off??

im not talking from experience just from what ive read on web sites

Welding fool wrote:Not disputing what 90redb2 said but I've had an 89 BII and an 87 BII both with 4"' suspension lifts and ran the stock drive lines front & rear with NO ISSUES.

you runnin a double cardan in the rear?

Ranger Dave wrote:

Welding fool wrote:Not disputing what 90redb2 said but I've had an 89 BII and an 87 BII both with 4"' suspension lifts and ran the stock drive lines front & rear with NO ISSUES.

you runnin a double cardan in the rear?

Was on the 87 (it was on there when I bought it) up untill I sold it, the 89 had the single U joint style. Both were smooth even when in flex situations.

Welding fool wrote:

Ranger Dave wrote:

Welding fool wrote:Not disputing what 90redb2 said but I've had an 89 BII and an 87 BII both with 4"' suspension lifts and ran the stock drive lines front & rear with NO ISSUES.

you runnin a double cardan in the rear?

Was on the 87 (it was on there when I bought it) up untill I sold it, the 89 had the single U joint style. Both were smooth even when in flex situations.

i dont belive that for a minute, not with those little u-joints. all i did was put xplorer leafs in and had tago to a DC

you runnin a double cardan in the rear?[/quote]

Was on the 87 (it was on there when I bought it) up untill I sold it, the 89 had the single U joint style. Both were smooth even when in flex situations.[/quote]



i dont belive that for a minute, not with those little u-joints. all i did was put xplorer leafs in and had tago to a DC[/quote]

Well maybe your driveline angel wasn't correct, who knows but anyway I'm not asking "YOU" to believe me or anyone else. I just stated a "fact" thats all.

well, ide like to see your rear driveshaft,but i bet you dont have a camera.

those xplorer springs only gave about a 2in lift and need a DC. i installed a 4in suspension lift in another B2 using the STOCK DC and it didnt last 2 days(it binds up). so i did the xplorer shaft swap and that shaft has been in it for 4 yrs now

Ranger Dave wrote:well, ide like to see your rear driveshaft,but i bet you dont have a camera.

those xplorer springs only gave about a 2in lift and need a DC. i installed a 4in suspension lift in another B2 using the STOCK DC and it didnt last 2 days(it binds up). so i did the xplorer shaft swap and that shaft has been in it for 4 yrs now

Well "I bet" you're wrong I do have a camera and here's a pic that shows the drive line angle ( without any weight on the springs) mind you it does get better when the weight is on the springs. Your troubles (quiver, shaking, jumping) could have come from poor clutch, pressure plate, motor or trans mounts, bad U-joint or maybe the driver who knows for sure? But the U-joint that failed may have been bad already, although I do agree those are small U-joints and will not take a lot of abuse.

ide rather see the front joint

Ranger Dave wrote:ide rather see the front joint

thats what she said!

But you should be able to get a grasp on the front U-joint angle by looking at the drive shaft in this pic.

Old, dry or abused joints don't last long in even perfect situations but these never gave any problems. But this BII had a new clutch, pressure plate, TOB, pilot bearing and a resurfaced flywheel. All the mounts were in great shape to, I guess what I'm saying is some turds float and some sink you never know how its going to work out untill you give it a go.