BroncoII4x4.com

Hello. Newbie here. I just bought a 1988 B2 4x4 with 2.9 fi and i think i need to replace clutch. I goes in gear , starts to move a little, then just sits there. So i'm thinking new clutch kit. Probably wouldn't hurt. What i would like to know is there some where i could get the procedure to do so all in one place. I have read the haynes manual but when you read one section it tells you to go to another. It is all confusing. I have wanted a B2 for years and finally found one. any help would be greatly apprieciated. thanks

I have a good clutch for sale out of my 1987 b2 2.9

I am no longer needing it, I am putting a 289 in by B2. I live in WA so shipping might drive the cost up to about the same as a new one, but if I can help[ you out let me know.

a guy in tullahoma tenn. put mine in for 250 bucks cant beat that

if your wheelin than i would go with the duel friction Center Force clutch

OBXFHB wrote:if your wheelin than i would go with the duel friction Center Force clutch

ahh,i dont think so. they arent meent tado alot slippin. there more of a drag race clutch i beleive

Same truck I got bud. I did mine in the driveway with a 2-ton harbor freight jack. A few things the haynes manual kinda messed up on when I put a new one in. -->

no need to drain the fluid from the transfer case (not mine anyway.)

don't need to take the crossover pipe off. (These bolts withstood two minutes from a brand new out-of-the box dewalt impact gun, so I went around it)

I never jacked up the front of the vehicle, just the rear. (Do it if you can, I was short on jacks.)

The quick disconnect for the slave cylinder was tricky. I bought a little set from advance, but it didn't work.. Ended up using two screwdrivers on either side of the fitting.

DO replace the rear main oil seal like the book suggests. It's cheap, and you'll be right there...might as well.

If you're good with wrenches and have a decent tool set, it shouldn't be that bad. Get a friend to help if you can, but I did it alone.

People around ehre have answers, so ask questions.

Good luck.

so here i am reading the haynes manual and it asks for you to remove the converter inspection cover and disconnect the flywhweel and also to remove the converter to housing to cylinder block bolts and the adapter to converter housing bolt.......can someone please help me with pictures as to where everthing is at and the correct procedure to take the engine from the transission.......im pulling the engine out to get it rebuilt.....someone please tell me how to do it and hopefully with illustrations.....

This isn't exactly what you are looking for, but it might help a little, the second link will help you a bunch.
http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazin ... h_swap.htm
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_li ... clutch.htm
As for the clutch, if you are planning some extreme offroading, get the 4.0 clutch set up. I ran a stock 2.9 for the off roading I did for over 20 years and only put in one new one, that was another small one.

Ray

so you can put a 4.0 clutch in a 2.9 and it will be better?

Yes you can put a 10" clutch behind a 2.9, but, be aware that on some transmission bell housings, the pressure plate will hit the ribs inside. It's not a big deal, just requires a little modification of the ribs, grinding.

Ray

thanks for the tips hopefully all goes to plan......