Can't figure out why it won't run - Very stumped!!

[starsgoblue84]

So I bought a 1986 Ford Bronco II Eddie Bauer.

It ran that day I bought it, until my guy friend started messing with it. He was messing with the distributor cap and some other things. He didn't know what he was doing, but his friend, my mechanic thought he did. My mechanic couldn't come with me due to a family issue, in case you were wondering.
The distributor is good, my mechanic had to replace a part on it. We were told the fuel pump needed to be replaced, so we replaced both and ended up finding a hole in the gas tank, but it's fixed now, as in my mechanic knew how to fix it. We charged the battery since it's almost dead. We replaced the valve cover gaskets, because they were slipping or something like that and we replaced the spark plugs and wires.

The starter works and all that jazz and the alternator works as well. We're starting to think my guy friend, who doesn't know what he's doing, messed with wires, because we can't figure out why it won't run. The engine is good because it was replaced and stuff and it has low miles on it. The tranny is good, but that wouldn't have any reason towards why it won't start.

It acts like it's not getting fuel, but we checked the fuel injectors too and they're good.

Any ideas ????

[Buckin]

I had a problem somewhat like yours with my 88'. Will turn over but won't start. Try testing or replacing your rollover sensor. I wired around mine worked perfect after that.

[vabronconut]

ok you say your sure you have fuel right?

have you checked for spark at the plug wires?

[starsgoblue84]

I will tell my mechanic about the rollover sensor. He's just about ready to pull his hair out, well if he had any.

[starsgoblue84]

I already stated we replaced the spark plugs and wires.

My mechanic is smart enough to run tests on them to make sure they work. And I know he did, because I was there.

[vabronconut]

I already stated we replaced the spark plugs and wires.

My mechanic is smart enough to run tests on them to make sure they work. And I know he did, because I was there.

just trying to help but if you have fuel and spark then it will run. sensors or something electrical will cut the signal to the ignition thus no spark. fuel to cylinders with spark present will cause combustion......... so which of the two is missing?

[clem]

Replacing plugs and wires doesn't mean anything if you don't have voltage to them. The question Vabronconut asked was are you getting spark at the plug end. The ignition module, coil or rotor button may be bad. Also try lifting the distributor cap off and crank the engine just to be sure the cam isn't broke or the gear's not stripped. I understand this is frustrating but we don't know what your mechanic did or didn't do, we're just trying to help. Good luck and keep us posted as we all can learn something new.

[starsgoblue84]

And we are. It does start, but it won't stay running. That is the problem. We have narrowed it down to wiring and the computer. We have checked the distributor and replaced the ignition mod., the coil, and the rotor button. We have replaced alot of parts, just to be on the safe side since I only paid $400 for it, I feel better knowing theirs new parts on it.

[vabronconut]

And we are. It does start, but it won't stay running. That is the problem. We have narrowed it down to wiring and the computer. We have checked the distributor and replaced the ignition mod., the coil, and the rotor button. We have replaced alot of parts, just to be on the safe side since I only paid $400 for it, I feel better knowing theirs new parts on it.

it starts but won't stay running, try disconnecting the exhaust before the catylitic convertor before buying anything. make sure it has free exhaust flow. also this is something i would do is check for constant fuel flow at the rail. not just looking for pressure but for a constant stream of fuel. you can do this by putting a clear hose (bought at any hardware store for .50 cents) over the relief (or shradder) valve on the fuel rail and poking a pick in the hose to depress the core of the valve. this will tell you if there is blockage in the fuel system. yes i know you replaced allot of parts, but debris from a dirty gas tank will clog new parts in only minutes. this will also tell you if there is a problem in the wiring, pumps, or relays in the fuel system. with any combination of the problems above mentioned, enough fuel will still be pumped to the injectors for it to fire but will quit once the accumulated fuel has run out.

i hate spending money on parts unless i am damn sure what the problem is. a tune up always helps but if you are just throwing parts at it to see if it will work you are going to put more into the truck than its worth.

as far as your mechanic, im glad you have confidence in them but until you put the foot down on them they will continue to just throw parts at it rather than really take the time to trouble shoot it correctly. if he doesn't know how to trouble shoot something without trying new parts, get your truck the hell out of there !!!

just my 2 cents, if you got deep pockets then by all means stick with your way

[gsmeyersaz]

Check the TFI module, and the wires to the module, on the distributor. In the past Ford had a lot of problems with this module. You can rent a tester from your local parts store. If it needs replaced do some research and buy the best TFI module you can (it's worth a few extra bucks). If the TFI module and wires are OK, the problem is the pickup coil inside the distributor (you will need to remove the distributor to replace the pickup). If the engine backfires when attempting a start its the distributor itself.