SAS
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- Posts: 74
- Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2008 12:36 pm
- Location: OC, Oregon
SAS
so what exactly am i looking at for a SAS? where do i want to get my axles from and what do i need to do? i've been perusing forums for a while now and there isnt any step by step details any where.. any help?
in you look on the main page you will find a writeup. that should get you going in the right direction.
read that first then come beck and ask specific questions.
read that first then come beck and ask specific questions.
71 Bronco - twin sticked, full width, 2" lift, wristed arm, lots of rust...
http://www.catalystcycles.com
http://www.catalystcycles.com
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- Posts: 74
- Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2008 12:36 pm
- Location: OC, Oregon
so i need the axle out of an early bronco or full size? it mentions a 74 bronco and i only know b2's well so is that the early bronco? the springs he bought were for the early bronco and they fit fine? the control brackets i understand well enough. and the whole shock thing i didn't understand. was that for the future wristed arms? can i buy 4" lift shocks and bolt on to stock locals? or do i want to wrist my arms too and rebuild shock towers? sorry for the noob questions...
the early bronco axle is very close to the width of your stock suspension. the years are 66- 71 for the D30 and 71.5-77 for the D44
the full size axle will need to be narrowed or installed wide and will stick out of the fenders. the main years are late 60's and 70's 1/2 ton for the D44 and 3/4 ton (eight lug) for the 60. the 60 is leaf sprung so it will be completely differnt suspension system.
the springs fit to the solid axle because that is what they are made for and I think he altered the coil buckets a little to fit them at the top.
as for the shocks, I would build new towers and go ahead and build the wristed arm. in order to get the right shocks you need to flex the suspension to measure what you need. kinda like a min and max measurement. then order what you need
hope that helps...
the full size axle will need to be narrowed or installed wide and will stick out of the fenders. the main years are late 60's and 70's 1/2 ton for the D44 and 3/4 ton (eight lug) for the 60. the 60 is leaf sprung so it will be completely differnt suspension system.
the springs fit to the solid axle because that is what they are made for and I think he altered the coil buckets a little to fit them at the top.
as for the shocks, I would build new towers and go ahead and build the wristed arm. in order to get the right shocks you need to flex the suspension to measure what you need. kinda like a min and max measurement. then order what you need
hope that helps...
71 Bronco - twin sticked, full width, 2" lift, wristed arm, lots of rust...
http://www.catalystcycles.com
http://www.catalystcycles.com
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- Posts: 74
- Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2008 12:36 pm
- Location: OC, Oregon
considering those axles will probably be all the axle most people will ever need for there BII's I don't think $400 is too bad.
also with those axles you don't have to do any cutting to keep your truck 50 state legal. (meaning under your fenders)
those axles can also be found with stock 4.10 gears...
also with those axles you don't have to do any cutting to keep your truck 50 state legal. (meaning under your fenders)
those axles can also be found with stock 4.10 gears...
71 Bronco - twin sticked, full width, 2" lift, wristed arm, lots of rust...
http://www.catalystcycles.com
http://www.catalystcycles.com
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- Posts: 74
- Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2008 12:36 pm
- Location: OC, Oregon
I have only messed with a D44 in my old BII, but I would say it depends on how hard you wheel. the D30 out of an xj,zj, and any other jeep will also be a little more work then the EB D44. simply because they are 4 link from the factory and you will either have to deal with fabing links or grind off the brackets and convert to some other type of system. the only advantage...if you would call it that would be it has the same lug pattern as the rear. BUT do you realy want to keep the 7.5?
I guess you could swap to a 8.8 out of an exploder...
I guess you could swap to a 8.8 out of an exploder...
71 Bronco - twin sticked, full width, 2" lift, wristed arm, lots of rust...
http://www.catalystcycles.com
http://www.catalystcycles.com
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- Posts: 74
- Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2008 12:36 pm
- Location: OC, Oregon
If all your doing is exploring then a SAS might not be needed. You have to decide what type of wheeling you are going to do and then go from there. If you are only wheel in mild stuff then you could just upgrade to D35 and 8.8 from an explorer and be done with it. The only thing you would have to do is move the spring perches from the bottom to the top for the leaf springs.
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- Posts: 74
- Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2008 12:36 pm
- Location: OC, Oregon
There are some rangers (I think) with 4:10s but those are narrower then the explorer axels. THe front Dana35 are a direct bolt in and same lug pattern.
I am sure that there are some Explorers out there with factory 4:10s but I dont know how common they are. If they do have them, I would guess it would be standard explorers not autos.
I am sure that there are some Explorers out there with factory 4:10s but I dont know how common they are. If they do have them, I would guess it would be standard explorers not autos.