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body lift
Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 6:59 am
by camo bronco2
how high can you go on a home made body lift .
i went 4 inches with the stock body cushins in top of the 4 inch lift ..
it doesnt seem to bind up the steering . but i havnt driven it yet .
i am droping radiator today so that fan wont rub .[ im making custom brackets ]
has anybody ever done this more than 3 inches .
what else am i going to have to modify.
also how big can i go on tires with out changing the gears [ i would like to put 35 or 38sunder it . or should i stay in the 31 to 33 range . i also will add bushwacker cut out flares when t get the cash .. everything is all stock now .
Posted: Wed Dec 12, 2007 11:47 am
by onewyr
4" body is a bit much for a body lift. The state of Virginia it isn't legal to go more than 3" on body. you may get bigger tire under it but thats it you gained no frame clearance all you did was raise your COG these trucks are already unstable and you made it even more unstable. If money is an issue go get some explorer leafs out of a junkyard and buy some 2" coil spring spacers with that combo I am clearing 32x11.50x15 A/T's but i still needed to trim some fender but atleast i have more ground clearance I also installed explorer axles under my truck which widened the stance and it is much more stable as far as gears and tire size I am running 32" tires and 3.73 gears and I need to go up someone chime in here but 35's and 38's are a bit much on stock axles. do yourself a big favor and ask the guys on this site as well as other rbv sites as many questions as you can before you do a mod like a 4" body lift. you can save yourself a lot of time and money by asking questions and use the search button and listening to everyone what these guys say is not the "LAW" but they have for the most part tried things out so most of the figuring has been done
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Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 11:41 am
by camo bronco2
thanx for the helpfull hints .
ill be reading alot here . although the lift was already made and installed .
its what i had laying around in scrap metal .
all frame mounts were rusted out bad .[ so i layed the square stock on its side and welded it in ]
and droped the radiator .
yes youre right money is an issue keeping in mind that this vehicle should have been a scraper or a parts doner .it was picked up for the kids to learn to drive in the back yard on .[ it was cheaper than a quad ] .
steering is not binding [ so far ]
but i havnt had it out on the road or highway yet . just around the property that i live on .
how much money for explorer parts that you speak of .[ ball park]
or could i possibly get full size axls under it 1 day .
or i just might use it as a golf cart in the yard .
gotta see how it runs first .
not sure if its nothing but a money pit.
but thanks for all of the advise and help.
Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 11:51 am
by onewyr
as far as explorer parts I paid $350 for a 91 explorer that lost over drive the axles are a direct bolt in except for the rear you gotta cut the spring perches off of the axle and convert it to spring over
Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 11:53 am
by onewyr
I would highly recomend pulling the 4" lift and getting some new body mounts i am parting out a BroncoII and could pull the bodymounts if need be let me know if you are interested
Posted: Thu Dec 13, 2007 7:31 pm
by ranger5.0
The steering may not be binding but the rag joint at the steering box will fail. I went through a few with my 3 inch body lift. The e-brake cable must be pulled pretty tight. There isn't much shifter left poking through the floor either. I would get rid of the body lift and just cut out your fenders if you are on a budget.
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Posted: Fri Dec 21, 2007 11:32 am
by camo bronco2
thanx guys
drove it yesterday ..
it seems ok .. i didnt notice that mich ov a difference if any other than shifter is low .
now i have to rebuild front axl .. bad wheel wobble on drivers side . and bad clunking noise coming from passenger side.. im guessing u joint .