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Well, My Broncs rear driveshaft broke into a whole lot of peices. I think Its because when the previous owner put the lift on it, The driveshaft did not have the length, and It must have put to much strees on it. It had to have alot if it binded like that. Pics soon. Atleast It could be driven home in 4.

What do you think caused it? Is there a better solution than extending a driveshaft from the Salvage yard?

Thanks

Do you have the u-joint type or CV(ball and socket) drive shaft?

I HAD u-joint. The one coming from the transpher case is totaly shattered.

is your 6" lift a body lift? 6"BL is what is showing in your signature. if it is all body lift then the lift would not cause it because their is no change in the suspension. you might have just blew one. was their any indication of one comming apart on you before it went? also what were you doing when it went?

When I was running stock stuff, I had to change u-joints every couple years with a 4" suspension lift. A 6" lift would probably really take it's toll on u-joints, depending on how it's driven.

While you likely do need a longer driveshaft, it wouldn't help the operating angle of the u-joints. I think you probably just wore it out.

Measure up the FRONT driveshaft from an early model Explorer. It is about 1.5" longer than a stock 84 T/K 5-speed rear shaft, has bigger U-joints, and takes very little fabrication to bolt in. Solved my driveshaft grenading problems...

I HAD a stock one, -- came apart when I just got mine going well. I am currently running a set of blocks in the rear and the spring wrap is a problem. I had a custom shaft made for me at a local shop to compensate for the lifted length and it runs much better.
To get rid of the blocks I'm going to use the leafspring perches from an explorer. They drop the eye of the spring to down below the frame instead of beside it. These will also reposition the leafs under the frame rails and not be a bolt in unless you want to move the spring perches on your axle. But since I'm swapping in an 8.8 explorer axle it is a piece of cake to do then.

I used a rearched "sloder spring, with about 2 1/2 inch of extra arch from stock, then a set of Bell-Tech lowering shackles for a Chebby truck(upside down for their application) and ended up with 5 3/4 of spring lift, then like an idjit I stuck the 4 in blocks back in too, looks very nasty and ugly. I have to take a run start and jump to get in the drivers seat and I'm 6 foot! Center of fender measures 41 inches to ground now, way too high.


Waay high, blocks are coming out tomorrow.

Thanks for the replys, I had a custom one made from a freind. I havent been able to test it out yet because i'm letting my new valve cover gaskets seat.

rmyers2051-are you running the 2.9 with the axle swaps? I am interested in doing the same conversion in mine and wanded to know how it changed the ride on the street and off road performance.

thanks yall!

MXjunk127 wrote:

rmyers2051-are you running the 2.9 with the axle swaps? I am interested in doing the same conversion in mine and wanded to know how it changed the ride on the street and off road performance.

thanks yall!

Yes, stock 2.9, 4.10 gears, rides better on the road than it did stock, stops waaay better. Have no sway bars so I am a bit more leary about slammin into tight curves at speed.

Sweet! thanks for the info, I guess your underpowered?

It won't burn the tires off or even bark them good in a tight turn(thats what my PSD xcab does best), but it will run down the highway at legal speeds (+50%) any time you want and still do 18 or so for fuel mileage.

Neat o, Thanks again!

Now,

Wanted:

D44 Front

Ford 9" rear!

Blue_coyote wrote:Measure up the FRONT driveshaft from an early model Explorer. It is about 1.5" longer than a stock 84 T/K 5-speed rear shaft, has bigger U-joints, and takes very little fabrication to bolt in. Solved my driveshaft grenading problems...

I'd like more details on this swap... got any information you want to share? I need to replace my b2 rear shaft really soon.