exploder springs

Flatlander · Post by **Flatlander** » Fri Nov 24, 2006 10:53 pm

Picked up a d35, 8.8, springs and a couple seats from the yard today. Question is: I've seen that you should keep the bolts from the springs on the explorer, are they not the same? Won't be putting anything on untill after christmas but some of them got cut, by the way a recip saw saves a lot of time while laying in the mud. Just wondering what I need to get together before swap day.....

Can anyone give me a line on the spring perches, I can make the shock mounts but would rather buy the perches.

Also will the cv driveshaft pos bolt up to the 8.8 for now?

By the way, got a '89 5 speed.

Bob Myers · Post by **Bob Myers** » Sat Nov 25, 2006 6:11 am

SPring perches are about $12/15 on ebay. I bought new bolts from Ford for my spring swap, for a BroncoII. They are the same diameter, (14mm) as BroncoII so I cannot see anyreason why those would be more desireable over BroncoII bolts.

Ranger Dave · Post by **Ranger Dave** » Sun Nov 26, 2006 5:26 am

why buy new spring pads?? reuse the old ones

Bob Myers · Post by **Bob Myers** » Sun Nov 26, 2006 4:09 pm

It would take about half hour to 45 minutes to remove and salvage the old ones. New ones are less than one fourth what I make per hour. I can buy new, install and be done in less time than you can remove old ones to reuse.

Ranger Dave · Post by **Ranger Dave** » Sun Nov 26, 2006 5:29 pm

what ever

jwillie · Post by **jwillie** » Sun Nov 26, 2006 6:22 pm

I didn't have a cv style drive shaft when i put in the 8.8, but the flange on the 7.5 did not match the flange on the 8.8. I was fortunate enough to have the drive line from the ranger that matched the 8.8, also the u-joints on the 2 drivelines happen to match, so we just took the flange off of the ranger driveline and put it on the bronco driveline. We had to take apart the u-joints to do this.

Bob Myers · Post by **Bob Myers** » Sun Nov 26, 2006 6:51 pm

Ranger Dave wrote:what ever

Mature thought needed here.

Phillippi · Post by **Phillippi** » Sun Nov 26, 2006 11:20 pm

Bob Myers wrote:
Ranger Dave wrote:what ever
Mature thought needed here.

LOL that sounds like a response my 7yr daughter would make.. Too funny.

Ranger Dave · Post by **Ranger Dave** » Mon Nov 27, 2006 5:27 am

New ones are less than one fourth what I make per hour.

who cares what you make

Joel H · Post by **Joel H** » Mon Nov 27, 2006 10:26 am

Depends how quick you want them. I torched mine off of a 9" housing. then cut the rest of the tube off with a grinder. It took no more than 15 Min to get it all done.

Now if you have time and can wait for new ones that is the better route.

Re-using U-bolts is a bad idea. They streach over time. Once torqued they are done for. Get new ones they are about $9 each at any spring shop. They can make then to what you need. Short for only spring or longer if you want a block. Explorer axle tubes are 3 1/4" Dia and the b2/ranger ones are 3" dia. The 9" I got the purches and spring plates from was a 3 1/4" dia.

I believe the ranger/b2 U-bolts are made of 1/2" rod. where as the ones I got were 9/16" dia.

Bob Myers · Post by **Bob Myers** » Mon Nov 27, 2006 4:32 pm

Ranger Dave wrote:New ones are less than one fourth what I make per hour.

who cares what you make

Obviously you do or there wouldn't be such a need for you to continue posting your useles noninformation.

Flatlander · Post by **Flatlander** » Tue Nov 28, 2006 3:23 pm

I got the drvieshaft from the donor just to make sure and now I'm glad I did.
I did find the perches on ebay for under 10 dollars, at that price I'd would rather go with the new ones. To each his own. Found the shock mounts too but I feel comfortable making those and could us the fab practice.

Bob Myers · Post by **Bob Myers** » Wed Nov 29, 2006 4:31 am

If you are not already familiar with the alignment procedure; aim the rear flange towards the Tcase, at normal ride height. I have done both ujoint and cv setups this way with no vibration and no unusual wearing of joints.

Ranger Dave · Post by **Ranger Dave** » Wed Nov 29, 2006 5:18 am

aim the rear flange towards the Tcase

i thought it would go towards the rear bumpa. you are a smart fella

Joel H · Post by **Joel H** » Wed Nov 29, 2006 6:58 am

Bob Myers wrote:If you are not already familiar with the alignment procedure; aim the rear flange towards the Tcase, at normal ride height. I have done both ujoint and cv setups this way with no vibration and no unusual wearing of joints.

That is interesting. I was always told that if you run a double cardian shaft to have the pinion pointed at the t-case and if you run a single/single or a CV to have the pinion on the same plane as the t-case output.

I may try this out. I have a Jeep shaft that is single/single. I'll have to get my double cardian cut down for the doubler. So in the mean time if I can run the Jeep shaft I should be alright.