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D35 swap
Posted: Tue Nov 14, 2006 12:55 pm
by Limited
Just got some questions about swaping a D28 to a D35. Will I beable to use my lift from a D28? I am using lift coils in the front.
Posted: Tue Nov 14, 2006 1:51 pm
by Joel H
Yes
Posted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 7:59 am
by Limited
I found a setup.
What should I offer this guy? What do you think its worth?
"Got one here. complete with steering rods radius arms. Its got 4.10s in it and its complete huh to hub calipers you name it. Ill even throw in the drive shaft and w.e ttb parts I got. Make an offer... Can even take the 4" lift coils with it. And the steering stabilizer is on it too. Ill get some pics in a little bit...."
Posted: Thu Nov 16, 2006 1:22 pm
by Limited
how do I tell what gears I have in the rear axle?
Posted: Fri Nov 17, 2006 8:42 pm
by ranger5.0
If it doesn't have a tag on one of the cover bolts... then pull the cover and look on the ring gear for a 4 digit number like 41.10 (4:10) or 41.11 (3:73). The big number is the count of teeth on the ring gear and the smaller is of the pinion. Most gears are marked in this fashion. Sometimes they come up with different tooth count to acheive the same gear ratio's. Just divide the ring gear count with the pinion count.
TT
Posted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 1:12 pm
by Limited
So I got my 8.8 in, now to do my D28 to D35 swap. I have a D35 now
My only question here is will I need to shorten my drive shaft?
I will be using the same drive shaft that was on the D28, it will bolt on to the diff, but not sure if the D35 Diff is "longer" from the front of the diff to the drive shaft.
Anyone?
Posted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 1:38 pm
by Hair
your going to have to shorten your driveshaft about a inch and a half
Just a couple tidbits from when I did my swap.
Posted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 7:36 pm
by DZK007
I did have issues with the original lift bracket next to the diffy (for passenger beam mount). My lift used a "drop plate" for the original bracket and it hit the diffy. After replacing the diffy because of a large hole in the casting, I got a Superlift brand bracket and it just clears with the 4 inch set up I now have.
I'm also running 4:56 gears and a Lockrite locker with 31's. I'm going to see if I can lengthen my radius arms to relocate the front axle forward a bit and then run 33's. I think this will run better.......
Other than my bracket problem, my swap was perfect and I didn't have to make any adjustments to my driveshaft length. Keep in mind that I'm running an '84 and I slid my engine and tranny as far back (rearward) as possible.
Posted: Fri Jan 05, 2007 11:17 am
by Limited
thanks for the heads up Ill make sure that does not happen....
Its strange I have a few people telling my that they did not need anything done to there d-shaft, than others saying 1.5"
On a site called The Ranger Station, it says I will need to take out 1.5 but they were swaping a D28 to a D35 in a V8 Ranger... so not the same
Posted: Fri Feb 02, 2007 2:29 pm
by Limited
okay I have started my swap,
got the D28 out, and D35 some what in. I have the beams up, coils in, shocks on, break lines, where I am running to a problem in, I left the steering arms on from the Explorer on the D35 and it lines up with the pitman arm but its not at the right angle. Should I just use the steering rods from the D28? Also I cannot get my radius arms center in the bracket. Is there a trick to this? Or should I take the brackets down than put it together than bolt it back up to the frame?
Here are some pics, and NO its not on the tires.... Those are there to make me feel a little more safe, there is 6ton jack stands under the frame just behind the radius arm brackets.
Also I did not need to shorten my drive shaft at all. It fits right in!
oh yeah and my new MSD Coil

Posted: Fri Feb 02, 2007 8:26 pm
by Phillippi
Yes the easiest would be to bolt the radius arms to the radius arm bracket and then bolt it to the frame. Keep up the good work.
Posted: Fri Feb 09, 2007 9:38 am
by Limited