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CV Driveshaft Problem - HELP!
Posted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 12:35 pm
by Horitexan
I'm thinking about buying a '89 Bronco II from a guy that works for me; the main problem with it seems to be the Rear CV Driveshaft. I haven't had a chance to mess with it but what's obvious is that the rubber boot on the rear end of the driveshaft is torn and the bearings are now shot. I've looked at his Haynes manual and IT SAYS that the CV Driveshaft can NOT be serviced and MUST be replaced. IS THIS TRUE and, if so, DOES THIS ALSO APPLY TO THE RUBBER BOOT AND BEARINGS?
If I do need to replace the entire CV Driveshaft to fix this problem:
A. Can I replace it with a used one or do I need to buy a new one for some reason?
B. Can I get some suggestions on places to look OTHER than local junkyards, Ebay and the parts section of these forums? Are there any good online part suppliers that y'all know about?
C. What should I expect to pay for a used, or new, Rear CV Driveshaft?
I really appreciate any help or davice y'all can give me- it'll help me decide whether or not to buy the vehicle.
Thanks!
Nick
Austin, TX
Posted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 2:28 pm
by DBrown
I had this same problem with my 86 when I lifted it. I blew 2 in 6mo. I went to jamesduff.com and got a different style CV shaft with 3 u joints in it for around $250. it is a must in my opinion to anyone who plans to have there BII for any amount of time.
Posted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 4:21 pm
by 84_4x4
yes the drive shaft has to be replaced a cv joint itself cannot be serviced and would be more expencive to replace joint than the entire drive shaft.
driveshaft for bronco II
Posted: Thu Nov 09, 2006 5:30 pm
by wa0gls
I have and 86 and an 89. One standard, one auto. replaced the driveshaft for the 86 for 195 dollars plus shipping from arizona driveshafts dot com. worked great.
Posted: Fri Nov 10, 2006 1:32 pm
by Horitexan
I've been advised to just replace the CV-style driveshaft with a a new, standard type of driveshaft- I was told it would be much stronger and last longer for a LOT less money. This sounds like a better solution, to me, than buying the more expensive CV driveshaft.
Any opinions about this?
What is the POINT/advantage of a CV driveshaft over a more simple/typical driveshaft- is there any real performance difference?
Nick
Posted: Fri Nov 10, 2006 2:57 pm
by FatMan
get a double cardon shaft and forget it... stronger and you probably get better angles with it. im pretty sure thats what DBrown was referring too.
Posted: Fri Nov 10, 2006 8:17 pm
by 84_4x4
cv drive shaftes are a thing of the past i dont even like cv axles becuase there always needing replaced ditch it
Posted: Sat Nov 11, 2006 5:22 am
by wa0gls
fatman is right. the one I got from az dl.com was not cv. they make all sorts of custom shafts, but have standards in stock. cost me 212 dollars including shipping
Posted: Sun Nov 12, 2006 6:42 am
by DBrown
get a double cardon shaft and forget it... stronger and you probably get better angles with it. im pretty sure thats what DBrown was referring too.
that is exactly what I was saying. the stock "CV" axle style shafts are junk. they destroy them selves when wheeling and are expencive to replace. with the u joint style shafts the most expence you have is around $15 for a new ujoint every once in a while.
Posted: Sun Nov 12, 2006 7:36 am
by Bob Myers
Check ebay, I bought a double cardan shaft that was a "service part" from spicer for a BroncoII, it has the double joint on end and single joint on the other. First one I found was new and fit my 88 when it was stock, gave like 75 or so for it. Second one I bought for a spare, and still have it was not even welded on one end so it would fit a dozen different vehicles, and I only gave 50 for it.
Posted: Tue Nov 21, 2006 12:59 pm
by Eric C.
REPLACE IT. I blew the CV style going through the center median in Wyoming during a snow storm. Limped to the job went to NAPA and they ordered a complete one for like $85.00 and because they showed 2 differnt lengths they ordered both and I only had to pay for one.
Posted: Wed Nov 22, 2006 8:14 pm
by ranger5.0
I would look in the history on the web site and look for the driveshaft solution. Once I did the fullsize u-joints without the dual cardon. I never had a driveshaft probelm. I just went back to work on the D28 axles.