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I'm putting a clutch in my stock Bronco II . V6. I have the exhaust and driveline and transfer case out but the two top bolts holding the tranny to the engine are a bear to get at. The upper right one I have not been able to get on even with a looooong extension and socket. I'm about to cut a hole in the floorboard to get to it. Anyone have a suggestion or trick to make this easier? Also have not been able to dissconnect the hyd. line to the clutch. I have a fork like tool that came with the clutch kit but it doesn't seem to be correct. Help?

Thanks, Al.

To disconnect the clutch line, there is a small roll pin that you need to punch out. Then the line just pulls out.

I don't recall haveing a problem getting the bellhousing bolts. I seem to remember getting at them from above. If not, a couple extensions and a swivel should work. There's no reason to hack up your floor, that's for sure.

I can't see any roll pin. I'm trying to disconnect it on the lower end at the bellhousing. This is an internal slave cylinder if that makes a difference. It is supposed to be a quick disconnect where you somehow push something in and then it releases and you can pull the line loose.

I forgot about the internal slaves..... not sure how those come apart. Can you just disconnect at the master cylinder, then figure it out when it's out?

Maybe, I'll look tommorrow. Thanks for the help so far.

Al.

The internal slave has a pin that slides in right above the bleeder screw. I have always found it easier to let the trans hang as low as possible with out the trans mount attached and reached them with a couple of long 1/2" extentions since they always seem to be fairly tight. I have also used a 12mm/14mm combination box end wrench that was approx. 12" long and reach from the top. but then you will have to jack the motor higher in the back.

I got those two bolts from the top both times I did it

I think hes dealing with a M5OD being a '90. The M5OD uses a different slave and line than the FMs and Tks. On the FMs there is a pin that keeps the line in the slave and all you do is pull it and out it comes. On the mazdas, there is a little white plastic collar that you have to push in evenly and then at the same time pull out on the line and it should come free. If the plastic collar is gone, you either have to find a new little collar at a wrecking yard or just cut the line and get a new one. I find the easiest is to use a fuel line or a/c line disconnect tool the same diameter to push the coller in because you have to push it evenly to disconnect all the fingers on it. For the upper bolts, it helps to jack up the tranny with the mount undone and then just lay out across the engine with your wrench and get at the bolts sliding your hand back behind the distributor. Pulling the distributor makes it way easier but make sure you mark it where it was when you pulled it.

Thank you all. I got the bolt out by letting the tranny down some after the crossmember came out. The line is the type with the plastic collar. Ended up breaking the connector betwwen it and the slave. Bought a new master cylinder and line to go wth the new slave cylinder. Drilled out the exhaust manifold bolt that broke off even though I heated it and tried every trick I knew. Everthing is ready to go back together and I'm now remembering that I don't like laying on a creeper fiddling around with a trouble light that flickers and has a cord that is always under a creeper wheel and evry wrench is just out of reach. I've lost several pounds getting out and going back under after forgetting to get something I didn't know I'd need.

I sure hope this thing works well when I get it back together.

Good to hear its coming along...3 pieces of advice for later:

1) You dont need to remove the T-case to drop the tranny, it might make it a little harder but it helps a bit with leverage to tip the whole assembly up or down.

2) Tip the whole assembly up or down with a floor jack on the end of the tranny or T-case. This will make it easier to get at the hard to reach bolts. Point it down for the bottom 4 and then tip it way up for the top 2.

3) Try using a camping/hiking style headlamp instead of a drop light. They are always pointed where you are looking and throw out good light...and the batteries last for a LONG time if you get the LED lamp.

Thanks for the advice! Hadn't thought about a headlamp, I'll go pick one up.

Oooo yeah, look like a coal miner with the headlamp, but they are worth the chuckles.

I bought one and I can tell you that in my more than 30 years of working in the shop this is one of the MOST useful tools I've ever purchased. I got one that has LED bulbs and doesn't extend out from the head very much so its not bumping into stuff in close quarters. No more looking for a place to hook a trouble light, flickering bulbs, cord getting caught under the creeper wheels, needing a third hand to hold it and work, etc.

It is fantastic!

Al.