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madmark anything could be done but the fullsize rad will not cool properly.
1. the rad is to tall it will sit lower than the engine unless you cut away from the hood (dont think that would be a good option).
2. your running a 460 my 351c barely allow's me any space for the smaller cougar rad. definetly wont be able to run a mechanical fan. electric fan is a good option it you can find a good set of pusher's cuz i dont think you'll have the room for puller's.

if you have to run that fullsize rad i would rear mount it with elecrtic fan's. this can be done. i have a buddy that's running a D-50 hybrid (basically Dogdes version of a CHEVY Luv) on a 70's Ram Charger frame with a 440. he had to run a rear mounted 4 core rad with electric fan's, and it cool's perfect. if you do decide to runn rear mounted rad i would look into getting a 3 or 4 core cross flow rad to do this mod. just my $.02 but that's what makes all of use unique and i like to see the different wy's that we build our chit. im looking forward to see'n your 460 bII.
by the way what kinda wheel'n do ya do?

I need to go and measure, I set the rad. in the other day and it looked like it was high enough to still cool and not hit the hood. I planned to bolt the rad to the inside of the core suport and mount the fans inside the core support. the only thing that was in the way was the power steering hose. so I might try to rerought that to the back of the pump. dont get me wrong, it is close but I still have about an inch between the rad and the water pump.

D-diesel most of the wheeling I do is at the Badlands offroad park in northeren In.I have a nephew that has a 79 cj5 and he lives 3 miles from the park.It is mostly trails with some creeks we like to use as roads,theres really a good varitiy of stuff.The place used to be a gravel pit and then as it got more use they started buying up fram and woodlands around it.I think there is almost 900 acres now.It cost 20.00 for the truck and driver and 5.00 for each passenger.Then 50 miles south of me in Dugger IN is the new state run Redbrush park,it is 700 acres and is mainly follows a powerline with some steep and long hills with creeks in the bottoms.At Redbrush if your truck is not plated to drive on the road then you have to buy a state ohv permit its 30.00 then its 10.00 for driver and 5.00 per passenger.All of the fees are per day,both place open at 8 am and close 6 pm.
Well I been pricing parts to do the 460,if I gotta pull it out I'm just do it right maybe even bore it not sure yet.Right now I'm just trying to get the cash to buy the 85 b2 and figure out a way to get here.Its like 45 miles from here and the engine has been pulled and is laying in the cargo area.She has been trying to sell it for a long time,but she wants 250.00 for it.I called a car hauler and he wants 150.00 to to haul it.I found an 84 b2 that runs but smokes really bad at a junkyard but he wont take any less than 900.00,says he can get more than that by parting it out.The bodies on both are pretty good shape,the 84 might be a little nicer,the 85 is an xlt.They both have c-5 trannys and they both have manul t-cases.Cant decide what to do.Guess I will think on it some more,I tried to hurry on the 78 and spent a lot of money and now I got a truck that knocks to bad to run so I am gona take my time on this.Once bitten twice shy as the song said LOL.Dbrown how far is it to Bowling Green from Indy?I am in Bloomington In about 50 miles south of Indy.Maybe I could come down some time and check yours out.I here down there in the Bluegrass state you all got some good places to wheel.

D-diesel if I did the body swap and use the 78 core support the rad will stay right where it is now and before it started knocking I didnt have any cooling problems,that another reason I wanted to use the 78 core support.That rad has less than 1000 miles on it.Now if I find that the 460 is gona take 1000.00 to rebuild then I may do a 302 and axle swap on the b2.I bought a lot of new parts on the 78 heres a list.Rad,brake booster,m/c,calipers,rotors,wheel cylinders,cam,lifters,timing chain,and gears double roller,rear sump pan and oil pump,headers,all the bushings in the front end,coil springs,red top batt,starter,thats all I can think of right now without getting into my recipts.You see what I mean about spending a lot of money and still no drivable truck.I thought my wife was gona kill me when it blew up,in the parking lot where she works.I tell ya when it started knocking I just shut her down and started crying.When it ran it was awsome,the differance between the 351 and the 460 was like nite and day.

hey madmark first let me say i would'nt pay $900.00 to a yard for nothing. with that said i'd get the one for $250.00. as far as the '78 core support being fab'd to worl with the bII i think you can make it work with the right tool's. i not able to give you a definete answer becuz i did'nt go that route. the only thing i know for sure is no matter whayt core support you use the radiator is gonna sit low becuz of the way the bII body sit's. you can probably get the rad to set between the frame just fine but then your blocking some of the vains from cool air, and the rad will be sittin glower than the engine if i remember correctly. that's why i was recommending rear mounting the rad. i understand about the wife being up set balieve me i rolled my fullsize on it's side sunday. i had to bring my DAILY DRIVER fullsize home with a cr@p load of body damage from a trip that was not suppose to be to crazy.

Bowling Green is about 1 hour north of Nashville, TN. I am not sure how far you are but you are more then welcome to come down and check it out if you can. I have started to mount the cab this morning but I am waiting a little while so I don't wake the neighbors. I would definatly go with the cheaper BII. even after you pay the tow bill you are getting out way cheaper.

D-Diesel, that sux! did you loose any glass or did it just tip on its side?

I haven't had to explain that yet, just what the roof is doing in the drive when she walked around back and I still had the sawzaw in my hands

Sounds like both you guys got the same look I got from the wife,not fun LOL.Dbrown that sound like a 6 or 7 hour drive for me one way.I dont have the time or the money for that long of trip right now ,maybe in a couple of weeks.D-diesel that rear mount on the rad may be the way I will have to go.That new rad is a 3 core down flow though so I dont know if it will work very well,maybe if I can find an elec.fan that moves air like a tornado.Do you know of any write ups on rear mount?Seems like it would take a lot of plumbing and a hell of a good water pump to move the fliud that far.I wll look around on the net and do some reading.If I do the rear mount seems like there will be a lot more noise in the cab,maybe turn up the radio LOL.As far as the tools needed to fab on that core support I have a buddy that has all the welders and torchs and I have all the die grinders and such,so that wont be a problem.What we both would like to have is a tubing bender,man they are high dollar item.Do you guys have lots of pics of your projects?Would you mind sending them to me so I can get a better idea of whats involved.My yahoo id is msgtmadmark.Email would take forever to download and I think there might be a limit on file size.Thanx for all the info and ideas you guys have givin me so far.

well, I worked all day........

this is what I got done:

body mounted
cut hole for trany and transfercase shifter
installed both shifters
hooked up speedo cable
wired the tail lights

here is a pic of the mounts:

here is a few pics of the tranny......I put it in 1st and 3rd and they both cleared everything.

I think I might try to flip the leaf hanger to fix the problem with the rear being to long before I put the coils in. with the hanger in the rear fliped it will only be around 4.5" past the rear of the tailgate. I might just flip it and if I don't like it I will just yank it and start all over.

Man that mount looks sweet!I take it you are going to keep the stock full size wheel base.Since you said that the spring hanger was behind the tail gate,am I understanding that right?I think D-diesel said something about moving his rear axle forward 10 inchs or something like that.What I was thinking of doing was to set the firewall as close as possible to the tranny and move the rear axle to keep the tires in the wheel well.porabaly have to cut the front fenders from the highest part of the opening streight forward like the old flat fender jeeps.I really dont want to try to stretch the b2 body.And I guess you could open up the rear part of the rear wheel well a little.Looking good so far man.I wish I already had the b2 bought so I could spend the cash to come down and look at what you have done and bring my tape measure of course,that is if you dont care if I copy what you did LOL.Save me a lot of trial and error LOL.

yeah, he moved his forward. I don't really want to do that because I want to keep the angles and the wheel base. I pushed mine so close to the motor that the firewall is barely tuching the valve cover where it hangs off the head. I just planing on chopping out what I need to so I don't smash the sheet metal when I flex out. the original plan was to dovetail front and back but I am going to get everything going first to see how I like it. your more then welcome to come and see what I have going. just let me know so I'll be here. I am planning on using the stock 351M rad. which should be the same one you are running now. when I get to that part I will make sure you get everything.

madmark Posted: Tue Sep 21, 2004 8:46 am Post subject:

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D-diesel that rear mount on the rad may be the way I will have to go.That new rad is a 3 core down flow though so I dont know if it will work very well,maybe if I can find an elec.fan that moves air like a tornado.Do you know of any write ups on rear mount?Seems like it would take a lot of plumbing and a hell of a good water pump to move the fliud that far.I wll look around on the net and do some reading.If I do the rear mount seems like there will be a lot more noise in the cab,maybe turn up the radio LOL.

there is a member on the board Broncoo who has a rear mounted rad in the tailgate of his b2. might be a ble to find something over at TRS ,or PBB. i dont know much about doing this mod. i just know it what my buddy had to do when he built his big block rig. im pretty sure that it's not hard.

madmark Posted: Tue Sep 21, 2004 8:46 am Post subject:

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What we both would like to have is a tubing bender,man they are high dollar item.Do you guys have lots of pics of your projects?Would you mind sending them to me so I can get a better idea of whats involved.My yahoo id is msgtmadmark.

tubing binder's are pretty spendy me and 3 buddy's went in together to buy one and it is a great piece of equipment. i need to save up for all the other stuff like welder and such. if you look at my sig line i think i have a link to mu super ford site with pic's of my b2.

nice work Db when we gonna get to see the whole thing. oh madmark i moved the axle forward 5" the wheel base is about 99".

well, to be honest........it looks the same. it is kinda bad that I worked on it all yesterday and the looks of it hasen't changed. but thats ok I know it's getting closer. I tried to come up with a way to put in the round head lights and I think I have it figured out. but I will probably wait untill I have the rear together and it is running. I am going to start in the rear and work my way forward, so the fuel cell, battery, OBA, and rear axles placement is next. I have a friend that is working on getting me a deal on some 38's and 15x12 steelies........so I am not jumping up and down for tires yet.