BroncoII4x4.com

I agree that they are probably heavier......but when you look at the $$$ issue I can assure you his wallet is probably heavier for doing it that way, and the arms are beefier. I am not going to extend my arms, I started wristing today, but if I were going to go the extended rought that is what I would do because of the $$$ issue. the extended arms are high, no matter where you buy from so doing it your self is the only thing I would look at.

no one is say'n do what SquattyD did we were just try'n to show you alternative routes. his arm's are heavy and i ask why not use duff's and the price of duff's was his reply. i think his arm's would out last duff's anyway but that's the price you pay for strength sometimes. i would'nt have believed that those radius arm's would bend or brake but the can. like i was say'n you dont have to do what he did but i think the extension's from rockcrusher are nice and i might get a set for my arm's just to get rid of the drop bracket's.

i just critisizing those small as hyme joint hes got on such a heavy arm . the one on the duff arm is twise the size. by the way thanks for all the help you guys have given me. heres a quote on about what i spent.
as soon as my springs and track bar show up the whole thing will be in , in a one day swap. my arm brackets are ont the chasis the only thing im wondering is where to put the adj track bar mount???? not quite sure yet.

* used 78' front end $300.00
* new bearings and seals $ 80.00
* 2 u joints - $ 30.00
* paint $40 .00
* welded front spiders$ damn near nothing
* wristed arm $ 1.50 per pound for T-1 grade steel. made it myself
* super flex coils $ 140.00 plus shipping
* adj. track bar $ 170.00 +shipping
* bushings $45.00
* new bolts for everything $55.00
* having the new bad ass front end in just in time for mudd fest 2005 in monroe, wa. " PRISELESS"
GRAND TOTAL: about $900.00 not bad

you will probably have to figure that out after you get the axle under the rig.
once you find out where the axle is going to be you can get a better idea of where it needs to be. just remeber that the axle needs to be centered and the angle needs to be close to the steering angle. that angle dosen't need to be real extreme. did you get a bracket with your track bar or are you fabing your own?

in all honesty you are still doing good as far as price goes. I am looking forward to seeing pic's.

no didnt get a a mount im probably going to make my own but i have no clue as to where the best place would be to put it.
if you guys have any ideas let me now. or even better if you now where i can look at some pics of it already done on a full size 80'-96' bronco. then i will know where exactly to put it. thats how i found out exactly where to put my arm mounts.

the one on my 79 frame is a few inches in front of my coil bucket. it is also my shock mount. I have to alter it and move that to the rear on mine. then fab a new one. I would get the axle under there and then try to line it up the best you could to make it as parallel to the axle as possible. you could take alot of measurements now and save some time later. your radius arm brackets need to be at the same location on both sides of the frame or you will have problems. I would recomend attaching your coils and makeing sure the placement is correct so you are not tracking funny. your axle should be in about the same location as the TTB so in theory you could take the difference of the length of the radius arms and locate the new brackets that far back from the original brackets. just go by the old theory of measure twice cut once.......in other words think about it a little before you just put it together.

yeh i've thought about it alot and i know where to place my arm mounts they are already on. if my math is correct (witch it should be i aced math all through high school and college, you give me a math madical equasion and i'll solve it)( not sure how to spell that word, equasion) they are right where they need to be for the axle to be in the right spot. ive taken alot of measurements. i just dont know if i sould put my track bar mount directly on the frame or on the cross member . i thought if a planned ahead i could do it in a few hours no problem. i am a great fabricator, its what i do for a living. i work in a machine shope (actually i own it ),fabing parts an't a prob. but i can see that i have to get the front end under the truck before i'll know how easy it will go in . so it will be longer .im a pretty organized , so with all my planning ahead it should go smoothly. also im thinking of adding a 1.5 inch spacer under my coil bucket just because when the coils get used for a while the front seems to sit lower than the rear, what do you think? any ways thanxs again for all your help. with out you it probably would have taken alot longer to get this conversion done. (even for a bronco 2 web site). only because i want a bronco 2 body on my bronco.

personaly I would stay away from the spacer. to me it just seems like a weak link. if you make sure that you get the right spring for your truck it will work out fine. when you order your coils tell them what motor you run and anything else that might make a difference and they should be able to get it right for you.

10-4

i agree with DBrown on the coil spacers . we need pic's though

yeh i agree too. i think if the coils break in and ends up making my front sag a little then it would be much better to slide the upper bucket to a lower position. it would be more reliable. and not hard to do. now on to the rear end. i want to lose the add a leaf, and the over load spring in the spring pack and run just stock springs. how, without adding stupid blocks, can i get the lift i need. ive herd something about fliping the shackles and add a revolver shackle, but i haven't seen it done. any thoughts? is it the same on b2s? i dont want coils in the rear.

well, the beautiful thing about these trucks is that springs are around $100 so they are not to bad to replace. if you go with JBG then they run $140 but are still reasonable. as far as the rear you can flip the shackel and get about 1.5-2" in the rear, just make sure your shackle is at a good angle or it will ride like ass. I run a full length add a leaf.......while mine has not been flexed out yet they say that if you are going to run one that is the one to run. it allows the leaf pack to flex, or to not bund up the pack from a stiff small leaf. when I put mine in I went ahead and removed the overload leaf. that thing was massive. all in all I think I ended up with around 5" in the rear with the shackle flip and a 3" add a leaf........ how it performs we will probably see very soon.

I would like to see pics also......

i would use the stocker spring's you have in the rear and run a Sky- Manufacture hanger (out ogf Oregon). you can also run a F-250 hanger.

http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthr ... ackle+flip

http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthr ... ackle+flip

there is a crap load of info at FSB if you want to know more i can dig it up or just go over and search shackle flip. i think it's the way to go for fullsize bronco's gives 4"+ of lift depending on what else you do and how many leaf's and such. good luck

your link doesnt work

hmmm that's strange work's for me. well if you go to FSB and search key word's (shackle flip). you'll see what im talking about there are some good pic's and lot's of good info on the shackle flip.