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Posted: Fri Nov 12, 2004 7:33 pm
by DBrown
I got my lincoln for $225 from lowes, I think it's a pretty good deal. the only thing I have problems welding is sheet metal. I would like to get a wire welder for that. just curious, but why do you want to put the leafs under the frame?

Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2004 12:46 am
by FatMan
i have'nt made up my mind which type of welder to get im pretty good with a mig. never arc weld before. try'd to tig but that take some skill (im not to good with the 2 hand, 1 foot colaberation). i like the mig (220)becuz you can weld damn near anything.

i was thinking of doing a 3/4 eliptical suspension on the rear.

Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2004 3:46 pm
by Phillippi
Well after welding all that I have with a 220 stick, I am glad I got it when I did. I can do alot with it. I do hope that in the next couple of years I can get me a mig 220 for cleaner welds and for the ease of use.

Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2004 6:38 pm
by DBrown
i was thinking of doing a 3/4 eliptical suspension on the rear.
thats awsome! have you done much research yet?

mig is nice, the hardest part is the setup. tig isn't to bad, but like you said using both hands and the peddle control is tough. it really burns you up when you contaminate the bead.

Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2004 2:50 am
by FatMan
i've done a little research. me and a friend were thinking of doing it on his zuki but we ran out of time before he had to go on deployment. i dont see any real issues just have to figure out from were am i gonna get the 1/2 leaf and what kind of shackle im gonna use. i also have to find the right size u-bolts to mount the half leaf. it wont be in the work's for awhile though. i want to get my rig on the trail's and have some fun before i do any more mod's. i just need to finish steering and bumper's. a couple of little thing's like bleed brakes, run breather line, double flear tranny line's, mount tailgate, and find some kind of rollbar ( untill i can build a cage).

Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2004 7:56 am
by DBrown
I think you can cut any leaf to work. I have a set of 68 F100 11 leaf packs to play with when I get into it that far. I have looked around and it looks good, but I just can't make up my mind what I want to try. the coils on the rear might be cool too. I can get a set of buckets off the 68 if I need them. I would like to try the 3 link rear before I go 3/4 eliptical, but I will probably wheel the piss out of the leafs in the rear before I start modifiing it any more. not being able to go throw some mud has got me pretty upset right now. I just want to get it on the road by christmas.

Posted: Mon Nov 22, 2004 4:25 pm
by FatMan
hey DBrown when you mounted the rear shackle up side down you used the holes toward the front of the rig or did you start over and drill all 4 new holes? im gonna try and get this done this weekend. i dont have a good enough drill to drill the holes so im just going to use the fowar 2 hole to mock it up and see how she look's for now.

Posted: Mon Nov 22, 2004 5:29 pm
by DBrown
I just flipped it and used the front two holes.....then drilled the front two after I mounted them. it worked well but your shackle angle will be off. so you will need to move the front hanger forward like 2 1/2" it all works out after the flip if you move it forward and add a 3" add a leaf. the driveshaft is happy from what I can tell so far.

Posted: Mon Nov 22, 2004 11:04 pm
by FatMan
cant afford to give up more wheel base so im hoping to be able to move the rear hanger to where i'll need it to work. i also want to use the stock bronco leaves so im hoping to get the 2" you did just by flipping the shackle. you think it's posible? i wont be sure if it'll work until wednesday when i go to my mom's. thank's

Posted: Tue Nov 23, 2004 7:46 am
by DBrown
I can pretty much promise you that you will get about 1.5"-2" of lift in the rear just by doing the flip. if that will level you out then I would stick to that. the reason I went with the add a leaf is the FS leafs flex well and I just needed something to give a little more ride height to level out what I plan to run in the front. also the full length is promissed to flex better then the short one.........and for $70 you cant argue too much. total I think I will have about 5" in the rear and 4" in the front. I plan to run the Broncograveyard coils.....they promise on there website that "they give the best flex you will ever have out of your bronco" so I plan to put them to the test.

I deffinatly want pic's when you get done! I know you moved your rear more then I did, so I'd like to see where you ended up at.

Posted: Mon Nov 29, 2004 9:29 pm
by DBrown
got my radius arms back, now if I can get threw the next 2 weeks of school without missing a dealine and move I might get to actualy get to work on the truck :laugh:

sorry it's not much of an update.....

Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2005 12:04 pm
by DBrown
ok, I got an up date.

I am starting the steering next. went to the pick and pull today and got my steering junk.

in the pic you will see the 79 steering arm on the top and the steering arm from a 90 ranger on the bottom:

Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2005 12:06 pm
by DBrown
in this pic you will see how I am going to connect them......kinda:

Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2005 12:13 pm
by DBrown
basicly I am planning on sleaving the two pieces together. drilling and running a bolt threw both ends on the sleaves then welding them at the joint for double the strength. this should give me exactly the same thing that the $225 piece will except the fact that you can replace the joints and it will be a little weaker......but I have never heard some one tell me that they broke one of these pieces unless they were worn out. got the 90 ranger piece for $20. so expecting under $30 for bolts and everything.

Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2005 9:05 pm
by FatMan
how did you get the rag joint off? didyou cut it? i might have to invest in this keep us posted on how it works' out. now that i think about it that shouls be just like mine except i used the rag joint. i'll have to look at it again.