Clutch Replacement

OffroadBEAR · Post by **OffroadBEAR** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 2:54 pm

Wow, I found a transmission for $250, its in a yard out in the middle of nowhere, but its worth the more-than-2-hour drive to save $350 on a transmission which will probably go out again in another 4 years or so. Most places around me want $600 or more for the mitsu tranny. anyway, my question is: I want to replace the clutch when I replace the tranny just to be safe, so, what is a good clutch for a replacement and where can I get it? I am reluctant to get an autozone clutch, but I don't know. thanks.

Paul

DBrown · Post by **DBrown** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 4:09 pm

I went with one with the life time warrenty from autozone. that way if it sucks you can get another one. I know the parts guys pretty well there though so I can just about get away with murder.

OffroadBEAR · Post by **OffroadBEAR** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 4:51 pm

thanks for the reply. I thought reman clutches were crap but if you're confident enough in it to use one, I guess it wouldn't be a big deal. Would it stand up to offroad abuse very well. I am planning to maybe do a D44/9in swap this summer since the junkyard I found has parts for uber-cheap (I called back to have the tranny held for me till I can get it this weekend and it turns out its only $200

) so I could probably find cheap axles.

Where could I find a Luk clutch?

Hair · Post by **Hair** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 5:56 pm

Centerforce!!!!!!!!!!

OffroadBEAR · Post by **OffroadBEAR** » Thu Jan 05, 2006 9:39 pm

Centerforce sounds great but I am not really willing to put in a clutch set thats worth more than the tranny. The pressure plate alone is $125 and you have to buy the disc seperately which is another $75 (prices approximate from memory, I looked them up earlier today on 4wheelparts.com). Plus I think you have to buy the bearings and alignment arbor seperately too. Unless you know where I might be able to pick one up cheaper, that would be nice. Do any parts stores carry them? Is there a website besides 4wheelparts.com where I can go? Anyway, thanks a lot!

Paul

DBrown · Post by **DBrown** » Fri Jan 06, 2006 5:52 am

well, I don't think ford realy thought out the ranger/BII clutch/flywheel, it's just not that big. none that I have ever seen have held up well unless you just DD it. I can tell you I had almost no problems out of my autozone clutch untill I put the 4.0L in it. and then I only realy had problems on steep hill climbs. it is all realy in how well you know your truck and staying off the clutch peddle. the most important thing I think is to get the drive line locked before you start a steep climb. so in short if you have a stock drive train....you will be fine.

OffroadBEAR · Post by **OffroadBEAR** » Fri Jan 06, 2006 1:48 pm

Yeah, I have a stock drivetrain, but hopefully I will not later on this year (D44/9in). Thanks for the advise. I have never had any problems with the clutches I have had, infact, I have towed a few cars with my BII and a car dolly , one of which weighed more than the BII.

unless you just DD it.

What does that mean?

Paul

ranger5.0 · Post by **ranger5.0** » Fri Jan 06, 2006 7:51 pm

I have found that if you just buy the Centerforce Stage one Pressure Plate, and then buy a clutch disc and a throwout bearing of your choose yopu are better of in the long run. The pressure plate makes all the difference and you can buy it separetly. Well worth the money in a little clutch system that the r10/BII come with.

DBrown · Post by **DBrown** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 10:25 am

daily drive.

OffroadBEAR · Post by **OffroadBEAR** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 6:25 pm

Cool. What disk should I use? Thanks for the help.

How do you seperate the T/O bearing from the slave cylinder?
Does the flywheel have a pilot bearing?

I am going to replace the T/O bearing but probably not the pilot bearing (if it has one, it only squeeked when I pushed the clutch in).

Sorry for all the questions, but I just got my transmission today, I paid 200 for it, which is 1/3 of what most places in the city want (I couldn't find a mazda). So, I will probably be doing the job this week (no school). The truck it came off of had a bad rear main seal leak on the engine, the bellhousing inside is nasty, but the rest of the transmission is cool. I even got some manual T-case linkage attached to it for when I decide to swap to a 1350 manual shift. I am gonna find a rebuild kit for the mitsu and teach myself how to rebuild manual trannys with the old one. Anyway, thanks a lot!

Paul

ranger5.0 · Post by **ranger5.0** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 9:32 pm

The disk that Centerforce gives you is a factory ford unit. The Ford Dealership in my area gets its replacement parts from Napa. But I am sure any good quality make that you are comfortable with will do.

OffroadBEAR · Post by **OffroadBEAR** » Sun Jan 08, 2006 4:50 pm

Well, autozone sells Luk clutch sets, but I might go to napa for a clutch kit, I haven't heard any bad things about napa parts (I have had plenty of problems with autozone and o'reillys parts though). Anyone know which is better? Also, where would I get the transmission pan gasket, the gasket between the t-case and the adapter, and the bellhousing to transmission gasket? Thanks.

Paul

Post by **Nobody** » Mon Jan 09, 2006 6:31 am

I would't recommend an aftermarket clutch. If you are burning up clutches, you'd be better off saving that extra money for some gears.

I've always been pretty happy with Napa stuff. They sell reman and new... for a clutch, I'd probably go with new.

Napa also gives a decent discount to AAA members. My AAA pretty much pays for itself in Napa discounts.

OffroadBEAR · Post by **OffroadBEAR** » Mon Jan 09, 2006 2:53 pm

Its not that I am burning up clutches, its that I am preparing for a possible swap. Will an OEM clutch hold up to say explorer axles and 33s or 35s with 4.56 or 4.88 gears? I am looking to do a D35/8.8 swap instead since they are more readily available than a D44 and I do a LOT of road driving, so I want to keep it smooth riding for now until I retire it from road duty. I just want something I won't have to replace too soon. Where would I get those gaskets I mentioned? I didn't see them on any of the parts store's websites. Anyway way, thanks for the help.

Paul

Post by **Nobody** » Mon Jan 09, 2006 3:50 pm

It's not really your clutch that you should be worried about. I see no reason it won't hold up as well as the rest of your light duty components, tranny, driveshaft, etc... You clutch has nothing to do with the axle you run either. Lower gears in the new axles will help. I wheeled with a stock motor and axle for 8 years or so, it's not like it will blow up the first time you go wheelin.

You'll be time and money ahead if you do a solid axle swap. My bronco runs down the freeway just fine. New years day I drove over 2 hours, hammered the ship out of my bronco all day, and drove 2 hours home. There's nothing unreliable or unsafe about a solid axle. Don't waste time looking for an EB44, just get a full width axle and have it cut down. Your Dana 28 will hold up to plenty of wheelin while you collect parts. Dana 28 parts are cheap easy to get too.

Fact is... TTB Broncos can't keep up with the SAS broncos.

dunno about the gaskets....tranny shops should be able to hook you up though....or just RTV it.