My son and I are interested in building up a Bronco II and we were told by a friend not to get one because they plaqued with problems. We own a 88 Ranger two wheel drive with a 2.9 engine and a 5 speed and we have 220,000 miles on it and still going. I found the 2.9 to be good engine. Any input would be appreciated. The old bronco is what I would really like to have but they are hard to find or out of my price range.
Thank you, Warren
bronco ii problems
The 2.9L isn’t the most powerful engine around, nor is it the most fuel efficient, but if you keep it cool it should last a long time. It is pretty common to swap in a larger radiator (early Explorer auto tranny application) to prevent overheating and subsequent cracked heads.
The Bronco 2 trannies are a problem. The earliest B2’s had an available C5, which is apparently pretty much equivalent to the C4 in the early Broncos. But the later autos (A4LD) are very problematic. The manuals aren’t much better (at least the Mitsubishi transmissions). The Mazda transmissions found in later Rangers aren’t too bad in terms durability in the light rigs, and are often swapped into the B2’s.
One of the chief advantages in swapping in a V8 (generally a 302/5L) in my opinion is the availability of much stouter transmissions. I’m running the stock 2.9 and Mitsu 5-speed in my ’88, and although I haven’t really ever needed for more horsepower for the trails (I’d love to have it for the drive to the trail), I get the sneaking suspicion that the tranny could give up the ghost on me at any time.
The Dana 28 front end is in almost all 4WD B2’s, and is by all accounts weak. The easiest fix is to swap in a Dana 35 TTB front from a Ranger or early Explorer, if your going to stick with 33” or maybe 35” tires. It is substantially stronger than the Dana 28, but your still stuck with all of the twin traction beam issues (then again many people love the TTB) and lousy wheel bearings. Swapping in a solid Dana 30, 44, 60 or whatever is also often done. A solid axle swap is definitely more involved that a lift kit, but not necessarily by all that much.
I swapped in a Dana 44 (sourced from a ’77 Bronco) and slightly upgraded the shafts, and haven’t managed to break a front shaft yet with 37’s and frequent locker engagement. This may be in part due to my anemic 2.9.
As far as a platform to build on, I can’t really knock it. The Jeep guys I’m running with, most aren’t running Jeep axles, and many aren’t even running Jeep powertrains. Early Toyotas might make a better out of the box trail rig platform, but even they are getting increasingly pricey and rusty.
Bronco 2 replacement parts (either from a B2 or early Ranger) are very much available in salvage yards. The Ranger/B2 platform enjoys only a minute fraction of the after market support that the Jeep, Toyota, or Early Bronco gets.
So I guess, it depends on how you plan to use it, and how much you plan to build it up.
I’d love an Early Bronco myself, but they tend to be way spendy, or complete rust-buckets.
The Bronco 2 trannies are a problem. The earliest B2’s had an available C5, which is apparently pretty much equivalent to the C4 in the early Broncos. But the later autos (A4LD) are very problematic. The manuals aren’t much better (at least the Mitsubishi transmissions). The Mazda transmissions found in later Rangers aren’t too bad in terms durability in the light rigs, and are often swapped into the B2’s.
One of the chief advantages in swapping in a V8 (generally a 302/5L) in my opinion is the availability of much stouter transmissions. I’m running the stock 2.9 and Mitsu 5-speed in my ’88, and although I haven’t really ever needed for more horsepower for the trails (I’d love to have it for the drive to the trail), I get the sneaking suspicion that the tranny could give up the ghost on me at any time.
The Dana 28 front end is in almost all 4WD B2’s, and is by all accounts weak. The easiest fix is to swap in a Dana 35 TTB front from a Ranger or early Explorer, if your going to stick with 33” or maybe 35” tires. It is substantially stronger than the Dana 28, but your still stuck with all of the twin traction beam issues (then again many people love the TTB) and lousy wheel bearings. Swapping in a solid Dana 30, 44, 60 or whatever is also often done. A solid axle swap is definitely more involved that a lift kit, but not necessarily by all that much.
I swapped in a Dana 44 (sourced from a ’77 Bronco) and slightly upgraded the shafts, and haven’t managed to break a front shaft yet with 37’s and frequent locker engagement. This may be in part due to my anemic 2.9.
As far as a platform to build on, I can’t really knock it. The Jeep guys I’m running with, most aren’t running Jeep axles, and many aren’t even running Jeep powertrains. Early Toyotas might make a better out of the box trail rig platform, but even they are getting increasingly pricey and rusty.
Bronco 2 replacement parts (either from a B2 or early Ranger) are very much available in salvage yards. The Ranger/B2 platform enjoys only a minute fraction of the after market support that the Jeep, Toyota, or Early Bronco gets.
So I guess, it depends on how you plan to use it, and how much you plan to build it up.
I’d love an Early Bronco myself, but they tend to be way spendy, or complete rust-buckets.
1988 B2
d44/9"
tired 2.9L
d44/9"
tired 2.9L
Out of the box Bronco II's are pretty decent 4 wheelers. If you want more, they are decent platform to build on.
You can run 31's pretty reliably with the dana 28 front end. If you get lucky and find one of the 1990 models with dana 35 front end, then you can run 33's. Beyond that and you'll be pushing the limits of the ford 7.5" rear end. You can run 33's on the dana 28, but you'll start breaking axles and wearing out wheel bearings. Dana 35 is definately preferred, which if you can't find one already in Bronco II, you can swap easly swap in from an exploder or ranger.
Ultimately, I recommend a dana 44 straight axle. You'll be time and money ahead to do it from the get go. It's really not a difficult swap, and there is plenty of help to get you there. It will save you from purchasing a $$$$$ lift kit too. Then can run up to 38's pretty reliably. You can feel a little more comfortable about spending money on gears and locker too.
The 1990 models also have a better transfercase because they don't have that funky internal slip yoke.
If you want more power, a 4.0L from a ranger or exploder is almost a direct swap. A 5.0L V8 swap is even better, and opens the door to some great transmissions.
As mentioned above, none of the transmissions are very good. Fortunately, parts are plentiful and cheap. If you loose a tranny, don't rebuild it, just find a used one to drop in. Odds are you'll get quite a few years out of a tranny.
As long as you don't overheat the engine, you really don't have much too worry about. I'd recommend staying away from the 84-85 2.8L which are carbuerated.
I own both a Bronco II and an Early Bronco. While the classic lines of the early bronco can't be beat, they are not without their own problems. Many of them need power steering, power brakes, disc brakes, engine, axle and transmission upgrades. You'll pay dearly for the ones that already have all the good stuff.
You can run 31's pretty reliably with the dana 28 front end. If you get lucky and find one of the 1990 models with dana 35 front end, then you can run 33's. Beyond that and you'll be pushing the limits of the ford 7.5" rear end. You can run 33's on the dana 28, but you'll start breaking axles and wearing out wheel bearings. Dana 35 is definately preferred, which if you can't find one already in Bronco II, you can swap easly swap in from an exploder or ranger.
Ultimately, I recommend a dana 44 straight axle. You'll be time and money ahead to do it from the get go. It's really not a difficult swap, and there is plenty of help to get you there. It will save you from purchasing a $$$$$ lift kit too. Then can run up to 38's pretty reliably. You can feel a little more comfortable about spending money on gears and locker too.
The 1990 models also have a better transfercase because they don't have that funky internal slip yoke.
If you want more power, a 4.0L from a ranger or exploder is almost a direct swap. A 5.0L V8 swap is even better, and opens the door to some great transmissions.
As mentioned above, none of the transmissions are very good. Fortunately, parts are plentiful and cheap. If you loose a tranny, don't rebuild it, just find a used one to drop in. Odds are you'll get quite a few years out of a tranny.
As long as you don't overheat the engine, you really don't have much too worry about. I'd recommend staying away from the 84-85 2.8L which are carbuerated.
I own both a Bronco II and an Early Bronco. While the classic lines of the early bronco can't be beat, they are not without their own problems. Many of them need power steering, power brakes, disc brakes, engine, axle and transmission upgrades. You'll pay dearly for the ones that already have all the good stuff.
I owned 2 different BII's and they are good to play with. any truck you will look at in stock form has its weak points. with the BII it seems to be the tranny and the front end. but that stuff can be fixed/upgraded just like you would have to do to any other truck. while I have gone to an EB I will probably go and find another BII at some time to play with. if I decide to do another BII it will be a more clean build with the top staying on. I will probably do a D35 truck with a 4.0L and a M50D manual. the TTB has its problems with flex but if you do mild wheeling and know how to use it, it can be pretty decent. I think the biggest thing to remeber is to stick with a quality lift kit to get the performance you are looking for, if you stay independent.
71 Bronco - twin sticked, full width, 2" lift, wristed arm, lots of rust...
http://www.catalystcycles.com
http://www.catalystcycles.com
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OffroadBEAR
- Posts: 95
- Joined: Mon Apr 19, 2004 3:27 pm
- Location: Oklahoma City, OK
the above posts are right, the weak points are the tranny and the front end. Make sure that when you buy (if you buy a BII) that you listen real good for driveline noises. and don't buy one with the auto trans. My friend had two of these trucks both with autos, he got them for cheap, but he had to replace/rebuild the trans in both (one ran for a while and then crapped out before the tranny job). All the ones with sticks are alright, but the weak-ass mitsubishi FM146 will give out sometime or another, but you will get a lot of use out of it before it goes, enough to decide what kind of swap you want. I really can't say anything about the axles though since mine is stock, I have neither the time or money to lift mine or buy tires or gears, the only problems I have had are a bad front left u-joint and a stripped rear CV driveshaft. I can go 40 in the snow and have no traction loss, and its pretty good offroad even though its stock. My engine is fine, its got got like 100,000 on it and just has noisy lifters. My gas mileage is not as good as it should be, but thats because I am missing part of my exhaust. Just install an axuillary temp gage to watch for overheating. It has its ticks, but of the 120k miles this truck has, I have put half of them on, and they have been some very hard and some very easy miles. Its a great truck, probably the best $1700 I have ever spent. Those that say they are a shit can usually drive jeeps :) (I never found jeeps appealing anyway). Good luck, and if anything goes wrong, or you just want to talk about it, this is the place to be for Bronco II support.
Paul
Paul
88 BII XLT 2.9/5spd/4x4 Lemans 31x10.5s
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offroadbuilder
- Posts: 5
- Joined: Sat Dec 17, 2005 7:44 pm
- Location: ca
THANK YOU
thank you for all your help every one that posted a reply
thank you again warren
thank you again warren
For he will give his angels charge concerning you, To gaurd you in all you ways.
PSALM 91:11
PSALM 91:11