Need some help with DS conversion

vicsbronco · Post by **vicsbronco** » Wed Dec 14, 2005 6:00 am

Hello, guys!
After weeks of unsuccesfull no-start (see my 84 B2 won't start)I started DS conversion. Couple questions:

I have an AC and one of the wires from it runs to the main wire harness that's laying on the passenger fender now. Do I just disconnect it?

I think I cut wires from oil sender unit along with others. Where is this unit located and where do I splice them too?

Vaccum lines from smog pump- remove and plug them? PCV valve- just lay that hose behind the engine and plug it?

I'm cross posting with other site to get more info- need to get it done tonight- it will be snowing again.

Thanks a lot.

Post by **Nobody** » Wed Dec 14, 2005 6:51 am

There was no need to cut any wires. The computer harness is separate from the guages/ac/lights etc. I just pulled the harness apart and separated the wires.

All the computer wires will work their way back to the computer on the passenger side kick panel.

The guages all go to the square plug on the drivers side firewall. The duraspark module should plug into the the round plug on the drivers side firewall. In some cases it's necessary to swap a couple duraspark wires, but try it first.

All the vacuum lines can be removed as well as the smog pump. You can cut the crossover tube on the exhaust manifold and pinch it off and fold it over.

The PCV stuff must stay.

vicsbronco · Post by **vicsbronco** » Wed Dec 14, 2005 11:37 am

Thanks! Will do.
I guess I have to find oil pressure sender unit, wires to it and... well, got to look it in diagrams.

I got all parts exept distributor cap adapter- should be here tommorrow.

Post by **Nobody** » Wed Dec 14, 2005 12:06 pm

The oil pressure sending unit is on the drivers side toward the front of the motor by the fuel pump. Its a round canister looking thing.

vicsbronco · Post by **vicsbronco** » Wed Dec 14, 2005 12:24 pm

Thanks!
I assume wires from it going to the square plug, just need to figure out which to which.

Connectors on the DS ignition are round ones. What is the best way to connect wires to it? ( I don't have a OEM harness)

Man, engine bay looks so cleaner and more accesable! I like it!

Post by **Nobody** » Wed Dec 14, 2005 3:52 pm

vicsbronco wrote:Thanks!
I assume wires from it going to the square plug, just need to figure out which to which.

It's only one wire going to the OP sending unit. On my bronco it's white with a red line. You should get yourself a chilton manual, they have schematics with wire colors.

vicsbronco wrote: Connectors on the DS ignition are round ones. What is the best way to connect wires to it? ( I don't have a OEM harness)

Which harness are you talking about? From the duraspark module to the distributor? If so, then I'd recommend getting an OEM harness. You can get by using standard spade connectors, but that's hack.

The duraspark module should plug right in to your BII harness.

vicsbronco · Post by **vicsbronco** » Sat Dec 17, 2005 4:26 pm

Thanks for all your help!.
DS conversion finished, you can kill an elaphant with that spark, but... no start. Plugs are dry. Fuel pump? But why it doesn't even catch with starting fluid? Now gas tank started leaking again.

What a luck! Bought this truck, invested almost $500 with no results.
Having a hard time to decide what to do- sell for parts or keep going.

DBrown · Post by **DBrown** » Sat Dec 17, 2005 4:42 pm

if you are getting spark to the plugs then it almost has to be a fuel problem. since you sprayed starter fluid in to try to start I would say you might have to dig deeper.

one thing before you go on though, did you try to fill the boul with gas and start?

did you go get a manual?

if you are 100% positive you are getting spark, and 100% fuel is in there I would go to adjusting the valves. on the 2.8L you have to do this everyonce in a while. also that motor will chatter a little just because it is a solid lift cam. so if it chatters a little it's ok. this is the reason I hated my 2.8L in my old 84.

remember when you adjust the valves......do it right. if done wrong it can bend pushrods, grind down cams and destroy lifters if you get them to tight. follow the instructions in the manual 100% do not try to take short cuts.

Post by **Nobody** » Sat Dec 17, 2005 5:35 pm

vicsbronco wrote:Thanks for all your help!.
DS conversion finished, you can kill an elaphant with that spark, but... no start. Plugs are dry. Fuel pump? But why it doesn't even catch with starting fluid? Now gas tank started leaking again.

What a luck! Bought this truck, invested almost $500 with no results.
Having a hard time to decide what to do- sell for parts or keep going.

When you installed the duraspark dizzy, did you find TDC on the #1 cylinder? Sure you were on the compression stroke. I got a hunch you are probably 180* out.

You know the engine runs, so you know you have compression. You say you have good spark, and you've given it a shot of starting fluid.....that pretty much only leaves ignition timing. There's a small chance that it's something with the ignition switch. Also if you wired the durspark module wrong, it's going to throw your timing off, possibly enough that it won't start.

vicsbronco · Post by **vicsbronco** » Sun Dec 18, 2005 4:11 pm

Ignition switch is new. I have a Hayness manual, but don't know where else to look.
Compression is 120 on all 6 cylinders, I took fuel line off, crank the engine, fuel is going , so pump is working. I didn't double check on 180 degree stuff, but during distributor installation I found DTC on #1 and made sure rotor was pointing to plug #1- it's kinda 10-15 degrees to the left if you looking from the front of the engine.

About valves- that might be a problem or maybe timing gears? When I bought it, engine was running okay and I hate to touch the valves for now.
As for timing gears- with valve cover off and distributor cap off I see rotor spinning and valves moving. Does that mean gears are okay?

Thanks for all your help!

Post by **Nobody** » Sun Dec 18, 2005 4:25 pm

Your distributor is probably 180* out

vicsbronco · Post by **vicsbronco** » Sun Dec 18, 2005 4:28 pm

Where (aproximately) rotor should point with cylinder #1 at DTC ?

Post by **Nobody** » Sun Dec 18, 2005 4:32 pm

At TDC, it should point at the #1 cylinder. Your problem is you are likely at TDC of the exhaust stroke.

Which cylinder are you calling #1?

vicsbronco · Post by **vicsbronco** » Sun Dec 18, 2005 4:46 pm

Cyl. #1 is first on the left (looking towards windshield).

My rotor was pointing at #3 when I was installing distributor. Dumb head!

I used ratchet to turn the main pulley, removed spark plug at #1 and used a long screwdriver to catch TDC.

If this will work out, from what years and models I can use a gas tank?
New one is $100.

Post by **Nobody** » Sun Dec 18, 2005 4:49 pm

vicsbronco wrote:Cyl. #1 is first on the left (looking towards windshield).

My rotor was pointing at #3 when I was installing distributor. Dumb head!

I used ratchet to turn the main pulley, removed spark plug at #1 and used a long screwdriver to catch TDC.

If this will work out, from what years and models I can use a gas tank?
New one is $100.

Well hopefully you got it.

Still, you need to be at TDC of the compression stroke.

Since you are carbed, you need a tank from 84-85