free lift....

[DBrown]

well I was doing some measuring the yesterday and started to dig threw the growing pile of parts and I came up with something cool.

the problem I was looking at was the rear has a set of 2" lift blocks in the rear with some helper springs to control axle wrap. but sadly the front was still stock.

first I measured the factory springs in the front and got around 11" compressed. then I remebered I had 2 different sets of springs from other D44's in the pile of parts. bingo! I found the set from the FS Bronco. I remember measuring them before I pulled them and I get 13" compressed.....

one thing I have concerns about is the weight of the front and them being to stiff. then I started to think.....the 351M is about 100 lbs heavier then the 302 and I have a huge heay bumper. so I think it will be close enough to not notice it that much on the road. if it is too stiff I have a set of springs from a 302 truck to try for now. I plan to install the wristed arm and see how it goes but I like the new stance.

lesson for everyone.......don't throw anything away......ever

[Nobody]

Hey that's looking good. You've cleaned it up a lot. What do you have left before it's driveable?

[DBrown]

well, I spent all yesterday working on the under hood. all the wiring is hooked up. the only thing I need to finish is a negative battery cable. the carb is rebuilt and bolted down all I need to do is put a fuel filter between the carb and the pump and the small piece of line to connect it. after that I can start it but I still got some exhaust work and I got to figure out what I am going to do about a lower radiator hose........my water pump dumps on the driver side and my hose connection to the radiator is on the passengerside.

I am getting alot closer but I am working as money permits so the test drive is probably a while out. I would like to get the rear swapped in, power steering hooked up, and the front brakes done before I take it around the block.

I am looking forward to stripping the paint off and giving it a fresher look also.

[Nobody]

On the FS springs, I'm thinking you probably won't be happy, but they will work to get you down the road for awhile.

For the lower radiator hose, you're looking at either a new waterpump or new radiator.

I think I would lean toward replacing the radiator, especially if yours isn't crossflow.

[DBrown]

yeah, I did some research on the lower radiator hose issue and found some topics that said the water pumps that dumped on the passenger side didn't flow as well plus all my acc. brackets will probably not work, so I am looking at some options. I would like to just get a different radiator because I think that would be the right way to go. the problem is finding one to fit into the factory location between the frame rails with out blowing my budget. I have thought about splicing a few hoses together to see how that works but I don't realy want to do that.

I am not realy sure what radiator I have, it looks like a stock 302 radiator. I have one that was realy close to what I needed came out of an old couger but it didn't fit so I am looking now.

I figured the springs would be a little on the stiff side, but it's kind of like you said.....it will get me on the road for now and I will not be lifted in the rear and stock in the front.

[Nobody]

Check the generic aluminim radiator sizes at summit. The one in my BII was only $180 at the time.

[Dreded]

whats wrong with using a piece of rubber rad hose to connect to a ABS pipe that dumbs on the opposite side? so instead of using a long piece of rad hose you have a nice solid piece of ABS

[ranger5.0]

heat makes plastic pipe brittle. Why don't you ue a copper pipe like every early 60's chevy pickup I see.

[Bob Myers]

In that last pic there, is that yeller thing a 64 falcon?

[DBrown]

In that last pic there, is that yeller thing a 64 falcon?

yep