solid axle swap questions

crazy4ink · Post by **crazy4ink** » Mon Aug 22, 2005 2:06 pm

I've looked through a lot of the threads about this topic on here, but not all of them. I still have a few questions though and I'm hoping you all can help me.

I have a 1988 BII. I was given a rear 9" housing by a friend of mine. It has a third member and axles, but no brakes, so I thought it was a good time to put disc brakes on it.

I was just given a Dana 30 from a 66 Bronco that is complete except it needs the passenger side axle. So, for very mild wheeling, with nothing bigger than 33s, will these two axles hold up? Also, I know from the shop talk tab that I need the radius arm brackets from a 78-79 F150/bronco, so I have to find those.

Which radius arms do I use? My BII ones or do I need the ones from that EB front axle?

Post by **Nobody** » Mon Aug 22, 2005 5:01 pm

I think the early bronco dana 30 is a good choice for a swap. Mostly because a dana 44 is interchangeable. Of course I'd recommend the dana 44 from the start, but the dana 30 would hold up fine to light wheelin. You'll want to convert to disc brakes though. The discs will swap right onto a 44 too.

You'll use the EB radius arms. They are the same for the Dana 30 and Dana 44. You can even use radius arms from fullsize axles, the coil pad holes are just slightly different.

The 9" will be a small bearing 28 spline. Not really a whole lot better than your 7.5", but if you eventually buy a locker, it's better to spend the money on a 9", because you can eventually upgrade your housing.

Rear disc brakes aren't really necessary, more a of a bling bling thing. I like them because the maintenance is easier, and probably cheaper.

You can do rear disc cheap by using caddy calipers, CJ rotors and weld on brackets from AA. Unfortunately the parking brake will suck.

If you want a parking brake that works, you need to keep your drums or do the explorer disc conversion, which is going to cost you.

crazy4ink · Post by **crazy4ink** » Mon Aug 22, 2005 7:03 pm

Ok, that's the kinda info I was looking for. Now I know what parts I need to pull off the donor frame that I was given.

Another question: Which sway bar (if any) do I run? The BII one or the EB one?? My BII will mostly be a daily driver (about 100 miles per day) will weekend trail playing.

DBrown · Post by **DBrown** » Tue Aug 23, 2005 7:06 am

the sway bars are the first thing I throw away.......

crazy4ink · Post by **crazy4ink** » Tue Aug 23, 2005 7:15 am

DBrown wrote:the sway bars are the first thing I throw away.......

With the solid axle swap and no sway bars, how much a PITA is it to drive on the highway??

Post by **Nobody** » Tue Aug 23, 2005 10:23 am

The ford radius arm setup is basically one big swaybar.

DBrown · Post by **DBrown** » Tue Aug 23, 2005 10:27 am

I have not driven a SAS ranger/BII at highway speeds.........but on the SA as long as you have the arm pinned the radius arms and axle housing act like a swaybar. just don't drive it like a sports car and you will be fine.

crazy4ink · Post by **crazy4ink** » Tue Aug 23, 2005 10:28 am

Makes this swap sound even better! Now I can ditch the sway bar when I do it.

Another question: (I know, getting to be a PITA)

Stock V6 with auto tranny, highway driving to and from work and weekend trail riding/mud hole thrashing, what gears would you all recommend? 4.56 or 4.88? I am going to go with a 302 (hopefully) when the engine finally gives up the ghost.

DBrown · Post by **DBrown** » Tue Aug 23, 2005 10:29 am

with 33's and a stock motor I would go with 4.56's

Post by **Nobody** » Tue Aug 23, 2005 11:06 am

DBrown wrote:with 33's and a stock motor I would go with 4.56's

I agree