hello again!
I'm trying to find some answers to timing questions, I have also asked this on broncoII.org
First, I have to confess to being a bit thick in the head when it comes to ignition stuff like ripping out the whole distributor and putting it back.
I'ts always been an obstacle for me in the past, and this fine day & age is no exception.
So now that my motor and ignition are back together, and the last parts are rolling in, I am getting to the point that I should consider how to set the tmiing before I start the truck.
I am willing to bet that after replacing heads and removing/reinstalling the dissy, I should try to get it within a base-timing before trying to start it up.
Although I marked the distributor, I am not 100% confident that it went back in on the exact same camshaft gear tooth it came off of.
In fact, I am more confident that it did not than I am that it did.
I think I am within a tooth or two, am I wrong to think I cannot just turn the distributor housing slightly to compensate?
WTF is the spout?!
My Haynes manual once again is vague or unsure of itself when it comes time to discuss this component.
I'm guessing it's the one little jumpered connector that pokes out of the wiring harness that cuts across the top of the intake manifold.
No worries about setting dwell, just the timing marks aligned w/ timing light?
Can I use an inductive type timing light?
Anything I'm not doing or that I'm missing?
Other than finding TDC, is there a way I can I set the timing without 'starting ' the engine?
How crucial is it if it's not dead-on right?
How do I set the timing close to the stock specs so that I can fine-tune it once it gets warmed up?
Did I just ask the same question like five different ways? I think I did..
I really don't want to get detonation on the first try and possibly screw up all my hard work!
Your help is appreciated.
setting timing after distributor removal
setting timing after distributor removal
'87 2.9L World heads FM145/1350 WARN hubs
lilBro buildup
lilBro buildup
You don't have to worry about nuking your whole engine just by starting with the timing off. Now it might backfire and spit up through the intake, but odds are it just won't start at all if the timing isn't close.
Marking the distributor doesn't really help you once you've moved the crank. That's more for an in and out job. But you've certainly turned the engine over if you've done a rebuild. No problem though!
Step 1:
Find TDC (top dead center) of the #1 cylinder on the compression stroke. If you're on the exhaust stroke, your dizzy will be "180 out".
The number one cylinder is always the forward most cylinder. On a 2.8L it's the passenger side front cylinder. I'm pretty sure 2.9's are the same.
If you loosen up the #1 plug, you should hear it pushing air out on the compression stroke. When you think you are close to TDC, pull the plug completely, then eyeball TDC, or use a screwdriver or something to get as close as possible to TDC. It's not really that critical to be exact.
Step 2:
Find the #1 cyl on the distributor cap, and mark the side of the distributor.
Step 3:
Install the distributor. This is the tricky part. Because of how the gears are cut, the rotor will turn as the distributor slides into place. You want the rotor to line up with the mark you made on the distributor body.
You wan this to be as close as possible. Yes you can compenstate some, but what you'll find is that the wiring harness may not have enough slack, or the distributor body will hit your firewall when you try to adjust the timing. So you want the distributor to have plenty of adjustment in both directions.
One problem you might run into is getting the oil pump shaft to line up to allow the distributor to drop in the right place. You can use a tool to turn the shaft slightly, or move the crank a little.
Finish hooking up the plug wires, and snug the dizzy bolt down just enough to where you can still turn the distributor.
Step 5:
START YOUR ENGINE! At this point your engine should start, if it doesn't move the dizzy one way or another until it does. Once running, turn the dizzy a little until it smooths out. Let it warm up a bit and check for leaks.
Step 5:
Adjust the timing. Disconnect the Spout Connector!
--The spout connector is on the single wire coming out of your distrbutor separate from the rest of the wires. I think it's a yellow wire, but don't quote me on that. Disconnecting the spout connector disables the electronic timing advance.
Clean up the timing marks and pointer on engine. It helps to smear some white paint or something into the number grooves....especially the one you're trying to adjust to. In this case I believe 10* TDC.
Hook your light to the #1 plug wire and fire up the engine. Your engine may not stay running without the spout connector plugged in. In that case, ajust the dizzy a little until it will stay running.
Adjust the timing to 10* then then, tighten everything up, plug in the spout connector and go wheelin!
Good Luck
Marking the distributor doesn't really help you once you've moved the crank. That's more for an in and out job. But you've certainly turned the engine over if you've done a rebuild. No problem though!
Step 1:
Find TDC (top dead center) of the #1 cylinder on the compression stroke. If you're on the exhaust stroke, your dizzy will be "180 out".
The number one cylinder is always the forward most cylinder. On a 2.8L it's the passenger side front cylinder. I'm pretty sure 2.9's are the same.
If you loosen up the #1 plug, you should hear it pushing air out on the compression stroke. When you think you are close to TDC, pull the plug completely, then eyeball TDC, or use a screwdriver or something to get as close as possible to TDC. It's not really that critical to be exact.
Step 2:
Find the #1 cyl on the distributor cap, and mark the side of the distributor.
Step 3:
Install the distributor. This is the tricky part. Because of how the gears are cut, the rotor will turn as the distributor slides into place. You want the rotor to line up with the mark you made on the distributor body.
You wan this to be as close as possible. Yes you can compenstate some, but what you'll find is that the wiring harness may not have enough slack, or the distributor body will hit your firewall when you try to adjust the timing. So you want the distributor to have plenty of adjustment in both directions.
One problem you might run into is getting the oil pump shaft to line up to allow the distributor to drop in the right place. You can use a tool to turn the shaft slightly, or move the crank a little.
Finish hooking up the plug wires, and snug the dizzy bolt down just enough to where you can still turn the distributor.
Step 5:
START YOUR ENGINE! At this point your engine should start, if it doesn't move the dizzy one way or another until it does. Once running, turn the dizzy a little until it smooths out. Let it warm up a bit and check for leaks.
Step 5:
Adjust the timing. Disconnect the Spout Connector!
--The spout connector is on the single wire coming out of your distrbutor separate from the rest of the wires. I think it's a yellow wire, but don't quote me on that. Disconnecting the spout connector disables the electronic timing advance.
Clean up the timing marks and pointer on engine. It helps to smear some white paint or something into the number grooves....especially the one you're trying to adjust to. In this case I believe 10* TDC.
Hook your light to the #1 plug wire and fire up the engine. Your engine may not stay running without the spout connector plugged in. In that case, ajust the dizzy a little until it will stay running.
Adjust the timing to 10* then then, tighten everything up, plug in the spout connector and go wheelin!
Good Luck
Thanks Nobody, that does help.
I replaced heads, I didn't have to get far into the engine.
I kept it in gear w/ the brake set, and did not move the truck or spin the motor while I had the dissy out.
Of course it's a necessity to find TDC when adjusting the rockers, and at that point (with the distributor back in) I put a breaker bar and a long extension on the crank.
I put some thought into it, and here's what I've come up with:
it seems possible I did get it back in just the right spot, because the oilpump shaft apparently lined right up.
I really didn't have to fight or fiddle with it once the dissy was going in.
From what I could see (nothing) the housing dropped into place against the top of the block with no obstructions.
I didn't have any problems getting the distributor housing to snug down with the bolt.
When I crank on the breaker bar the dissy spins nicely with no noises or binding (as in if I had misaligned the oilpump shaft) .
It seems safe to say that if the pump shaft had not lined up it would prevent me from doing so.
Whattya think?
I replaced heads, I didn't have to get far into the engine.
I kept it in gear w/ the brake set, and did not move the truck or spin the motor while I had the dissy out.
Of course it's a necessity to find TDC when adjusting the rockers, and at that point (with the distributor back in) I put a breaker bar and a long extension on the crank.
I put some thought into it, and here's what I've come up with:
it seems possible I did get it back in just the right spot, because the oilpump shaft apparently lined right up.
I really didn't have to fight or fiddle with it once the dissy was going in.
From what I could see (nothing) the housing dropped into place against the top of the block with no obstructions.
I didn't have any problems getting the distributor housing to snug down with the bolt.
When I crank on the breaker bar the dissy spins nicely with no noises or binding (as in if I had misaligned the oilpump shaft) .
It seems safe to say that if the pump shaft had not lined up it would prevent me from doing so.
Whattya think?
'87 2.9L World heads FM145/1350 WARN hubs
lilBro buildup
lilBro buildup
The oil shaft is a hex shaft. It's only a problem sometimes. So no, I wouldn't bank on it being correct just because the dizzy fit. However, if you think are close, try to start it up....it's really no big deal.
Really, it's takes all of 5 minutes to set #1 to TDC and drop the dizzy where it needs to be. Nothing to be scared of.
Really, it's takes all of 5 minutes to set #1 to TDC and drop the dizzy where it needs to be. Nothing to be scared of.
It can be a little harder than that for me.
I live with some minor physical limitations from being hit by a limo in my grrls Elantra, so I try not to climb in the doghouse too often
I live with some minor physical limitations from being hit by a limo in my grrls Elantra, so I try not to climb in the doghouse too often
'87 2.9L World heads FM145/1350 WARN hubs
lilBro buildup
lilBro buildup
Hello again, thought I'd visit a moment and give the good news.
The Bro is back up and running, many thanks to Nobody for the timing help & suggestions, it really made a difference.
I put the 4.0 rad in while I was at it, and since my old one sprung a leak (hence the head job)...WOW what a difference!
The thing holds two jugs of coolant by its bad self!
You were right BTW; the spout wire is yellow.
You were also correct about the #1 cylinder location.
FWIW judging from the current position of the housing, I did not get the dissy back in the exact same spot, but on my truck there was plenty of room and loom to compensate.
By the third crank the fuel rail had primed and he fired right up.
Got an upcoming club event in Hollister; going to take the time to get a couple other things done on him, and try to wait patiently for July.
Some more good news: my payment for my grill was recieved by the seller on Wednesday, my grill should be here in a week or so
The Bro is back up and running, many thanks to Nobody for the timing help & suggestions, it really made a difference.
I put the 4.0 rad in while I was at it, and since my old one sprung a leak (hence the head job)...WOW what a difference!
The thing holds two jugs of coolant by its bad self!
You were right BTW; the spout wire is yellow.
You were also correct about the #1 cylinder location.
FWIW judging from the current position of the housing, I did not get the dissy back in the exact same spot, but on my truck there was plenty of room and loom to compensate.
By the third crank the fuel rail had primed and he fired right up.
Got an upcoming club event in Hollister; going to take the time to get a couple other things done on him, and try to wait patiently for July.
Some more good news: my payment for my grill was recieved by the seller on Wednesday, my grill should be here in a week or so
'87 2.9L World heads FM145/1350 WARN hubs
lilBro buildup
lilBro buildup