SAS brake line help

Ask technical questions about your Ford Bronco II here. Technical write-ups on your axle swaps, engine swaps, chop tops, etc. are encouraged.
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NMB2
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SAS brake line help

Post by NMB2 »

ok the SAS swap is nearing completion and the next task at hand is the brakes....i seen your writeup (nobody) but i dont quite understand it that well...im not wristing my arms but im running heim joints on the ends so ill basically have the same result. think you could make it clearer for me? maybe just a list of all the parts ill need and est. prices..i need this before monday because thats shopping day! :D
i wish my lawn was emo...so it'd cut itself.
DBrown
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Location: Bowling Green, KY

Post by DBrown »

I used the stock 79 lines that were on the housing then just changed the line that T'ed in the center to a hard line that runes up the radius arm and a rubber line that goes from end of the radius arm to the valve on the frame rail. pretty simple and it will never need any more attention unless I snag it on something. cost me $6 I think.
71 Bronco - twin sticked, full width, 2" lift, wristed arm, lots of rust...

http://www.catalystcycles.com
NMB2
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Joined: Tue Feb 08, 2005 11:39 pm
Location: Albuquerque, New Mexico
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Post by NMB2 »

i didnt grab the brake lines with the axle and the B2 lines are way to short....should i just extend the stock B2 lines, im not understanding the whole "T" valve and what not...im a visual person, sorry cant help it :confused:
i wish my lawn was emo...so it'd cut itself.
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Phillippi
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Post by Phillippi »

I was wondering the same thing for mine. What connections are you using to the radius arms? Also what rubber line you using? Part #s would help some im sure.
DBrown
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Location: Bowling Green, KY

Post by DBrown »

here is what it looks like:
Attachments
more BII 001.jpg
71 Bronco - twin sticked, full width, 2" lift, wristed arm, lots of rust...

http://www.catalystcycles.com
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Nobody
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Post by Nobody »

Plug one port on the proportioning valve.

From the other port, run a short rubber line to the radius arm.

At the radius arm connect a steel line to the rubber line(I used a T, and plugged the unused port.)

Run the steel line down the radius arm to the diff

Use a T to split the lines off to each wheel.

You'll of course need to use a rubber line to connect to each caliper.

The whole idea behind running the line down the radius arm, is so you can have lots of flex without worrying about really long (expensive$$) brake lines.

I don't have any part numbers. I'm not sure I wouldn't recommend the same parts anyway. I had to make due with what I could get at the time.

Image
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