hey nobody i started my arm today did'nt get much done thow. i ground the rivit's off and took a wire brush t the area that's gonna be welded. the auto hobby shop on base out here did'nt have anything to cut the flat sock with so i have to wait till monday to get the steel cut. anyway my questions are
1. when i have the steel cut into (4) 12" pieces should i have them cut 1 of the long sides at a angle to match the arm, or have them cut both long sides at a angle to match the arm?
2. when i bevel the edges do i place the bevel side out away from the channel of the arm or in facing the channel of the arm? should the welder know how it's suppose to be done?
I only cut along one side of the arm. I bevel the inside so the plate will set flat in the arm. Then I bevel the outside a little so I can get a good weld that is flush. If the gap is too big, it takes a bit to fill in.
Once the outside plates are tacked on, drill 2 small holes in the back half of the arm for alignment after you cut the arm.
Damn i miss Western Washington, but you can get so much done in Cali. I talked to a welder today and he's gonna weld my arm up for me next week. Question
I wanted to know if i should reinforce the whole arm or will the 12" be enough. I've been doing some searching and the fullsize guy's were reinforcing the whole arm but of course the have a hell of alot more weight then we b2 wheeler's have. Do you guy's think that the arm will be stong enough? If i dont do it now can i go back and reinforce it later, or will that week'n the metal to much?
I've built 3 of them, and none of them have had any problems. If anything, it's the other arm you should worry about, as it's the one doing all the work.
nobody how far out did you cut the arm after the plate was welded in? i did'nt read anything specific, so how far would you recommend? ohh and should the metal be heated before welding the plate in place? thank's
I hacked the arm in the middle of the inside plate. Nothing is set in stone. That's just how I chose to do it.
Keep the pin hole and pivot hole somewhat close together. Makes it easier to pin the arm.
I didn't do any pre heat. I suppose you probably should. I'm no welding expert. I also only weld a few inches, then flip the arm over and weld a bit...etc...
I also advise clamping the plates down before welding so they don't try to pull away from the arm.
holly crap welder's aint cheap!!! hey nobody im getting my arm welded up this week hopefully it'll be done by the end of the week. the guy that's welding it wanted to know how far yo drilled the 7/8th hole from the wedge and how far you drilled the 5/8th hole from the centerline of the 12" plate. i told him it really dose'nt matter but he want's to get it just like your's.
Well, you want the pivot bolt as close as practical to the wedge. I basically placed the large flat washer on the plate and used that to determine where to drill the hole.
For the lock pin, Put it sort of close to the pivot bolt. It will make it easier to pin. My first arm was spaced a little to much. Again, no real measurement, just wing it. If it's back too far there's a chance your tire could contact the pin at full lock. Not likely on full width though.
Also make sure the shock mount has extra room. Slap a couple washers on either side of the bushing before you weld it, then remove the washers. Don't over tighten the bolt. The shock needs to be able to move.
So what's a welder getting you for? Going rate for a wristed arm is $250 exchange.
. thank's
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now i dont feel so bad.