WTF II?

[n9emz]

Spindle bearing went south a couple of months ago, and just got around to taking a look at it today. When I pulled the hub off.... Inner spindle nut only on the spindle, and it was backed off about six threads. No wonder the damned thing loosened up.

So, I grabs the hub to clean and check it.... again? I found this:



I didn't have time to mess with it any more and needed to get it back together good enough to move it around in the yard to someplace new every time the old woman starts bitchin' about it. So, I cleaned out the bearings good, greased them up, and shot them back in with just the inner nut to retain them.

Welp, I let it down off the jack and then couldn't help myself but to take the critter for a spin. Went down the road about a mile and did Indian Creek a few times. Got back to the house, got out and number 3? I noticed I had positive camber on the bad bearing wheel. Note: When I picked this B2 up in FL back in June, first thing I noticed was negative camber in the r/f wheel.

So you folks be the judge.....tell me....have I really wheeled this sucker two whole weekends on loose bearings? Awwwwwwww.....get out!

[OCD4B2]

mmmm camel lights Looks like uve been screwed over on bearings

[TNMAN]

Hummmm......usually it's the drivers side that loosens.

[DBrown]

how much ft/lbs of torque are you putting on the retainers?

[n9emz]

how much ft/lbs of torque are you putting on the retainers?

Haven't done the procedure yet; but book says:

35 ft-lbs on inner nut, spin rotor to seat bearings
Back off 1/4 turn and re-torq to 16 in-lbs & +/- to seat pin in washer
150 ft-lbs on outer nut

A buddy of mine said 200-220 ft-lbs on outer

The way I've always preloaded bearings previously is spin rotor while tightening until rotor binds up; loosen until freely spins, and re-tighten until castle nut (conventional 2wd bearing set or trailer bearings) lines up for insertion of cotterpin. I've never experienced a bearing problem that way. If I were using KY Windage on the inner nut this is the way I'd do it....back off until it spins freely and give it a little push on the tight side. Then put about half my body weight behind a 2' breaker bar on the outer nut. But, I've wanted to buy new torque wrenches anyhow and this is the excuse I need to do it.

When I inspected the parts this time, first thing I noticed was that the pin was sheared on the inner nut. I presume that it was from over-tightening of the outer nut. I pulled the passenger side down and everything looked okay.

Again, please note that I wheeled the truck the way I bought it without checking anything but the obvious mechanical crap and fluids. The driver's side wheel was obviously negative camber. After bearing cleanout and temporary reassembly, and taking it down the road and through a creekbed a couple of times, I noticed that the wheel was positively cambered. I suspect I wheeled it with loose bearings from the get-go.

[DBrown]

I have always torqued mine to 150 and I only had to re torque them like every 9 mo. to a year. I would check when I did some deep water travels but never had to really tear them apart to often.

[huffs]

was the little pin that sticks out of the inner nut missing or worn out???If it was or is then use a piece of welding rod to replace it that will help in the battle of the losening bearings

[n9emz]

It was sheared off. I thought about tack welding the two nuts and washer together.

[huffs]

you are better off just replacing the lil pin with a piece of welding rod...if you weld it then it'll be a bitch getting it off later...just pop whats left of the pin then jam a chunk of welding rod in the hole then cut in long and pound it in all the way and lay the washer over it and grind or file it off smooth with the top of the washer then it'll be good as new