runs untill its warm (video)

[UndeadBronco]

So I got out this morning and messed with the ol truck a bit. I found that I was able ot keep it running if I held the rpms at about 2k or above. At times I had to give it more throttle when it would try and sputter out. Giving it throttle would bogg it down a bit then the mixture I suppose would correct out and the rpms would indeed rise to keep her running. While keeping the truck running for a good 15 minutes at normal operating temp it was obvious that the engine was stumbling/missfireing. The stumble would get less apparent the more I raised rpm. So I imagine its a bit out of timing probably from when I replaced the distribotor. This shouldn't make it just stumble and die though. If the distributor is so far out of wack then it just wouldn't start untill the distributor was gotten close enough to spec. At that point it would just continue ot run although missfireing and backfireing.

Sorry about the vids not working, no more Megavideo :(

[UndeadBronco]

So I called a mobile mechanic to come and take a look at the ol Bronco this past Thursday. Heres the steps he went through.
1. Start and run engine several times to listen for anything abnormal. 10 mins
2. Have me run the engine and hold the rpms up to about 2.5k to keep it running while he sprayed brake cleaner in various areas to check for vacuum leaks. None found
3. Have me start the enine and continue to start it each time it died while he taped on different sensors on the engine and then both fuel pumps. No change
4. Losened the distributor and got out the timing light. Had me run the engine at about 2.5k to keep it running while he adjusted the distribotor. That got it running a tad better with less missfire and would die after 5mins or so instead of 2.
5. Got out the fuel pressure gauge and found that the shrader valve had started leaking since the last time I had checked fuel pressure. I pulled a valve out of an old tire I have from another vehicle. That new old valve doesn't leak but the needle isn't long enough to operate the pressure gauge. So reinstalled the old leaky valve and proceded with the pressure test. Key on and off to get the pressure up to 35 before starting the engine each time. Once started pressure would slowly drop off (about 2 mins) untill it got to 0 and the engine would stumble out and die. Because the pressure would start out at 35 he took a good guess that the high pressure pump on the side rail was good and the problem lay with the in tank pump. Reinstalled the valve core from the old tire so no leaks and put the original in the trucks tool box if needed in the future.
6. (I already had a hole cut for the in tank pump so access was easy) Disconected the fuel lines from the in tank pump but left the electrical lines connected. Pulled the pump out of the tank and held it as far away from the tank opening as the wires would allow. Then had me key on/off the engine 3 times and no fuel came out of either end of the pump assembly even though the pump sounded like it was working. He said, " I bet the red and black wires are crossed." I told him that I hooked it up exactly as the instructions that came with the pump told me to. I also went and got the box and instructions that came with it and showed him. He agreed that I installed it as per the instructions but he still felt it was wired backwards. We figured it's a 12V pump so there really is no harm in wiring it backwards to test so he rewired it backwards. Key on/off shot fuel out at what appeared to be at least 5-10psi.
7. Reinstalled the (backwards wired) pump and started up the engine to slightly readjust the distributor according to the timing light. Tighten down the distributor and let the engine run for 20 mins to check for any signs of stumbling or dieing. It ran fine, no problems.

The guy was at my house right at 2 hrs but only charged me 1hrs worth ($75) because we had a lots of fun chatting about lifted trucks, motorcycles, and dune buggys.

So my problem came from the cheap chinese fuel pump which came with a heater hose instead of real fuel line and also instructions with pictures that showed wireing it backwards. I put that pump in on 11/30/09. So I guess the moral of the epic story is when you put in a fuel pump do a key on/off test a few times to make sure it sprays fuel before you hook up the lines, if it doesn't then hook it up backwards.

Honestly I should have thought of hooking the 12V dc pump backwards but it never occured to me like it would have if it had been say a house hold appliance/machine. Sometimes you just need amother persons eyes to look at the situation.

[tekatlarge]

I would suspect the Hi pump, because you seem to be able to put out about 8 PSI continuously. That pressure would lead me to think the low pump would be OK.

However keep this in mind. It could be a tank pump too. If it were me I would at least disconnect the inlet to the high pressure pump and direct the fuel line into a container. Have someone jumper 12 volts to the in tank pump and make sure you get a good consistent VOLUME of fuel! If the high pump can't get any fuel it can't raise the pressure.

I love it when a plan comes together.