well i was looking to sell my bronco and everyone who comes out don't want it. some guy told me today that i needs u joints and something with the front drive line. it done hold a charge so i have to jump it every time i try and start it. i love it to death but don't know if its worth fixing or not. someone please help me to figure out whats wrong with it or if i should just sell it as parts.
If the B2 runs good and 4x4 works, then why not buy the couple of u-joints (under $30) and change them out. Also a new battery could only run you $55 or so if you go cheap. If its the alternator then you can get one at a wrecking yard for not much $$$. But the hard part is you have to deside whats worth it and whats not. Good luck.
could it be the altanater if i changed it right before it went tits up? it was less then a year ago when i changed it could it go bad that fast if it was just sitting
Easiest way to tell is to take it to an auto-parts store and have them check it while its runinng. It would seem unlikely that its dead after only a year though.
is this a common problem in bronco II's first it was a starter problem i put a starter button in it and then discovered it was the ig switch and then all was well and then it started this jolting thing. so i messed around with the timing and then it was fine and now the bat will not stay charged and i don't know if there is a elect problem or what. i replaced the teranals thinking they where causing the problem and that turned up i was wrong. i would have the alt checked but i dont think that my bronco would make it to town which is 15 miles from my parents house which is where she is parked.
You could always unbolt the alt. and take it (just the alternator) to the parts store or garage and have them check if it's working or not, most places will check it for free or cheap. Does the Bronco have a stereo with a memory or any other accessory that requires voltage when the engine is off? If so it will drain the battery when parked for extended periods. When parking it for extended periods it would be a good idea to disconnect the battery while parked and reconnect it again when you want to run it.
The chances are. If your alt. is a year old, its probably good. They rarely go bad just sitting there. There go bad because of ware. Im taking a shot in the dark giving what I know about your situation and say that its the battery thats the problem. If you jump start your BII with the battery hooked up you can tell if your alt. is charging it or not by testing the DC voltage with a volt meter. So if your truck is running and with meter on the lowest range for DC voltage, touch one lead to the pos. side of the battery and the other lead the the neg. side of the battery. If your alt. is charging the battery you should have 13-15 volts at the battery. Google how to change a u-joint, you will be proud of yourself.
Another basic tool free method to check for charging.
It is best to do this inside or in the late evening so you can get a really good look at the intensity of the lights.
First an assumption, The battery is dead or almost and you jump start the bronco.
1. Start the vehicle and when idling remove the jumpers and turn on the headlights.
2. Is it still running after you remove the cables?
3. Observe the headlight, Is it dim, bright, or pulsing?
4. Speed engine up to 1500 to 2000 rpm
5. Observe change in headlight brightnes or not.
6. Turn on the heater fan full.
7. Observe change in headlight brightness or not.
The charging system IS working if the following were observed:
1. the engine continues to run when idling.
2. The headlights got brighter or stayed at the same brightness when engine rpm were increased.
3. There is no significant change in brightness from 2000 rpm with lights on and adding heater fan load.
Suspect charging problems when you observe the following:
1. If you jumped it to start it and removed the jumpers and the engine quits or quits when lights are on.
2. Lights were dim to start and did not get any brighter.
3. Lights were dim and engine ran crappy at 2000 rpm (assuming it ran ok before)
4. Lights were dim or normal and when heater was switched on at 2000 rpm they got dimmer.
Remember this is just an "Educated Guess" method but has worked for quite a few non mechanical friends. Most of the time it is the battery. I have had brand new batteries fail with weeks or months on them. Setting is hard on a battery. What will Kill a battery for sure is leave it outside in a discharged state for any length of time.
Be sure to let us know what you do eventually to fix the problem.
Best to you and good luck
The Tek @ Large
Coastal,Worshington
Livin life on the dole on the Coast