engine hard to start, and when it starts, idle fluxciates fo
engine hard to start, and when it starts, idle fluxciates fo
my 2.9L in my 1989 bronco II is hard to start. usually requiring 3 - 4 turns of the key ( 3 - 4 secs each) before it will start up.
1st turn usually does nothing. 2nd turn, it may start to fire, but will sputter and die. 3rd turn, it will usually start, but stall out after a few seconds. 4th turn it starts up fine.
Once it starts, the idle speed will fluxicate up and down, every 5 seconds or so, then after a minute it steadys out.
i've tried cleaning the IAC valve, and didn't make much difference.
i should also mention that when the truck is warm the engine starts fine.
any ideas?
1st turn usually does nothing. 2nd turn, it may start to fire, but will sputter and die. 3rd turn, it will usually start, but stall out after a few seconds. 4th turn it starts up fine.
Once it starts, the idle speed will fluxicate up and down, every 5 seconds or so, then after a minute it steadys out.
i've tried cleaning the IAC valve, and didn't make much difference.
i should also mention that when the truck is warm the engine starts fine.
any ideas?
mechjames wrote:there looks like 2 hookups on the air box and only one has a line attached, is this right?
IIRC there should be two, I don't own a BII so I can't tell you for sure but a friends was doing weird idle stuff and the line was the problem.
HTH
Ranger 5.o, needing another project like Rosie O'Donnell needs another M&M.
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- Posts: 38
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- Location: Omaha, NE
I second that...check pressure at the railSounds like you are lacking fuel pressure.
71 Bronco - twin sticked, full width, 2" lift, wristed arm, lots of rust...
http://www.catalystcycles.com
http://www.catalystcycles.com
guys ....... he said it runs fine when the motor is warm, so it is hard to believe it is the fuel regulator......... i would recommend that he pulls the IAC off the truck and take it apart and oil the O-Ring inside ..... when the Oring dries it will bind it usually coated with a vacuum greese ...... but a light oil will do the same thing to tell if thats the problem ....... besides if he cleaned it and didnt re coat it with greese then im positive that can cause the problem .........to me it sounds as the O-Ring is binding ... and make sure you clean it thoroughly with carb and choke cleaner, when your done, grease the O-Ring, that should fix your problem, if it doesnt then you need to make sure it isnt binding inside, take it loose form manifold, key off and use a jumper wires from batery you should visually see it move, do not use the key to try this because it may spray fuel into your eyes.
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Please Be Advised: You Should Always Wear Safety Glasses when working on the fuel system!
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Please Be Advised: You Should Always Wear Safety Glasses when working on the fuel system!
1989 Bronco II 4x4
Mitsubishi 146 5 speed,
Stock D35
235/75/15
4.0L upgrade
NO LIFT
Crop Top
Mitsubishi 146 5 speed,
Stock D35
235/75/15
4.0L upgrade
NO LIFT
Crop Top