SWAP start (finally)

Post by **Nobody** » Thu Jul 22, 2004 3:55 pm

There's about a 6" difference, so you either need to move the wedges in 3" each side, or move the buckets out 3" each side. I really really suggest moving the wedges.

I wouldn't hold out for an EB axle. Just get a HP44 and cut it down. The axles with the cast wedges are easy to narrow. Remember, you only have to cut the long side.

Phillippi · Post by **Phillippi** » Thu Jul 22, 2004 4:45 pm

I called a local 4x4 shop here that gives me great deals on stuff and he said he narrows the axles for approx $400. That in addition to the axle price itself is $500. I think I would rather get the springs outward and get a fullsized rear (8.8 which I have already from my donor vehicle) as well. Then spend the money on exhaust and other small stuff.

Post by **Nobody** » Thu Jul 22, 2004 5:46 pm

Yeah.....that's highway robbery. I guarantee there are shops that specialize in building axles. Not necessarily 4wd shops...think racing.

Ask around on the net, there must be some reputable folks in your neck of the woods.

Phillippi · Post by **Phillippi** » Thu Jul 22, 2004 6:50 pm

ok here is a question. If I got this hp d44 with the cast wedges, will it still work after cut down to eb size? I mean would it put the wedge in the right place on the uncut side? Also let me tell you that I only have $550 plus whatever I sell the front stuff + front 3"duff lift for to get my exhaust, radius arms, coils, front axle, so thats why I think for now I am really looking into building the coil towers and going full sized as I have a FS 8.8 already. Then at a later time swap in a 9" or just re-gear both front and rear to something more low.

FatMan · Post by **FatMan** » Thu Jul 22, 2004 7:06 pm

there's enough tube on the outside edge of the axle to cut the 5 or so inches you need to cut you wont have to move the wedge. another thing you can do is find a spring perch d44 from f-150/f-250 and run spring's front /rear with fullsize axles.

i think first you should figure out what you want to run what's for you eb length or FULLSIZE. that will make what you want to do easier. i know it's a hard decision i had the same problem when i went to build my rig but finances/time decided for me.

Phillippi · Post by **Phillippi** » Wed Jul 28, 2004 6:25 pm

Well I got a bunch of crap taken off today. It doesnt seem that I did very much but it took me forever....

Post by **Nobody** » Wed Jul 28, 2004 7:26 pm

Hanging on to that sway bar till the second huh?

Phillippi · Post by **Phillippi** » Wed Jul 28, 2004 10:48 pm

I ran out of time today. Thats why the drop brackets are still there on the passenger side... Work got in the way...

Question... Is there a way to get the ttb steering to work on a d44 or is it different geometry?

FatMan · Post by **FatMan** » Thu Jul 29, 2004 1:07 am

DAMNNNNNNN!!!!!! that thing looks but-naked. good work Phillippi is that enough encurragement??

i think the ttb steering can be used but might not work as well as the eb steering becuz of the design.

Post by **Nobody** » Thu Jul 29, 2004 5:49 am

Don't use the TTB steering. If you did manage to hook it up, it would toe in/out your tires everytime you hit a bump.

Phillippi · Post by **Phillippi** » Thu Jul 29, 2004 2:17 pm

so should I be able to cut down the stock steering for the FS that came with my axle? Maybe sleeve it or cut an end and weld a new one on?

Post by **Nobody** » Thu Jul 29, 2004 2:42 pm

That should work fine. I ran a cut down tie rod for awhile. Ultimately, you'll want to do the Chevy TRE conversion like I did.

Phillippi · Post by **Phillippi** » Fri Jul 30, 2004 4:31 pm

Ok Matt is this any better (no sway bar, duff drop brackets, exhaust y-pipe)

FatMan · Post by **FatMan** » Fri Jul 30, 2004 4:45 pm

but.. but.. but.. you forgot the sway bar!!!

Phillippi · Post by **Phillippi** » Fri Jul 30, 2004 4:51 pm

D-diesel wrote:but.. but.. but.. you forgot the sway bar!!!

Its gone. Only the steering is left on... My kids soccer practice calls, then work...