BroncoII4x4.com

Changed out the fuel filter, changed over to the larger throttle body from an 86 (wanted to do that for awhile now), changed the air flow sensor. I will try to pull the codes sometime today after work or tmrw. I did notice the throttle being a bit more responsive after changing the tb, but it still ...

89 Bronco II 5 speed
First off when I start in the morning it revs up to 1200 then stutters, coughs and dies. When I try starting it again it fires right up. As for the throttle when applied it hesitates for a second. Any help would be great!

Ok I feel like and idiot! My old man had unplugged the 1st and 4th cylinder wires and thats what was wrong! Thats why it pays to double check other peoples work!

First I'll start at the beginning. Bought this 90 B2 and it came with loud rockers and a serious stutter or shake when idling. If you were to apply gas it would stumble at first but seem to rev up just fine. While driving it wants to fall on it's face and seems to have little to no power at all. I ...

Well ended up going to 5 degrees btc and the pinging stopped! Geez I feel dumb after all that!

I would but the B2 has been scrapped

sure did, like I said never pinged like this when the engine was in my B2

When I checked it before I timed it it was at 20 degrees BTDC. I didn't want to go back any further so I moved it forward to 10 degrees where it should be. Didn't change anything.

Well took me long enough but I got my timing set to where it needs to be now it still pings! I sounds like cheap fuel but I never use that! Confused...

If you go over to 5 speed you will need the wiring harness, computer, slave cylinder, and peddles. You should look into the valve body, pretty common on those to get all clogged up.

If you get ahold of the manual hubs you will need the two nuts and washer that come with. The auto hubs have a different washer setup that connects it to the hub. Warn sells the conversion nuts. Or you could just get then off of a rig with the manual hubs. But if you have a dana 28 you will need ...

There is a "z" link inside the tranny that you can see right away if you were to drop the pan the engages the tranny into drive and reverse that sometimes gets bent and can cause what you are talking about. You also might need to rebuild you valve body. http://explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php ...

The rear seal to your master cylinder could have gone out and now the vacuum line is sucking brake fluid into the engine. Had this happen before, now your brakes could be spongy due to air now being in the system

Those automatic hubs are notorious for not working. Get ahold of a set manual locking hubs and you should be good to go. With the buttons inside there is a motor on the t-case that locks the 4wd in and out so if no 4wd after the hubs looks like a new motor is needed.

Well to answer your question, first lets start with the cams. The cam is a is a small piece the fits around the upper ball joint. Try taking a wire brush and giving it a scrub to see which cam you have in right now. Here's an example if you say have a 1 degree cam that the slot is facing directly ...