302 Conversion

77granada.jpg (96793 bytes)

The Donor

This is a 1977 Ford Granada. It has 47,000 original miles, and it shows. It belonged to an old lady who can no longer drive. The only thing I see that has been done is the water pump has been recently replaced, and it has a Holly 2 barrel carb, which I don't really care for. It purrs like a kitten and runs great. I paid $450 and I get the engine, tranny, radiator, and anything I want off the car. I could have had the whole thing for $500, but I didn't have use for anything else. I'm not sure what the rear end is.

March 7, 2001

Estimated time:  3 hours

Bought the engine today. I got to drive it to my parents house where I started pulling the engine. I'm going to try and pull the engine and tranny together, not sure if that will work out. Pretty much have everything ready to go,  just need to get a few more things out of the way and its ready. Plan is to pull it Saturday.


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302out.jpg (96901 bytes)

March 10, 2001

Estimated time: 1.5 hours

Pulled the engine out today. The leveler on the hoist made this one of the easiest pulls I have done.

March 12, 2001

I ordered about $1,200 worth of swap parts. 2 phone calls and about 5 minutes. I hope this stuff is worth it.


Kaufmann Motor Mounts $169 These are supposed to be the best out there, and allow the best placement of the engine.
Kaufmann Shorty Headers coated $395 I have no Idea what I was thinking. But I got them. They were out of stock of the non coated ones($325) so I talked them down from $439 on the coated ones to $395.  I think I could have made the stock manifolds work, but I know I would want headers in the future, so I said what the hell. This way I get good quality and only have to build the exhaust once.
James Duff Remote oil filter kit $49 Remote oil filter is required for a 302 conversion. Kaufmann is supposed to be the best, but I'm going to try the James Duff unit and save 50 bucks.
James Duff NP435 to Dana 20 Adapter $442 Some people make these adapters themselves, and there was rumor you could use the factory adapter from the NP435 to Dana 21 single speed transfer, but I proved that wrong. I'll do a write up about that on another page. The adapter James Duff sells is actually the Advanced Adapters unit, only they sell it for $50 less. 

March 14, 2001

Ok now things are getting tricky. I've been stopped dead in my tracks. So it doesn't look like I'll be doing the swap this weekend. My bronco is my daily driver, so I'm not doing this until I have all the pieces I can think of to make this swap happen quickly. The two main hold ups at this point are a flywheel and oil pan.


Since I'm converting to a manual transmission, I need find a flywheel. This isn't quite as simple as it sounds. I put in hours of research already and this is what I came up with. 302's up through 1981 used flywheels with the 28 ounce imbalance, then in 1982 they switched to the 50oz imbalance. It also seems that "All" 351W used the 28 oz imbalance. I got a new 11" clutch with my tranny, so that means I need to find a flywheel for an 11" clutch disc with a 28oz imbalance off of a 302 or 351W. I searched everywhere yesterday, and only came up with one for a 10" clutch or whatever size that is. It was nice too. So until I find a flywheel, there isn't much I can do.

Oil pan

In order to get the engine as low as possible a dual sump oil pan is required. My engine is a 77 302 with a front sump pan and the dipstick is in the timing cover. Supposively there were some factory dual sump pans with the dip stick in the pan. I've heard rumors they were found in some Crown Victoria's in particular, police cars. I'm still checking on this. None of the aftermarket pans I have found have the dipstick in the side of the pan.

I called James duff, they had a pan and pickup and studded main cap bolt for $133, but they were out of stock. 

I found a dual sump pan without dipstick and it has a low oil sensor in it for $50 at a junk yard, but the pickup tube is nowhere to be found.

I called L & L and their custom 6 qt pan recommended for 4 wheel drives is $233.

I just called Ford and had them price a pan for a late 88 5.0 Crown Victoria, and it was $87 for the pan, $33 for the pickup tube and $8 for the studded main cap bolt. He wasn't sure if that was dual sump or not and he didn't think it had a dip stick.

Rear sump pans can be used, but they don't get the engine as low in the chassis. One of the reasons I bought the Kaufmann motor mounts was they allow the engine to be placed lower  and further back.

More Dual Sump Oil Pan Info

I've found out that the Early Bronco's did indeed use the dual sump pans with the dip stick in the side. Ford has discontinued them though. I also got a lead on another application. 91 T-Bird. I ordered this pan from ford. I won't get it until Monday and I'm not sure if its the correct one. The part numbers and prices  listed below. Some of the larger Ford parts departments have this pan in stock.

Oil Pan             F1SZ-6675-B      $87.28
Pickup Tube     F1SZ-6750-A      $33.83
Dip Stick Tube F1SZ-6754-A      $11.67
Dip Stick          F3ZZ-6622-A      $17.36

UPS guy showed up today

James Duff Stuff showed up today. The remote oil filter kit looks good enough and AA adapter looks awesome.

March 15, 2001

UPS guy showed up again...... Brought me my Kaufmann motor mounts and headers. I'm a little disappointed with the headers. For $400 I expected some quality bolts and gaskets, and the collectors. They look great though. I've been told a gasket isn't required and to use high-temp silicon. I'll call them and find out for sure.

The motor mounts look really easy to build if you had all the measurements. They should sell the plans for a lower price. Look like good mounts though.

(below)Kaufmann Motor mounts

(Below) L&L motor mounts

llmounts.jpg (10546 bytes)

(Below)Kaufmann Coated Shorty Headers

(Below) L & L shorty headers. Notice the one the
right is almost identical and the one on the left is way different.

(below) Just for kicks here is a pic of stock 5.0 Explorer headers
(borrowed this photo from Lone Ranger, hope you don't' mind)


May 1, 2001

Sorry I haven't updated lately, but I've been pretty busy and I've run into a few setbacks. I finally bought a flywheel and clutch from Tom's Bronco Parts. The flywheel was resurfaced and had a new ring gear pressed on. Good as new. I paid $140. I was going to buy a Centerforce clutch, but I've already spent so much I decided that I'd run a stock clutch for awhile. So, I bought the 11" diaphragm type clutch kit from Tom's Bronco Parts as well for $150. By the way I couldn't use the clutch that came with the 11" inline 6 flywheel. The holes didn't quite line up. Sorry no pictures, I've already got it all bolted up and the tranny installed. I was very pleased with my service from Tom's Bronco Parts.


I also bought a Flex-a-lite dual 12" electric fan from SummitRacing for $200. I really should have thought this one out a little better. All I know is I don't want to deal with overheating ever! Anyway this fan measures approx 16" high and 26 1/2" wide. I got to looking, and the widest radiator that would fit would be 30", and that would barely accommodate the fan. From the inside of one frame rail to the inside of the other frame rail measures 26". That means a radiator wider than that must sit on top of the frame rails. Which without a body lift only gives about 16" max 17" of height for the radiator. I could modify the stock Granada radiator to work with the fan, but it's about 29" wide and 19" tall, so it wont work without a body lift. Besides its only a 2 core and I don't want any overheating problems, ever!! So at this point when I get ready to do the install I think I'm going to order a custom Griffen aluminum radiator. I'm going to have them build the smallest radiator that the fan will fit, and then make it work one way or another. Griffen radiators are supposed to be some of the best, and they seem to be very reasonably priced.

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I still need to figure out what I want to do with the clutch. I had hoped I'd be able to use my stock slave cylinder, but once I got the tranny bolted up and the header on, I realized there really wasn't a lot of room to make that style work. Besides, they are plastic and expensive. A local guy suggested I use a mid 70's Toyota Land Cruiser slave. He said they are small and have a good throw. I bought one for $37 and it looks like it will work. Looks like it will give about 1 1/2" of throw. The master that goes with it was $70, so I'm going to try and use my stock master. I think it will work fine if I can build adapt the hydraulic line.

slavespace.jpg (22985 bytes)  302np435.jpg (57814 bytes)

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I also finally got the dual sump pan mentioned above. It did NOT have the dip stick in the pan. I got some bum advice on that one for sure. I had to pay a restocking fee for the dipstick and tube. It was still cheaper to buy through ford than any of the other places. The only dual sump pans I can guarantee that have the dipstick in the side are the early bronco pans. Now I'm not sure if those are a true dual sump or not. Dip sticks are pretty common in rear sump pans, and dipsticks are common in the 351W dual sump pans. In fact you can still get those direct from Ford.

I intend to check the oil through the stock dipstick on the timing cover. When I was installing the pan I made note of where the full mark on the dipstick was in relation to the oil pump. I think it was about mid way up the body of the pump, and the add mark was about the base of the pump. Anyway I trimmed the dipstick right at the ADD mark. It should be still calibrated correctly no matter what pan I put on the engine. Sorry no pictures of that.

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liftbracket.jpg (32698 bytes)

May 2, 2001

A few weeks ago I was just about ready to start the install when I realized the TTB lift bracket is in the way. At least I think it is. I specifically bought the Kaufmann motor mounts because they are supposed to allow the engine to be placed lower and further back than the rest. I kinda envisioned the dual sump oil pan straddling the engine crossmember, which wouldn't be possible with that lift bracket in place.

It's not really a big deal because I have a dana44 that I can put in, which would allow me to remove that bracket. It is however a setback.

December 2001

Well I got a little too busy to keep up with the updates. As you probably figured out, I swapped in the dana 44 and 302. I am 100% happy with my bronco. The swap took me 10 days. I finished on fathers day 2001. Been driving it since then with absolutely no problems. I'd like to sum up a few things about parts collecting, and call this page good.

I returned the dual flex-a-lite fan back to summit, almost 3 months after I bought it. They took it back no problem. I then ordered a 27 1/2 x 15 Griffin Radiator from  Summit for $180, and bought a $20 junkyard fan. A much better way to go.

I can't check my oil at all with the dipstick in the timing cover. This is really starting to bother me. If I could do it again, I'd find a rear sump pan with a dipstick. I believe there is plenty of room to clear this pan. I'll probably pull the motor in the spring and swap oil pans. Morroso also makes an expensive aftermarket dual sump pan with a dipstick. I might go with this pan.

The oil filter re-locater from James Duff is leaking. I used extreme caution while assembling it to try and prevent leaks. The problem is lines prevent me from tightening the adapter enough. Next oil change I'm going to attempt to tighten it up some more. It's either too tight or too loose. Other companies offer an adapter with a center bolt. This allows the perfect torque, and the lines can exit at the perfect angle.

The clutch line was really easy to adapt to the land cruiser slave cylinder. I just cut one end off and used a compression fitting that changed to piped threads.

The Kaufmann mounts and headers are great and worth the money. I had some clearance issues with the pass header and starter, but nothing serious. A mini starter would clear easily. The headers clear the frame with NO notching, and no body lift.