9" gear setup?
It's hard to get a good read when the backlash is out of whack.
When you post pics, you should list shim pack and backlash, so we can make recommendations.
Pinion looks too deep still. I would add shims.
Ideally, you want the pattern centered on both sides of the tooth. Centered top to bottom being the most important, and heel to toe second. Can't always get it perfect.
The pattern should be large, rounded with soft edges.
When you post pics, you should list shim pack and backlash, so we can make recommendations.
Pinion looks too deep still. I would add shims.
Ideally, you want the pattern centered on both sides of the tooth. Centered top to bottom being the most important, and heel to toe second. Can't always get it perfect.
The pattern should be large, rounded with soft edges.
well, y'all were right too close. here is what I have now:
pinion depth: .038
backlash : 10
pinion depth: .038
backlash : 10
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- gear install 007.jpg (32.79 KiB) Viewed 2179 times
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71 Bronco - twin sticked, full width, 2" lift, wristed arm, lots of rust...
http://www.catalystcycles.com
http://www.catalystcycles.com
this was my first attempt and I think it went ok but I still have some second guesses. I plan to take it to a friend that is good at it and let him look it over just to make sure I don't waist money on a usless hunk of chopped up metal. I spooled the 9"......way cheaper $75
71 Bronco - twin sticked, full width, 2" lift, wristed arm, lots of rust...
http://www.catalystcycles.com
http://www.catalystcycles.com
thanks for the help, it is a good bost to here I actualy am on the right track.
the problem I am having now is that everything looks good, nice and tight, rotates well, but after I torqued the bearing caps for the last time I noticed that the caps were still about 1/16" away from going completely to the housing. they are holding the races and adjusters tight, they are just a small amount away from the housing on the top and bottom on both sides. I double checked the bearing sizes before I bought the rebuild kit and found that they were 2.89's and I measured the new bearings when they got here and they were the 2.89's so I am really puzzled. I didn't really think to look before I tore it apart to check the cap seating, I just assumed that they were seated all the way tight. is this the way it is supposed to be or am I right to be concerned about them not seating all the way tight?
the problem I am having now is that everything looks good, nice and tight, rotates well, but after I torqued the bearing caps for the last time I noticed that the caps were still about 1/16" away from going completely to the housing. they are holding the races and adjusters tight, they are just a small amount away from the housing on the top and bottom on both sides. I double checked the bearing sizes before I bought the rebuild kit and found that they were 2.89's and I measured the new bearings when they got here and they were the 2.89's so I am really puzzled. I didn't really think to look before I tore it apart to check the cap seating, I just assumed that they were seated all the way tight. is this the way it is supposed to be or am I right to be concerned about them not seating all the way tight?
71 Bronco - twin sticked, full width, 2" lift, wristed arm, lots of rust...
http://www.catalystcycles.com
http://www.catalystcycles.com
yeah, they are the smallest that is why I am concerned. I was talking to a guy on pirate that said if it is a 28 or 31 spline 3rd that they use the 2.89's if you upgrade to more splines then you need the larger bearings.....not thinking that this was correct, because of an article I read, I came home and pulled it all apart and measured my self before I ordered my kit.....sire enough 2.89's I even checked the bearings when they showed up in the kit just so I wouldn't waist my time.
the contact on the bearing raceses and the caps/housing is solid it just has a gap between the housing and caps. I marked and taged all the bolts and both the caps when I took it apart so this is why I am scratching my head also. I am going to swap the caps to see if it makes it right but I don't think it will......the reason I say that is if they were swapped you would think that one would probably make contact and be loose and the other would probably be like it is now.
it is getting frustrating but I am just glad that I don't have to pull the bearings off or anything I can just reset the carrier using the retainers that screw in.
here is a pic:
the contact on the bearing raceses and the caps/housing is solid it just has a gap between the housing and caps. I marked and taged all the bolts and both the caps when I took it apart so this is why I am scratching my head also. I am going to swap the caps to see if it makes it right but I don't think it will......the reason I say that is if they were swapped you would think that one would probably make contact and be loose and the other would probably be like it is now.
it is getting frustrating but I am just glad that I don't have to pull the bearings off or anything I can just reset the carrier using the retainers that screw in.
here is a pic:
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- gear install 010.jpg (23.13 KiB) Viewed 2132 times
71 Bronco - twin sticked, full width, 2" lift, wristed arm, lots of rust...
http://www.catalystcycles.com
http://www.catalystcycles.com
That doesn't look right at all
You're not cross threaded on the adjusters are you? Both sides like that?
When you put it together, are you tightening the bearing cap, then adjusting the backlash?
Is it possible that the bearing isn't seated all the way on the spool, which then pushes the bearing race into the adjuster threads?
You're not cross threaded on the adjusters are you? Both sides like that?
When you put it together, are you tightening the bearing cap, then adjusting the backlash?
Is it possible that the bearing isn't seated all the way on the spool, which then pushes the bearing race into the adjuster threads?
both sides are like that.
the adjusters seem to be turning ok......I would losen the retaning bolts on the caps then screw them in and out to set the backlash. then tighten them down to hold everything in place. is that wrong?
I thought about the bearings not being seated on the spool also, but I am pretty sure they are on there all the way bacause I remeber checking when I got them on. I am going to check that when I take it apart tomarrow just to be sure.
the adjusters seem to be turning ok......I would losen the retaning bolts on the caps then screw them in and out to set the backlash. then tighten them down to hold everything in place. is that wrong?
I thought about the bearings not being seated on the spool also, but I am pretty sure they are on there all the way bacause I remeber checking when I got them on. I am going to check that when I take it apart tomarrow just to be sure.
71 Bronco - twin sticked, full width, 2" lift, wristed arm, lots of rust...
http://www.catalystcycles.com
http://www.catalystcycles.com
I'm not sure about the proper proceedure for setting backlash/preload. If the adjusters won't turn with the caps torqued, then I'd only loosen the bolts enough to let them turn.
If both sides are like that, It really sounds as if the caps are on the wrong side.........or wrong bearings.
Are both sides of the bearing caps like that? As in are you tighening the bolts evenly in stages?
Also I was wondering if you had to do any grinding?
If both sides are like that, It really sounds as if the caps are on the wrong side.........or wrong bearings.
Are both sides of the bearing caps like that? As in are you tighening the bolts evenly in stages?
Also I was wondering if you had to do any grinding?
that is basicly what I did. losen just enough to turn, then stage them down to spec. (60ft/lbs).
both caps are like that. spaced the same.
I had to grind on the pinion support a small amount and around the edge of the housing. inside the 3rd there is a casting defect that is in every case metal piece. it comes from where the mold is put together. I just had to grind that defect down and the gears had enough room to go in and move free. I took just enough to give about .30" of clearence just incase there was any bearing walk(incase of breakage or failure). thats what I always heard was aloted when people set up stroker cranks so I figured that it should work for this.
both caps are like that. spaced the same.
I had to grind on the pinion support a small amount and around the edge of the housing. inside the 3rd there is a casting defect that is in every case metal piece. it comes from where the mold is put together. I just had to grind that defect down and the gears had enough room to go in and move free. I took just enough to give about .30" of clearence just incase there was any bearing walk(incase of breakage or failure). thats what I always heard was aloted when people set up stroker cranks so I figured that it should work for this.
71 Bronco - twin sticked, full width, 2" lift, wristed arm, lots of rust...
http://www.catalystcycles.com
http://www.catalystcycles.com
I swapped the bearing caps and checked the bearings.....it got better but it still is a small amout away from the housing
I think I am going to walk away from it for a day or two and pull the 3rd in the Bronco on wed to see what it looks like........man, this is really getting to me, I tend to get frustrated when something like this happens so I do better to walk away and think about it for awhile.
I think I am going to walk away from it for a day or two and pull the 3rd in the Bronco on wed to see what it looks like........man, this is really getting to me, I tend to get frustrated when something like this happens so I do better to walk away and think about it for awhile.
71 Bronco - twin sticked, full width, 2" lift, wristed arm, lots of rust...
http://www.catalystcycles.com
http://www.catalystcycles.com
I don't really know what else to suggest. Pull the spool, and see how the caps bolt down without the bearings there. Maybe that 3rd member was screwed before you even started.
Maybe stick the old bearing races in there and see how it looks. Try the old bearing race with the new bearings and spool.
You should be able to tell which cap goes where by inspecting the fine machining lines and what not. They weren't stamped from the factory?
Maybe stick the old bearing races in there and see how it looks. Try the old bearing race with the new bearings and spool.
You should be able to tell which cap goes where by inspecting the fine machining lines and what not. They weren't stamped from the factory?
I will try it tonight and let you know. I hope the housing isn't junk. it is just the medium grade housing but I really don't want to clean another one this one, the gear oil had turned to grease type consitency......nasty.
there was some pretty bad carnage to the bearings on the pinion so I guess anything is possible.
there was some pretty bad carnage to the bearings on the pinion so I guess anything is possible.
71 Bronco - twin sticked, full width, 2" lift, wristed arm, lots of rust...
http://www.catalystcycles.com
http://www.catalystcycles.com