steering question

DBrown · Post by **DBrown** » Wed Nov 17, 2004 8:27 am

I was looking for the kit or info on flip the steering to the top if the knuckle instead of on the bottom. I'm not talking about putting the steering on top of the knuckle at the ball joint just flipping it in the same location. I was just looking for something to make the steering happy untill I get the cash to do the chevy knucle conversion. also I know I will need to drill and put an insert but will I need to mill the top of the knuckle?

b2binbad · Post by **b2binbad** » Wed Nov 17, 2004 3:36 pm

from everything I've heard and read, the ford 1/2 ton axle is not strong enough to drill and tap, especially after milling. The only thing that is strong enough is moving it to the top of the existing after drilling and using misalignment spacer/bushings. Here's a great write-up on Flat top knuckles. http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/flatop_knucles.html

DBrown · Post by **DBrown** » Wed Nov 17, 2004 4:46 pm

I'm not looking to do hysteer.....I just want to flip the tierods to the top of the same mounting location.

DBrown · Post by **DBrown** » Wed Nov 17, 2004 7:57 pm

I want my steering to look like this, right now the tie rod ends are on the bottom of the same mounting location.

hey matt, did you flip your's?

Post by **Nobody** » Wed Nov 17, 2004 8:20 pm

I'm using chevy knuckles that are factory reamed from the top. However, I'm probably going to switch back to EB knuckles because the steering arm is a little higher. The EB knuckles need to be reamed out. You also need to ream out the passenger TRE, so it will accept the drag link. The chevy stuff really is the way to go. The drag link ends are high misalignment, and allow for a lot of flex.

You can use an insert, but I prefer buying a reamer. BC Broncos sells one.
http://bcbroncos.com/store/product_info ... cts_id=142

You can find them other places for $80 or so.

I bought the taps to make my own tie rod and drag link. The left hand tap is a little hard to fine, and will cost another $80 or so. Right hand tap is about $30. The tube is about $5 per foot, and youll need 6 feet or so. And, you're probably looking at about $100 for all new TRE's. Or used ones are plentiful in the junk yards.

Reamer specs are 1.5" per foot
Tap specs are 7/8-18

Some of the fords knuckles are reamed out for larger TRE's, this can create a problem if you ream from the top. Also the 78-79 knuckles have the lowest steering arm of all. I personally wouldn't bother using them.

In the picture below, left is the for knuckles with the low arm. Center is an early bronco drum knuckle, and right is a scout knuckle, which isn't really useable without modification. The chevy knuckle falls in between the FS ford and EB knuckle.

b2binbad · Post by **b2binbad** » Wed Nov 17, 2004 8:34 pm

http://www.rockequipment.com/arms.htm This site shows the misalignment spacers and hiem joint ends you would need to make that kind of setup.
Here are some pictures of how its done and the tool needed. http://www.schu.net/gallery/album32
Or, if you've got the cash, James Duff has an entire kit. http://www.jamesduff.com/eb/steering.html I don't know if this kit will work for full width though. Hope this might help

DBrown · Post by **DBrown** » Wed Nov 17, 2004 8:40 pm

do you happen to know what the diameter of the different TRE's are?
do you think it would be safe to just ream and use what I have, or should I at least buy the insert and drill?
I know it would be better to get different knuckles but I realy need to spend the cash in different locations. going to buy more metal to fab some stuff tomarrow.

b2binbad · Post by **b2binbad** » Wed Nov 17, 2004 8:58 pm

I think the hole size on the rod ends are a standard 3/4 inch. The larger end of your existing hole on the knuckle is 7/8" I think. But you'd need the insert and tool for that hole since the TRE hole is 3/4", or if you decide to reuse your old setup the bolt size is 3/4".

Post by **Nobody** » Wed Nov 17, 2004 9:46 pm

That snap-on reamer is a piece of shit. I bought it, and it didn't work for shit. You want one with spiral flutes; like cutting through butter, and they last a long long time.

I'm not sure the diameter of the TRE's, but the DRE's are bigger, and the hole needs to be reamed deeper. Same taper...... Ford uses a differ taper. I wouldn't recommend the duff "kit".

FatMan · Post by **FatMan** » Thu Nov 18, 2004 12:41 am

Damn that Duff stuff is expensive. perdy reamer Nobody.

i just had a question sense you guy's are on the subject. what is TRE's and DRE's? just currious.

Post by **Nobody** » Thu Nov 18, 2004 9:51 am

Tie Rod End
Drag Link End

DBrown · Post by **DBrown** » Thu Nov 18, 2004 11:00 am

I realy wanted to use the stock stuff I have now. wasn't trying to swap everything out,what I am afraid of is having a whole that looks like this:

\ /
/ \

instead of this:

\ /

I think if I swap over to the chevy TRE's it will look more like the second one, but then I am getting into more then I wanted to.

I might just get a drop pitman arm and call it good untill I can drop some cash on what I want. that seems like it will turn into alote of cash, to not have exactly what I want.
Nobody, are you still making custom steering pieces?