Ok so I am starting to tear down the d44 to gut it and then cut the long side. I take off the automatic hub cover and take off the spring clip on the axle shaft. Next the axle shaft washer (inside splines fit over the shaft) and the damned thing wont come off. So I think ok a little pressure and it will break free. No go. I spray enough PB blast to kill a man and still nothing. I try to blue torch it on the washer to have it expand then big ass flathead behind it and still nothing. WTF?? There is nothing in the way of it sliding off the axle shaft spines. There cannot be a way for a thin washer to be so rusted on to the shaft that it wont come off is there??? I was so pissed I sprayed even more PB blast on it and put the freakin cover back on to let it sit.
Anyone else have this kind of problem with an automatic locking hub set up?
so you cant get the hub off??? if so i've seen d44's with 2 types of locks (dont know if it's standard or not). you have the snap ring lock and then there is a circle shape lock that is in a grove i think on the hub when i rebuilt my d44 i did'nt replace the circle lock. it's a pain in the but to get out.
Ill have to take a pic to explain. You guys are describing the auto/manual lockouts. This doesnt have the hex bolts holding it on. Its one with a press in cap (silver). You take it off like a 2wd hub. Inside its like a D28. You take off a snapring on the axle shaft itself. After the snap ring is a 1 1/2" washer with splines on the axle shaft just like the d28 has. This is what wont come off. The outside ring which the lockouts are held in by isnt on this setup.
Ok I got it out. On the 78/79 d44 the autohubs are a solid plug that locks the axle shaft and hub together. It fits in the hub and with the external splines and also spines for the axleshaft. The axle shaft splines were rusted together and took some force to get taken apart. I got it out so its not a problem. If you guys are still confused then I will take a pic when I get home tonight to explain WTF im talkin about.
Ok got it all off and shoved a rag into the axle tube. I then marked the placement of the cast wedge and axle tube. I then went to work grinding the weld off until I found the crack. It took me like 1 1/2 hrs to pound the HELL out of the cast wedge off. I had to use a torch to heat it up and PB blast to get it to come off. My hands and arms are sore after swinging the 8lb sledge for so long. It got dark so I had to stop there. I will get to cuttin the tube and puttin it back on either tomorrow or saturday.
How much shorter is the EB axle compaired to FS? I have heard 6" and 5.85" as well. That isnt really a big difference. I was guessing that 6" should be fine even if I had to buy an axle shaft for an EB. What do you guys think?
honestly I don't think less then a 1/4" will make that much of a difference, if you are just moving the c-wedges.
are you cutting the axle down or are you just moving the c-wedges in?
if you are cutting it down I would try to keep it at a length that you don't have to have custom axles made. if you can find the length of a EB shaft and a FS shaft take the difference of the two and it will give you the difference in the housing tube. do you have Mr. N's article on file?
71 Bronco - twin sticked, full width, 2" lift, wristed arm, lots of rust...
There is nothing in the way of it sliding off the axle shaft spines. There cannot be a way for a thin washer to be so rusted on to the shaft that it wont come off is there??? I was so pissed I sprayed even more PB blast on it and put the freakin cover back on to let it sit.
