It finally broke.

[onewontwo]

My rear driveshaft, the tulip style finally broke after hours and hours of abuse. I want to upgrade my front and rear shaft with out changing my BW1350 transfer case. I have a D44 front and a 8.8" rear. I would like to change the front output on the t-case from a slip yoke to a fixed style. I would also like to eliminate the flat flanges on the rear shaft so I can get it as long as possible, unless you recommend the flanges for stregnth purposes. I would like my front/ rear shaft to incorpate a slip joint and a double cardian joint.

I want to do this via the junkyard, so any help on years, make, models, etc. would be great.

I know there are many topics about this but I feel my question is more unique and I couldn't find a straight answer. Thanks alot!

[vabronconut]

all ford truck and full size bronco shafts from 1980 to 1996 use the shaft that you need. you may need to have them resized but they are very strong

[DZK007]

I have the rear driveshaft you might like.
I lifted mine by putting the rear springs under the frame rails and used an 8.8 rear diffy. This gave me approx 5-6" of lift with wipped flat springs and tons of rear flex.

I have a double cardan shaft with the 8.8 flange at the tail end and it bolts right to the yoke output on a 1350 T-case.
This shaft is tough and would serve you well for years to come. $150.00 + if you want it

I lifted the front a good 4-5" with various brackets, springs and homemade stuff but I never had a problem with the front shaft in mine. I don't think your D-44 will be that much different from my D-35 and I'm wondering what your reasoning is on this one.

[onewontwo]

all ford truck and full size bronco shafts from 1980 to 1996 use the shaft that you need. you may need to have them resized but they are very strong

Thanks, and this will bolt up to the flanges on my 1350/8.8 once it is resized?

What about the front shaft? Can I grab one off of those trucks as well? The reason I want to upgrade the front is because I had to grind it very far so it wouldnt bind to make up for my lift and it is no where near balanced and has a lot of vibration. Once the vibration starts I feel like my front driveshaft is going to self destruct. Can I have a slip yoke on my transfer case and still have a slip-joint on my d-shaft?

I have the rear driveshaft you might like.
I lifted mine by putting the rear springs under the frame rails and used an 8.8 rear diffy. This gave me approx 5-6" of lift with wipped flat springs and tons of rear flex.

I have a double cardan shaft with the 8.8 flange at the tail end and it bolts right to the yoke output on a 1350 T-case.
This shaft is tough and would serve you well for years to come. $150.00 + if you want it

I lifted the front a good 4-5" with various brackets, springs and homemade stuff but I never had a problem with the front shaft in mine. I don't think your D-44 will be that much different from my D-35 and I'm wondering what your reasoning is on this one.

What size u-joints are on your shaft? Does it have the slip-joint on the shaft? Thanks

[DZK007]

What size u-joints are on your shaft? Does it have the slip-joint on the shaft? Thanks

The rear shaft I have is set up with the double cardan joint that bolts to the yoke on a 1350 T-case. The tail end has the larger slipjoint and flange to mate with the 8.8 rear diffy I put in. The length worked real well with the 6" of lift I had done on the back. It's a custom shaft and cost me $250 not too long ago.
The only reason I'm selling it is it won't fit my '91 Exploder - my new trail whore.

E-mail me for pics; dzk007 at yahoo.com

[onewontwo]

I have the rear shaft figured out. I still need advice on a front shaft with a double cardian joint, and an answer to the slip joint/ slip yoke question.

[DZK007]

Seeing what you are doing with the front shaft, I have a couple things to add.

Look to see if your Tranny crossmember can mount in a lower spot. Mine had a choice of 2 different mounting heights and I used the lower one to lessen driveline angle. It's only like 2" but will make a difference. See if you can lower the engine in the cradle as well. It will lower the center of gravity which is a big +.
A driveshaft can pretty much only have 1 slip joint, there is a way to slot and pin a slipjoint located in the shaft but you would need a boot to cover the whole joint area to keep the dirt out. You would also need to figure out how to limit the travel of the slipjoint into the tranny. Gets to be a bit much moneywise and the slot & pin job reduces strength a bit.
I have seen shafts with 2 extendable joints (one at each end between the U-joints ) with the slot job I mentioned but they are prettymuch just for crawlin. once you get them spinning a bit they runnout and vibrate.
One of the reasons I went to an 8.8 rear diffy was for the bigger joint that "bends" more.

[onewontwo]

If I mount my tranny any lower it won't go into park. So I need to peice together a drive shaft of at least find a double cardian joint to make a stock one work once cut down. What size u-joints does my stock '88 front driveshaft have? Where can I find a double cardian joint that has the same size u-joint? Thanks.

[onewontwo]

Any last advice on my front d-shaft problem? What size u-joint a stock '88 has and where to find a double cardian joint with the same size joints.

Heading to the junkyard tomorrow. Hopefully I come back with some good stuff.