Suspension Lift

allen_the_music_man · Post by **allen_the_music_man** » Fri Sep 22, 2006 8:28 am

Hey guys. I've got a 1988 Bronco II 4x4. Everything on it's stock. The engine was replaced a year ago with another engine of the same (2.9L) because the very first owners of it didn't care about what they had. I've been hesitant on doing anything to my truck until I get some good opinions about the things I have planned.

I wanna put about a 2" or 3" suspension lift on it and some bigger tires. Now, I'm not really a body-kinda guy. I've always just worked on engines and trannys...that's it. All this lifting and stuff is totally new to me. I'd like to know about how ya'll did ya'lls lifts and all. What all is involved when doing this kind of work? New driveshafts? Regearing? I've read a few things on doing this job, but I'd like to know what you all ran into when lifting your Bronco.

Any suggestion, "testimonial", etc. will be greatly appreciated.

~Allen

Phillippi · Post by **Phillippi** » Fri Sep 22, 2006 10:24 pm

The lifts are very easy. All you have to do is unbolt/grind rivots of the stock drop brackets for the front diff. Then replace drop brackets with new ones from lift. The same with the rivots for the radius arm brackets and use new ones with bolts. The springs are easy to take off with one big bolt, then replace as well with new springs.

As far as regearing, it depends on what ratio you have now and how big of tires you are going too. Also depends on what kind of wheeling you are going to do.

Driveshafts should not need replaced if 4" or less of lift. You might need extended brakelines for the front, but you will have to install the lift and then cycle the suspension and see what its like. I hope this helps.

allen_the_music_man · Post by **allen_the_music_man** » Sat Sep 23, 2006 4:00 am

Thanks for the reply.

Ok. Let's say I wanted a 6" lift...I can already tell that there's probably a little bit of work ahead of me...what kind of hidden work would be there for me on this?

Phillippi · Post by **Phillippi** » Sun Sep 24, 2006 2:19 am

with a 6" lift, shafts (most likely), brake lines will need to be replaced. You also will be having a fun time getting the front end aligned as well. This lift has been done lots before, so it shouldnt be too difficult.

allen_the_music_man · Post by **allen_the_music_man** » Sun Sep 24, 2006 6:09 pm

Man, I really appreciate the posts. I've never been the "body" guy.

Ok. So for a 3" lift, its:
- Possible regear depending upon the size of tire and type of offroading
- Possibly extending the front brake lines

For a 6", it's:
- Definitely redo the brakes
- Definitely replace the driveshaft or extend it
- Align the front end

Just makin sure I'm not missing anything...'cause I'd hate to start on the project and get halfway through it just to realize something's not workin right...

twobit66 · Post by **twobit66** » Mon Sep 25, 2006 6:30 am

for a 3" u need a steering extention. don't need to worry about the brake line for a 3" there's usally a coil of line under the master cylnder the will uncoil a little when u raise it up. if u have a manual tranny make sure the clutch line has enough slack. and u'll have to make some kind of extention for the shifter for a stick too.

-body kit
-should have steering extention with it
-don't worry about brake line with the 3"
-check clutch line
-shifter extention (the tranny with be lower)

DBrown · Post by **DBrown** » Mon Sep 25, 2006 2:10 pm

he is talking about doing a suspension lift not a body lift...

any time you go with a larger tire you sould look into getting the gearing right. you will probably have either 3.45's or 3.73's in there now. I would go up one step if you go to a 31" and two if you go to a 32" or 33"

I had 31's in my BII with a 4.0L and stock 3.73's so I swapped up to 4.10's and it was a big help...

- you will need to extend the lines for a 3" lift.
- if you do not upgrade to a better drive shaft then the stock CV style you are asking for a tow truck to come and get you...(unless you lock in the hubs and go slow)
- you will need new shocks
- drop pitman arm

allen_the_music_man · Post by **allen_the_music_man** » Mon Sep 25, 2006 7:40 pm

Dude, guys, ya'll just don't know how much ya'll are helpin me out...there'da been no way I'da ever figured this out just jumpin right into the project...

Ok. So while on the subject of gearing and bigger tires, let me ask this: if at any time I were to go to a larger tire, I would have to regear my diffs? There's not a certain size tire that goes with a certain amount of lift that will not require gearing? I guess that's the part I'm confused on...I guess I feel dumb that I kept my head under the hood all this time and didn't stick my head under the truck long enough to figure out what all was under there...

And as far as the driveshaft goes, you suggest I go to the U joint style shafts over the stock CVs? If so, about how long (if you think you could give me a number...)?

Ok. Now, I know I should've mentioned this on my first post, but the kind of driving I will be doing is mostly on the asphualt roads and highways and in mud. I'm not into all that rock climbing stuff (though it's great fun!). Does this make any difference in anything that's already been told to me?

texastud1983 · Post by **texastud1983** » Tue Sep 26, 2006 5:57 pm

ok allen, your on the right track, allways research and plan ahead before starting a project, but things allways come up and get in the way.
As for a drive shaft, defenently get you a new u-joint style shaft for the rear. As for the length, the best thing would be to take some measurements after you install your lift.
The size of tires you can go with depends on the size of lift you go with. A four inch lift, i'd go with 32's or a six inch lift i'd go with 33's, unless you don't mind doing a little bit of fender trimming. The first lift I ever went with was a four inch with 33's, never had any problems on the road but once offroad my fenders got all bent up and my tires got cut.
Of course once you put bigger tires on there you gas milage will go down
and once you get gears it will do nothing but get worse.
So will 33's I could wheel it pritty good, but in 4 high, that little V6 had a had time spinning thoughs tire. So I pretty much keep it in 4 low, couldn't even go up a hill with out it.
Now once I went with 4.56 gears front and rear it had a little bit more torque that it did with the stock tires. I couldn't do a brake stand (you know a burn out) when it was stock but once I got the 4.56 in with the 33's I could. Another thing is, dont ever go with a locker in the front (dana 28.) No one makes a posi unit for the front either. A locker in the small axle would be a wast of money.
Oh yah, I almost forgot. Good luck finding a set of gears for the front dana 28 anyways, other than the stock ratio, they stoped making them. Because they are crap.
For brake lines, with a four inch lift, with your suspencion at full drop you brake lines will be maxed out, so they wont last long. If you tear a brake line or put a hole in then that is really dangerous. No stoppy stoppy.
For a six inch lift, extended brake line are a must. A good set of stainless braided lines are around 70 or 80 bucks.
Ok twobit66 was talking about all the things you need for a 3" lift. He was talking about a 3" inch body lift. I've had a body lift before and my idea of them is that they are cheap and they look like crap.
Got any more question just ask away.
texasstud201983@yahoo.com

allen_the_music_man · Post by **allen_the_music_man** » Wed Sep 27, 2006 5:25 am

Thanks, texastud! That was very helpful!

I agree. I've seen many body lifts but on F-150s and Rangers and it was ugly...I don't think I would ever put a body lift on my Bronco II without having a suspension lift on it first. And even then, I probably wouldn't put more than a 2" lift on the body.

Ok. So here's the breakdown that's I'm getting from the thread:

3" Lift

Gears- Okie, so with a 3" lift, I'll definitely have to regear the diffs?

Brake Lines- I don't have a problem with doing brakes. I've done brakes many times in the past and it's probably the only thing unrelated to engine repair I can actually do fairly well!

If I raise it and it looks like I'll have to extend them, I'll do it...

Tire Size- I'm guessin a set of 31's will do it...? Suggestions on this?

Driveshaft- With a 3" lift, do I have to do anything with the driveshaft? I know I'm definitely gonna go out and get a U joint driveshaft. There's no question about it. I wanna do this thing right the first time and not be stranded on the side of the road the first time I hit the gas...but roughly about what length should it be with a 3" lift?

4" Lift

Gears- Will I definitely have to regear?

Brake Lines- Still not a problem either way it goes here...

Tire Size- Ok. So texastud says I ought to think about puttin 32's on her. Ya think so?

Driveshaft- Same as above...about how long should it be with a 4" lift?

6" Lift

Gears- Am I wrong at saying this is a must to regear at 6"?

Brake Lines- No prob...

Tire Size- texastud says about a 33 with a little fender well trimmin...how about without trimmin? Should I stick with the 32's to keep from trimmin?

Driveshaft- Oh yeah. I know I'm gonna have to do something about this. But what length am I lookin to getting with a 6" lift?

Gosh, you guys are helpin me out so much. I appreciate it so much.

DBrown · Post by **DBrown** » Wed Sep 27, 2006 12:15 pm

to clear up the gear thing, it is not in relation to the lift it is in relation to the thire size. when people talk about ratio's we say stuff like 3.73' or 4.10's...this means the driveshaft turns that number of times the for every rotation of the wheel.

gear ratio can becalculated by counting the number of the teeth on the pinion and the number of teeth on the ring and dividing the ring number by the pinion number.

the reason the gears need to be changed:
if you take a tape measure and measure the length of the tread in one rotation you will notice that a 31" tire will have more length then a 29".

because of this the motor is having to work harder to rotate the larger tire. so if you change the ratio to a numericly higher number then the drive shaft will rotate more times per tire rotation but travel more in the one rotation.

confused? it is kind of a rotation of the drive shaft per distance traveled ratio you want to stick with. if you go with numericly to high of a gear it will give you more take off power but less top end(high way RPMs) if you have numericly to low of a gear it will kill performance, your tranny, and your clutch if you have a manual.

I did a 3" suspension lift and needed lines so plan on them. I also had a James Duff driveshaft up grade and had no problems with my rear shaft after the lift. the front I never changed.

allen_the_music_man · Wed Sep 27, 2006 12:52 pm

Gosh, man now that you to me that, I feel so stupid!

I had learned that in physics learning about transfer of energy, direction of movement and ratios! Gosh...but I'm glad you told me!

So I have an axle ratio of 3.73. If I throw on a 6" lift and put some 32's on it, will I have to do an axle swap? If so, to what gear ration would be a good one to switch to? What about the front axle? I've got a 4wd Bronco II, just as a reminder...

And while on the subject of the front axle, when I lift it, will I have to do anything to the front driveshaft?

Again, I can't express my appreciation for everybody's tips and suggestions. Thanks a million!

DBrown · Post by **DBrown** » Wed Sep 27, 2006 2:14 pm

honestly I would not throw too much money at the D28. if I were in your situation I would probably look for a a 4.10 geared D28 or D35 and go with that. D35's are known to be close to the strength as a D44. the 4.10 was a factory option so they are out there you just got to look.

with a 3-4" lift I think you will be ok...if you go 6" you will probably need to address the issue.

texastud1983 · Post by **texastud1983** » Wed Sep 27, 2006 3:01 pm

Allen, you can go with 33's with a six inch lift. But if you go with a four inch lift you can fit 33's also but your tires will rub your finders, that where the trimming comes in.
I agree with DBrown, I wouldn't waste anymoney in the dana 28. In the future do some research and find you a dana 35 of an old Exploder.

twobit66 · Post by **twobit66** » Wed Sep 27, 2006 7:23 pm

FOR THE RECORD .i've had a set of d35 3.73 waiting for a while and my D28 3.45 with 32/12.5's has taken ALOT of punishment with no problems almost indestructable. i will say that the d35's are awsome but the d28 isn't as bad as everyone seems to make of it. and with 4" lift 32/12.5 with 3.45 gears i've had to do NOTHING. unhooked the brake line from the frame so it gives more room. and i don't ahve the CV style axles but i didn't have to do anything with the driveline eather. had plenty of power when the 2.9 was in it to push. 75+ on a good incline.

just speaking from what i've seen.