84 bronco won't start

vicsbronco · Post by **vicsbronco** » Wed Dec 07, 2005 6:13 am

Hello, guys!
I'm new to Bronco's. Just recently bought an 84 Bronco II..
It was missing ignition lock. I installed that, fixed some stuff around, changed all fluids, but now it won't start- engine cranks, carburator gets gas, spark is there from ignition coil, but there is no spark from distributor to the plug.
Is this a TFI problem, or ignition switch? Previous owner was using a screwdriver to start it. Now I can't start it at all.
Any ideas will be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!

Post by **Nobody** » Wed Dec 07, 2005 6:35 am

If you are getting spark at the coil, but not at the plugs, then your problem would have to be the in the wires, cap, rotor. Since you are getting spark at the coil, then the TFI is working.

I suspect you probably are getting spark at the plug. How did you check it?

If you turn the key to the run position, then jump the starter solenoid with a screwdriver, does it start?

vicsbronco · Post by **vicsbronco** » Wed Dec 07, 2005 7:02 am

I have a spark tester. When I connected it between the coil and the coil wire, I see a spark when cranking the engine. Then I connected a tester between distributor and the plug wire. Jumping a a solenoid (I just disconnected wire to the starter, and jumped to the other end of solenoid), I see no spark when engine cranks.

Post by **Nobody** » Wed Dec 07, 2005 7:17 am

Have inspected the cap and rotor? I've had the metal contact on the rotor fall off before.

vicsbronco · Post by **vicsbronco** » Wed Dec 07, 2005 7:30 am

I will today, thanks a lot. I got a new cap and rotor, but didn't get to it yesterday-just gave up. I bought it last week, towed it home. Towing guy had a jumper wires, so we started it by 2 scredrivers (one for ignition, one for solenoid), I drove it 10 yard to my garage. Never started again after that.
I like it a lot and hoping to drive it soon.
There is also brake fluid leak between master cylinder and vacuum unit- shouls I try tighten it or look for replacement? Brake fluid bleeding is next on the list, but after I start and drive this little boy.
Thanks a lot for your help!

Post by **Nobody** » Wed Dec 07, 2005 7:37 am

Check out that cap and rotor, hopefully that's it. I really don't see how it can be anything else since you have spark at the coil. The cap and rotor is what bridges the physical connection from coil wire to plug wire.

On the leak, there is nothing to tighten. If it's leaking brake fluid, you'll need to replace the master cylinder.

vicsbronco · Post by **vicsbronco** » Wed Dec 07, 2005 7:53 am

Nobody, thanks a lot for your help!
I have to ask couple more questions:
- air charge temperature sensor in thr carburator is missing- is that a big deal?
- since I'll be changing brake master cylinder, I want to change brake lines too (too rusted, too risky). Are they metric? What size?

Post by **Nobody** » Wed Dec 07, 2005 8:34 am

If it runs, then it's not a big deal

Actually, all that stuff is designed to work together. If something is missing, your gas milage will probably suffer. The problem is replacing that stuff can get expensive quick, in which case you'd be better off converting to a non-emissions carb and duraspark iginition. If you have smog testing, then that's not really and option either. You could always drop in a fuel injected 4.0L though!

Brakes lines are 3/16. The problem you will run into is the OEM lines use different size flare nuts. You can get adapters, but that's a pain. You can make your own lines, but they have to be double flared, and I have yet to find a tool that can do a double flare successfully.

vicsbronco · Post by **vicsbronco** » Wed Dec 07, 2005 8:42 am

Depending on how itl runs I will decide if duraspark is an option (new distributor from Pinto is cheaper then TFI unit- what a deal!). I'm in PA and 84 is emmision exempt (still paying for the sticker though!). I did some research on 4.0l - I like it. What year is good for my boy? I can buy wrecked Ford from goverment auction.

As for brakes, I guess I have to do those lines one by one.

Post by **Nobody** » Wed Dec 07, 2005 8:48 am

Check out Dbrowns 4.0L swap here
http://www.broncoii4x4.com/4.0L-swap/4.0L-swap.php

Ultimately I recommend a V8 swap, but the 4.0L swap will be easier and cheaper.

ranger5.0 · Post by **ranger5.0** » Fri Dec 09, 2005 8:09 am

I have removed all those parts off the 2.8 and it would run pretty good.I left the o2 sensor and the temp sensor. Removed all the vacuum lines. bypassed the EGR with a block off plate. cut and welded the smog tube pipes in the back of the exhaust manifolds. got a smaller fan belt and removed the smog pump. changed the chrismas tree in the back of the intake manifold to a one port. It is a lot of work but they will run good and open up. Maybe check the valve lash. if the plugs aren't wet then the valves might not be opening foar enough. 12,000 miles or 12 months according to the manual. int .014- ext .016. good luck

garagedude · Post by **garagedude** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 12:40 pm

Hay "vicsbronco, Just joined also. AND..I also have an 84 that has had this same thing happen. wouldn't start, then started, then wouldn't, finally just wouldn't start at all. I had recently had it tuned up with new cap,rotor, plugs, I just couldn't understand it. So one day I got mad, took the rotor out, cleaned off the carbon from the end of the rotor, and its been running since. please let me know for my good what you find out. I'm going duraspark when the winter is over and going with msd. I really feel the stock coil is weak and would benefit from a hotter spark.

BIG Z DUDE · Post by **BIG Z DUDE** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 1:01 pm

mine has been runing strong for 5 years with the computer unpluged

vicsbronco · Post by **vicsbronco** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 2:08 pm

Damn! Still no start!

Can somebody look up wires by color code coming from ignition switch connector ( located under brake master cylinder)? I have 5-or 6 wires connected to one- doesn't look right!

One more question- is there a way to bypass TFI for a moment to try to start it? Maybe my spark is weak? What's that Push Start? I don't have it in automatic, do I?

ranger5.0 · Post by **ranger5.0** » Sat Dec 10, 2005 9:43 pm

the distributor will not work if it is unplugged and the distributor will not work if the computer is unplugged. I did the duraspark conversion and it failed twice. Then I got a Mallory unilite distributor and had zero probelms. It was actually the best performance I got out of the motor and it allowed it to rev to 7000+ rpms. I think that your TFI module has probably failed. I don't recall you saying that you had replaced it.

BTW you will not push start that automatic.