Help! Bronco II has no power when engine is warm.

Ask technical questions about your Ford Bronco II here. Technical write-ups on your axle swaps, engine swaps, chop tops, etc. are encouraged.
amberbrush
Posts: 29
Joined: Mon Jun 25, 2007 8:53 am

Post by amberbrush »

Thanks for the suggestion. I will see if I can determine if that is the problem tonight. How did you know it was the problem with yours? When I pull off the rocker what should I look for that would tell me that is the problem?
DBrown
Posts: 1545
Joined: Mon Apr 19, 2004 5:21 am
Location: Bowling Green, KY

Post by DBrown »

wait, before you go tearing into the valve covers replace the coolent temp. sensor. it is a 2 wire sensore on the front of the intake. this has been known to do the same thing that you have described. they are around $15 at auto zone.

when this part goes bad it will not throw a check engine light. it will just keep telling the motor it is cold and make the motor run rich when warm.

if you look in your repair manual it will show you how to check it with a volt meter. you will basicly check it cold then check it after letting it warm up in some water.

when you start opening the valve covers you are going to start spending more then just a little money. I alway try to rule out the simple cheap stuff first...
71 Bronco - twin sticked, full width, 2" lift, wristed arm, lots of rust...

http://www.catalystcycles.com
amberbrush
Posts: 29
Joined: Mon Jun 25, 2007 8:53 am

Post by amberbrush »

I have already replaced the temp. sensor with no luck. It still runs exactly the same.
DBrown
Posts: 1545
Joined: Mon Apr 19, 2004 5:21 am
Location: Bowling Green, KY

Post by DBrown »

the coolent temp sensor and the guage sending unit are two totaly different sensors. I havent looked at a 2.9L lately but if I remeber correctly they are the same sensore but there is two of the exact same sensor on the front of the intake one talks to the ECM and talks to the guage on the dash. I know 100% that this is the way it is on the 4.0L but like I said I have not looked at a 2.9L in awhile
71 Bronco - twin sticked, full width, 2" lift, wristed arm, lots of rust...

http://www.catalystcycles.com
Paul
Posts: 231
Joined: Tue May 01, 2007 4:57 am
Location: Marysville, Indiana
Contact:

Post by Paul »

well your right about that on the 4.0, and when i changed from my 2.9 i noticed it, but yeah there is 2 on the 2.9.
1989 Bronco II 4x4
Mitsubishi 146 5 speed,
Stock D35
235/75/15
4.0L upgrade
NO LIFT
Crop Top
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PHROX
Posts: 95
Joined: Wed Apr 28, 2004 3:01 pm
Location: salt Lake City
Contact:

Post by PHROX »

ok, here we go. first get a manual or something showing the proper clearences. then pull the valve covers off. use a feeler guage to check the clearences. to adjust there is a lock nut an an adjusting nut at each valve. make sure the piston is in either a copression or power cycle so that the valves are not in action. it should be pretty easy to find which valve is out.
1987 Bronco2, d44/9" locked, sweet paint job. Now with available 5.0
johnnyrotten
Posts: 1
Joined: Sun Oct 14, 2007 7:34 am

1988 Bronco II Cuts out, missing,no power

Post by johnnyrotten »

I found the red wire out of the socket in the multi wired plug under the eec relay I beleive pushed it back up and in the plug. This was after an week long extensive chase for gremlins, and several parts I didnt need
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