OK now what?

Post by **Nobody** » Fri Jul 23, 2004 10:51 pm

I disagree about setting caster. All you have to is scribe a line on the tube. Mark the knuckle, lop off six inches, line up the marks and weld er up.

I also believe that the wedges are cast steel, not cast iron. Same as the radius arms...... I'm fairly certain, but not positive.

Rockcrawler · Post by **Rockcrawler** » Fri Jul 23, 2004 11:09 pm

most knuckles are cast iron and sense the wedges are connected to the knuckles they will most likely be cast iron. i would just not go with the cast wedges at all because you can change you pinion angle at all because you will move the kunckes to. I had a problem with the HP hitting my header. just a thought.

FatMan · Post by **FatMan** » Fri Jul 23, 2004 11:17 pm

Rockcrawler Posted: Fri Jul 23, 2004 10:42 pm Post subject:

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the ford dana 44 5 lug is alot larger then the ford 8.8 lug 5 lug

the fullsize d44 5 lug is the same as the fullsize 8.8 5 lug.

Nobody Posted: Fri Jul 23, 2004 10:08 pm Post subject:

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Pick one....anything else is ghetto in my opinion.

HEY WHAT YOU TALK'N BOUT WILLIS!!!! i love my rig

Phillippi · Post by **Phillippi** » Sat Jul 24, 2004 12:39 am

keeping my options open, how much would it cost for a new long side axle shaft for eb? I take it you would only be cuting one side and after the section is taken out the axle is eb legnth and it would line up with our smaller frame?!?! Thanks for all my questions.

FatMan · Post by **FatMan** » Sat Jul 24, 2004 12:58 am

you can have the long side axle shaft you have cut down. you can also hae the ttb long side axle cut down . then you'll have spares for both sides.
we'll support ya what ever choice you make Phillippi

Phillippi · Post by **Phillippi** » Sat Jul 24, 2004 1:27 am

ok FS v EB Dana44
FS pro's
WIder stance
cheap only $100
I have a fs 8.8 to match

FS con's
only 3.50 gears
no locker (could weld rear)
cast wedges
coil buckets wider then frame possiblity of tire rubbing

EB pro's
Keep rear detroit
keep width (no flares which I hate, also good for narrow mountain trails)
worth more then FS if I decide to sell (everyone wants an eb dana44 ive found around here)

EB con's
id have to buy 4.56 gears to match rear (around $125 or so)
Id have to cut down the axle tube which looks doable as the instructions given (im pretty sure I could do it)
id have to cut down the long shafts (unknow price and unknown location to have done)

I know the lists will grow, but I have to visualize them to get a idea of every option...

b2binbad · Post by **b2binbad** » Sat Jul 24, 2004 12:46 pm

I consider my B2 a toy. I don't plan on selling it, just play with it. I chose the "ghetto" route because that's what works for me. I've got under a 1000 in my truck and it works fine as a toy. I don't plan on entering it into any show and shine contest or have a magazine do a write up on it. I say if money is tight like in our house, do what works for you. If it's ghetto, so be it.
--L

Phillippi · Post by **Phillippi** » Sat Jul 24, 2004 1:44 pm

Well I had another thought. Judging on how much people are paying around here for eb dana44s I could cut it down and use it. Then when/if I ever think I need dana60s or unimog 404s then I can sell it for alot more then I bought it and cut it down for. Just another thing for me to sort through. And of course I have to go to work AGAIN!.....

Phillippi · Post by **Phillippi** » Sat Jul 24, 2004 2:51 pm

OK I just went to check out the hp d44 and it looks pretty good. It does appear to be cast steel no iron. Iron has more of a grainy metal like stock sxhaust manifolds. the wedges were scraped and it looked like steel to me and the seller.

Also how much play is acceptable in the yoke while turning it? The yoke would spin a small amount before turning the hubs. Thanks

FatMan · Post by **FatMan** » Sat Jul 24, 2004 3:19 pm

there is a small amount of play i dont know how much as far as measurement but i dont think it would matter as you'll be changing gear's anyway .

Post by **Nobody** » Sun Jul 25, 2004 7:31 am

b2binbad wrote:I consider my B2 a toy. I don't plan on selling it, just play with it. I chose the "ghetto" route because that's what works for me. I've got under a 1000 in my truck and it works fine as a toy. I don't plan on entering it into any show and shine contest or have a magazine do a write up on it. I say if money is tight like in our house, do what works for you. If it's ghetto, so be it.
--L

Don't get me wrong. I'm the first to say my bronco is one big pile of shit. It's one thing when you work with what you have, I'm all for it. But to go out and buy the wrong parts, and then try to make them work, doesn't make sense to me. Moving the coil buckets out is definately debateable.

b2binbad · Post by **b2binbad** » Sun Jul 25, 2004 3:44 pm

cool no problem
--L

FatMan · Post by **FatMan** » Sun Jul 25, 2004 6:06 pm

Nobody Posted: Sun Jul 25, 2004 7:31 am Post subject:

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Don't get me wrong. I'm the first to say my bronco is one big pile of shit. It's one thing when you work with what you have, I'm all for it. But to go out and buy the wrong parts, and then try to make them work, doesn't make sense to me. Moving the coil buckets out is definately debateable

i love your rig that thing is bad a$$.
if i had the money to build the eb stuff i have i would have definitely gone that route. in the back of my head im almost tempted to do another b2. i hate the fact that i cant play with my rig becuz it's not street legal, but at the time i wanted to play and doing the body swap was the most reasonable thing for my wallet. i agree there are better way's of setting up the front then bucket spacers. but you do what you have to do. just my $.02