steering

wilber · Post by **wilber** » Sat Apr 01, 2006 4:45 pm

I have a fullwidth hp 44 in the front of my b2, the stock tie rod is bent in a u shape

and its 100bucks from autozone. There is no doubt in my mind i will break another. My question is what steering should i go with? Its trail only rig. I have 12' of 1.5" dom to use. Should i go with heims and drill out the knuckels? Or should i get some one ton tre's. What do you guys think.

mccutcheon4 · Post by **mccutcheon4** » Sun Apr 02, 2006 10:16 am

This is not an answer to yuor question, sorry. I have a question for you though,
How did you mount the hp44 in your B2 ? Coils, leafs, or ? We want to be able drive it on the street still.

Thanks

alx · Post by **alx** » Sun Apr 02, 2006 3:27 pm

dont even fawk with the heims

go with the chevy TRE's and be done with it

wilber · Post by **wilber** » Sun Apr 02, 2006 6:58 pm

why would i liseten to a newbie like you.....

what is the cost of the chevy 1 tons, can i mount them stock, or do i have to ream for them

ranger5.0 · Post by **ranger5.0** » Sun Apr 02, 2006 10:41 pm

You will have to ream them.(for the chevy parts) But they might be cheaper in the long run. EBSteve buys his with life time warrenties. So they are replaced for cheap or nothing at all.

Phillippi · Post by **Phillippi** » Sun Apr 02, 2006 11:05 pm

alx wrote:dont even fawk with the heims go with the chevy TRE's and be done with it

Another lost sheep returns home. How are you alex?

Anyway, if I had the time and $$$ (I already have the ford stuff) I would go with the cheby.

Post by **Nobody** » Mon Apr 03, 2006 7:27 am

I run the chevy stuff and have been very happy. As far as I'm concerned, it's the only way to go. Especially if you buy the tools to make your own.

The 1.5 DOM is overkill. Even with the standard 1.25 DOM, you'll find the TRE's will bend/break before the tube bends.

Check this link for lots of info
http://www.broncofix.com/about89.html

You can tool up for about $200. That's a Reamer, and left and right hand taps. Then you'll need some tube and and the TRE's I initially saved myself a few bucks by running junkyard ends.

You can tap the .812 ID directly, but it's tight, and you have to be careful not to screw up your taps. Good quality taps help.

Your other option is to buy the weld-in threaded inserts.

Yes, you will need a reamer. One of the tie's needs to be reamed so the drag link can connect. It's also a good time to ream the knuckles from the top so you can flip your tire rod.

Even better, get yourself some drum brake knuckles, since they have a higher steering arm (center). Of course then you have to do the chevy disc conversion.

DBrown · Post by **DBrown** » Mon Apr 03, 2006 12:06 pm

I agree with Nobody, if you are running the ford disk brake stuff on the D44 sell your knuckle out to an EB guy who just cares about the disks and go with the EB knuckle and chevy conversion. the chevy TRE conversion is a good reliable setup.

I plan to set up my full width front this way...

wilber · Post by **wilber** » Mon Apr 03, 2006 4:23 pm

for the moment im trying to find a cheap way to get my steering back. ill see what is available at the swap meet this sunday.

i have the ford discs on it now, couldnt find the chevy spindles for a good price. i still have the eb knuckles though.

thanks for the input guys