Well this is what I have so far.
http://www.mappyjack.com/Dana44.htm
Basicly I used the 35 TTB knuckle. The 75 up GM brakes. And the 76-86 Bronco hub and rotor.
44 outers on the 35 TTB (my way)
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so you used the GM caliper brackets, GM small bearing spindals, and ford hub and rotor assembly...man, now that is what I call thinking outside the box.
did you think about welding over the hole's instead of doing the JB weld thing?
I would say that is probably the best upgrade for a D35 I have seen because that would eliminate the problem with the bearings being too close.
good job!
did you think about welding over the hole's instead of doing the JB weld thing?
I would say that is probably the best upgrade for a D35 I have seen because that would eliminate the problem with the bearings being too close.
good job!
71 Bronco - twin sticked, full width, 2" lift, wristed arm, lots of rust...
http://www.catalystcycles.com
http://www.catalystcycles.com
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I don't weld so I'd have to have it done. The machine shop that drilled the knuckle does welding but didn't want to weld it for some reason. So I just cut the plugs and used the JB to hold them in.
I had read over the past few years about the 44 TTB knuckle install on the 35 TTB. But there were questions about locating the center of the knuckle with the 35 TTB. Never saw that answered. Read the 44 TTB knuckle on the 35 TTB was said to be for off-road use only. Some folks over on Rick's Serious X site are doing it that way though. Guess time will tell if they have problems. If I had some way to measure accurately the outer spindle center on the 35 TTB and could make sure the 44 TTB spindle went to the same place and kept proper ball joint retention, then that's what I would have done.
I decided this was best for me as my truck will be driven on the highway and keeps the stock critical ball joint and steering.
I had read over the past few years about the 44 TTB knuckle install on the 35 TTB. But there were questions about locating the center of the knuckle with the 35 TTB. Never saw that answered. Read the 44 TTB knuckle on the 35 TTB was said to be for off-road use only. Some folks over on Rick's Serious X site are doing it that way though. Guess time will tell if they have problems. If I had some way to measure accurately the outer spindle center on the 35 TTB and could make sure the 44 TTB spindle went to the same place and kept proper ball joint retention, then that's what I would have done.
I decided this was best for me as my truck will be driven on the highway and keeps the stock critical ball joint and steering.
that was a realy good idea, it will give alot of people some more rear end options now that they can get the other lug pattern. I wonder how similar the D28 and D35 knuckle are or if it would even be possible to do the same swap.
71 Bronco - twin sticked, full width, 2" lift, wristed arm, lots of rust...
http://www.catalystcycles.com
http://www.catalystcycles.com
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Seems to me the rear 8.8 axle is said to have a large enough wheel mounting surface to drill it for the 5 on 5.5 pattern. Or you could go with a 1/2 ton full width rear 8.8 or 9".
The 35 uses the same axle u-joints as the 44. You would have to have special inner axles made for the 28 and the knuckle may be too small. I'd just upgrade to a 35.
The 35 uses the same axle u-joints as the 44. You would have to have special inner axles made for the 28 and the knuckle may be too small. I'd just upgrade to a 35.
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I have both sides on now. The alignment is really off so it would be hard to measure. I did take the spare GM spindle and 44 TTB hub and place it next to a 35 spindle and hub/rotor. Looks like the 44 is 9/16" farther out. That is without a lock out on the 35. So subtract 1/4" to 5/16" (just a guess I don't have any 35 lock outs around) for the 35 lock out and it's 1/4" to 5/16" wider on each side. So track would be 1/2" to 5/8" wider.
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I updated my web page with more pic's, part numbers, and editing, It is at: http://www.mappyjack.com/Dana44.htm