BIG Z DUDE wrote:Pulled the front axle today but I could not get the Radius Arm brackets off. I am gonna pull the 9" tomorrow. but I have a question. on the d44 where the radius arms connect there are to little triangles on each side of the axle that are part of the axle. what do I do, dont I have to move the mounts in 2". can I cut the triangles off or what. please help!!!!!!!!!!
The 78-79 Dana 44's have cast wedges that cannot be moved. Your only choices are to space out the coil spring buckets and radius arm brackets from your frame, or cut the axle down.
I recommend cutting it down. You only have to lop 6" off the long side. Here is a write-up on what's involved
Dana 44's 77 and earlier have welded on wedges which can be cut off and relocated. If I were to run full width, I would prefer to use one of these axles.
I don't know of any write-ups on the 9", but you'll need an alignment jig. Other than that, whack the ends off and weld them back on. Since most of us don't have and alignment jig in our toolbox, you're pretty much stucking having a shop do it.
Perfect alignment isn't really critical on front axles, but on the rear it needs to be, or you'll have all kinds of problems.
Since the axle tubes slide into the diff housing and are welded in, I woul think that a qualified torch operator could burn the weld off and pull the tubes out, then cutting them down and reinstalling them at the proper length. you will have to leave the same amount of tube to slie into the housing as the factory did. The axles I would have sent off with the proper lengths, and then resplined.
EBSteve just likes to watch me break things.:-)
420HP and 775Ft lbs Now it is time to break things.
ranger5.0 wrote:I woul think that a qualified torch operator could burn the weld off and pull the tubes out, then cutting them down and reinstalling them at the proper length.
Sounds easy but it never is, IMO this way is not the way unless you have to do it that way.
Ranger 5.o, needing another project like Rosie O'Donnell needs another M&M.
ranger5.0 wrote:I woul think that a qualified torch operator could burn the weld off and pull the tubes out, then cutting them down and reinstalling them at the proper length.
Sounds easy but it never is, IMO this way is not the way unless you have to do it that way.
so can I grind the welds off like the front end or what?
big z dude what do you want? Do you want full width or do you want to be the same width? Because its going to be alot of work to cut down the axles. I wouldnt even go threw the effort of cutting down a for 9 inch sense you can get them at the right width for relatively cheap and you can sell your 9 inch that you have right now. If you want to go full width all you have to do is move your coil buckets out 2 inches which isnt hard at all and your going to have to do a heck of alot more work to cut down the axle and make sure everything lines up and pick up new axle shaft and make sure you cut it to the right length and set the caster of kunkle right other wise your going to wear tires funny and might even steer funny. You also better make sure you do some good welds on there. I would stick with the axles the way you have them and just put your buckets out and run some rims with alot of off set to bring them in if you want a narrower stance.
I dont want to space out the coil buckets it sounds like it would be weak and look like s**t also if I spaced the coil buckets out I would thave to space the radius arm brackets out to and that allso would look like s**t. So I think I am ganna just find a d44 with weld on weges and move them in 2.5".
ranger5.0 wrote:Since the 9 inch is stamped steel and not cast it seem like an easy deal. I haven't done it though, It might be an experiment I will have to try.
ranger5.0 wrote:I woul think that a qualified torch operator could burn the weld off and pull the tubes out, then cutting them down and reinstalling them at the proper length.
Sounds easy but it never is, IMO this way is not the way unless you have to do it that way.
so can I grind the welds off like the front end or what?
Yes you can, it's going to be a boat ancor when you are done.
Ranger 5.o, needing another project like Rosie O'Donnell needs another M&M.
honestly, I would look for a rear that is the right width or cut the ends off, chop the tube down and reweld them on. a shop can do this to match an EB width housing. then you can buy 31 spline axles for a 76-77 EB rear and you will eliminate any confusion. the full size drums and backing plates will work with those year axles. if you need some measurements on an EB housing let me know and I will get them for you because I have one laying out back.
as for the front...if you are going to cut it down do like phillipi did and just cut down the long side. that way you just have to deal with one shaft being different. if you try to find an EB housing for the most part it will be low pinion, smaller axle joints, and drum brakes. when you get done narrowing the 79 housing it will be high pinion, larger axle joints and disk brakes. the only down fall to that is the place where the steering hooks up is low but you can change that later when money permits.
71 Bronco - twin sticked, full width, 2" lift, wristed arm, lots of rust...
