power steering pump question....

DBrown · Post by **DBrown** » Wed Nov 02, 2005 5:40 pm

ok, I think I already know the answer to this but I just want to make sure I am right.....

I have manual steering on the EB but I am running the belt system from a E150 van that uses a sag. pump. I am wanting to fire the motor but have not installed the PS box. and the PS pump is what drives the water pump.

soooooo.......can I plug the lines on the pump, fill it and not burn up the pump?

I am trying to just get it to the point that I can fire and start shaking down some problems I might be having.

Post by **Nobody** » Wed Nov 02, 2005 5:44 pm

I don't think that would be a very good idea.

Can you temporarily rework the belt to run the water pump and alternator? Are you using V-belts?

ranger5.0 · Post by **ranger5.0** » Wed Nov 02, 2005 6:33 pm

Definitly don't plug the pressure out line. I would maybe connect the pressure to the return line and I think you will be ok. as long as pressure has somewhere to go.

DBrown · Post by **DBrown** » Thu Nov 03, 2005 6:06 am

yeah, I am running the v belt setup off a e150 van that came with a sag pump. one belt runs the crank and alt. and the other runs the powersteering, water pump, and crank.

the only way I think I could rework the belts to make it work would be to run a double belt pully on the alternator, but I was just looking for a simpler way.

I didn't think it was going to work but it was worth the shot. I might try to connect the pressure line to the low pressure line and see if that works, but I am worried it will build up too much pressure in the pump.

basicly I am wanting to put the motor in time and tune it all in before I start on the steering.

Bob Myers · Post by **Bob Myers** » Sun Nov 06, 2005 2:49 pm

Just plumb the pressure hose to the return port and it will be OK.

DBrown · Post by **DBrown** » Sun Nov 06, 2005 4:05 pm

well, I made the decision today to just hook up the new box.

swapped the worm gear from a 81 4x4 box so I just need to bolt it to the frame and hook up the lines so I can start it up.

took a whole 30 min to swap the worm gear.....pretty easy. I think the time will be invested in the box mounting and altering the linkage for the joints. also kind of wondering if I am going to have to upgrade to a larger style drag link. but I will cross that bridge when I get there.

thanks for the help!

Post by **Nobody** » Sun Nov 06, 2005 6:49 pm

The EB pitman arm should fit the power steering box.

I'm curious, were there any gaskets that needed to be replaced when you swapped the worm gear? I haven't done mine yet.

Also make sure you do the frame re-enforment. You can buy a kit, or make your own.

DBrown · Post by **DBrown** » Mon Nov 07, 2005 4:37 am

there were 2 gaskets.....they were like large o rings. I didn't replace them because they looked good. there is one on top of the main shaft and on at the top of the worm gear cover. I didn't take any pics but I have a 2wd box in several pieces I might be able to get some pics up tonight. it is really easy. just make sure you don't pull the center shaft out of the worm gear because you will drop around 20 ball bearings all over the place.....

the way you get it apart is:

1. remove the pitman arm bolt and arm
2. remove the 2 5/8" bolts the are on top of the main shaft retainer
3. rotate the plat so you can see the teeth where the worm gear and main shaft connect.
4. then tap the retiner with a hammer real easy to remove the main shaft.
5. then take the 4 9/16" bolts on the retainer for the worm gear.
6. rotate the steering shaft on the housing to pull the worm gear up to the removable housing
7. then pull the top housing out.

the box is now empty so you just reinstall the same way it came apart. I also marked the main shaft so I knew which way the pit man arm went back on.

I planned to do the bracket but I think I am going to make my own. the bracket just seems to easy to not do it your self.

EBSTEVE · Post by **EBSTEVE** » Tue Nov 08, 2005 8:19 am

I just plated the frame on either side but make sure you sleeve the frame where the bolt go, like Nobody said the Bronco pitman arm will work and you can buy a rebuild kit for the box for around $15 and it's got the o-rings, hard seals and seals needed but it's only necessary if it's leaking IMO.
Also make sure you loosen the screw on top of the sector shaft all the way prior to installing it and adjust it until it just drags with the wheel centered, if it's too tight it will tear stuff up, there is a spec in inch pounds for the drag but I don't have it anymore and I just did it by feel with the box on the bench when I did mine.

DBrown · Post by **DBrown** » Thu Nov 10, 2005 1:29 pm

how's this for a clean install?

Post by **Nobody** » Fri Nov 11, 2005 7:24 am

DBrown wrote:how's this for a clean install?

That's pretty much how I did my BII at first. I think you'll find that you are lacking in the cooling department. I added a cooler, but at the very least, you should add in a length of steel tube on the return. It will be fine like that for street duty though.

I also have my HP line bent at an extreme angle like yours. I was concerned about it, but it's been fine. With the addition of hydroboost, that's all about to change.

DBrown · Post by **DBrown** » Fri Nov 11, 2005 7:44 am

I planned to do some type of cooler line but I am just trying to get it running and move it around the yard at this point. still have to plate the frame and do the connection at the steering joint but I am ready to fire once I get the manifolds and radiator in.

since I am planning the disk brake upgrade and am only planning to run 32's I think I am just going to do the power brake upgrade later. hydroboost is a good upgrade but I think I am going to run what I got for a little while.

Post by **Nobody** » Fri Nov 11, 2005 8:04 am

Nothing wrong with running what you got. I'm still running 4 wheel drum and armstrong steering. I have 32's, and for the most part it stops fine, but I do get nervous knowing that there's no way I'm going to stop as fast as the guy in front of me. I try to drive accordingly, but sometimes other people throw you a curve ball.

You need to hurry up and get that thing going! Did you put the NP435/205 in?

DBrown · Post by **DBrown** » Fri Nov 11, 2005 11:32 am

no, still has the 3 speed and D20. I am saving that for later. I am thinking that I will probably use the D20 instead of the 205 for now, but I will probably keep the 205 adaptor for later if they ever decide to put the lomax 205 on the market.

I decided to do the ford disk swap after all......even though I will have low steering connections. I pulled the disk brakes off the other housing today so I will probably get that situated this weekend. I am going to save the knuckles for later though....I know I will probably find a good deal on the chevy stuff if I just wait and look.

now just have to bolt up exhaust and a rad and I will be able to move it around the yard...

Post by **Nobody** » Fri Nov 11, 2005 12:45 pm

I'm glad you are going to run the 3 speed for awhile. It's old school, and fun. But definately needs to be swapped out at some point. It makes you appreciate the history. One of the first sticks I drove was my dads 3 in the tree ford van.

I'm looking forward to running an auto in my EB someday.