driveshaft angles

datlo · Post by **datlo** » Wed Aug 31, 2005 6:49 pm

I'm looking for some ideas on how to solve my front driveshaft problems. I have an EB 44 with wildhorses 5.5 VR coils and running a T-18 205 combo. my front shaft is going to be about 24-25 inches long and looks to be running at around 30 degrees. Doesn't work without binding.

I was looking at some of the high angle shafts but really can't afford to drop $500-$1000 on one.

please help

Post by **Nobody** » Wed Aug 31, 2005 8:15 pm

My driveshaft is pretty much maxed out with the 3.5 coils on full droop.

You have a few options. I think a HP44 would help a ton. That is going to be my solution.

Or you can get a front shaft with 1330 or 1350 joints in the CV, which will allow for more angle. You can use a conversion joint to connect it to the transfer case, or even better, upgrade the yoke to a 1330. I'm going to upgrade the next time I need a front shaft. Just get one from a fullsize ford/chev and have it cut to length. Costs about $50 around here.

You can lower the transfercase. But that would suck. I think someone makes and adapter that would let you clock it down...but that would suck too.

You could also turn the pinion up a bit, but then you'd have to cut and turn knuckles and wedges, and it would be more cost effective to go HP44.

Rockcrawler · Post by **Rockcrawler** » Wed Aug 31, 2005 8:28 pm

you could put a doubler in there for a longer drive line. Dont get high angle drive lines they suck my buddy has blown up two when he never broke a stock one. (and he was on flat ground the second time) i never had any problems with my HP axle so that would be a nice way to go but they only came in fullsizes so you will have to cut down the axle.

Post by **Nobody** » Wed Aug 31, 2005 8:31 pm

Rockcrawler wrote:you could put a doubler in there for a longer drive line. Dont get high angle drive lines they suck my buddy has blown up two when he never broke a stock one. (and he was on flat ground the second time) i never had any problems with my HP axle so that would be a nice way to go but they only came in fullsizes so you will have to cut down the axle.

Good call on the doubler...

And yeah....I've never had problems running stock driveshafts.

datlo · Post by **datlo** » Wed Aug 31, 2005 8:34 pm

What size are the stock EB joints?

Do you know of anybody the has drilled out the plug welds on the housing and rotated the pinion up and just left the c-bushings alone?

Post by **Nobody** » Wed Aug 31, 2005 8:38 pm

The stock EB should be 1310......

I just noticed you said you have a NP205, so might already have the 1330's or 1350's. The bigger the joint, the more angle you get. Are you running a front CV?

datlo · Post by **datlo** » Wed Aug 31, 2005 8:39 pm

I think a doubler might start to cause the same angle problems for the rear.

datlo · Post by **datlo** » Wed Aug 31, 2005 8:41 pm

My 205 has the same yokes that the D20 had.

Post by **Nobody** » Wed Aug 31, 2005 8:41 pm

The t-18 is a short tranny, and you can move the rear axle back an inch or two pretty easy. I think you'd be ok.

datlo · Post by **datlo** » Wed Aug 31, 2005 8:57 pm

Nobody. out of curioity do know what degree your front shaft is at sitting at rest an at full droop?

Post by **Nobody** » Wed Aug 31, 2005 9:08 pm

Sorry, no clue. I don't even own an angle guage.

Surprisingly, the driveshaft doesn't really move much becuase the diff is near the center of the axle. With the suspension at rest, if I disconnect the driveshaft and let it hang, it binds a couple inches below the pinion.

You didn't say if you were using a CV

datlo · Post by **datlo** » Wed Aug 31, 2005 9:24 pm

It is a cv. I do have another set of shafts with the bigger joints out of an 84 fs bronco but the front in that set isn't a cv.

Do you know if i'd be able to use the yoke off of a 208 and put them on the 205?

Post by **Nobody** » Wed Aug 31, 2005 9:27 pm

Don't know about the yoke interchange, but I doubt it.

Check e-bay or some of the locals in your neck of the woods. Should be pretty easy to come up with.

Rockcrawler · Post by **Rockcrawler** » Wed Aug 31, 2005 9:56 pm

I wouldnt worry about the drive line. Mine is only 19 inches lone in the back becasue i run a custom doubler that is extreamly long! What you do is just limit the center downward travel. As for the ceter welds your not going to be able to drill them out. They are harden. And then you need new axle tubes and even if you can seve them you need to get the tubes pressed out then pressed back in.

Post by **Nobody** » Thu Sep 01, 2005 5:12 am

Yeah those spot welds are extremely hard. You can't drill them unless you have some high-end drill bits. You can blow them out with a torch, but that's sloppy.

What size tire are you going to run?