i really didnt want to go with an automatic when i built my 87 4x4 5.0 last year, as I hate fords automatics, especially the c4. After a foot of snow and a day of pulling people out of it, the one year old c4 went to shit. i want a manual now, but i gotta do it cheap.
i am thinking of going with the np435/205 combo. i figure i need to get the transand t-case out of a 70's truck or bronco obviously, and i need a bellhousing out of an 80's hydraulic clutch truck, but i dont know which ones have the bellhousing bolt pattern for the 435. and for the slave...can i use the ranger master cylinder and the f150 slave, or will it not flow enough to operate the full size slave? can i use an f150 master cylinder and slave and have it bolt right onto the ranger firewall? what did you guys have to have done to your driveshafts to make them fit then? I am running D35/8.8 explorer suspension with 3.27 locker front and limited slip rear.
my main concerns here are findint which bellhousing has the correct pattern for the 435 AND is hydraulic, and what hydraulic setup to use. anybody used a bellhousing for a mechanical setup and adapted a hydraulic slave to it?
thanks
how to put a 435/205 in 5.0 ranger?
I personally think putting a 435/205 is easier than putting in an automatic. I used a 435/205 from a '76 F-250 and the bellhousing is an aluminum one out of an '84 F-250 with the hydralic slave on the side of the housing. I found this sitting in the mud with back plate at the junk yard, slave was no good, but make sure to keep the nipple from the end of the hydralic line from the truck. I then cut off the end of my B2 master down by the bellhousing, heated it up with a torch and pressed that nipple into the end of it. I'm running a centerforce dual friction 11" clutch and this setup releases the clutch.
As for driveshafts I got kinda lucky. I found a '92 explorer 2 door sport with an automatic...the rear driveshaft looked to be about the right length. I put in my 5.5" lift at the same time I did mine. Turned out to be the perfect length. Its nice because it has 1350 u-joints I believe and one end had the 3" pattern square flange and the other had the 2.5" flange. My front driveshaft is out of the 84 F-250 as well, had to have that shortened, but with the lift you can see it binding at full flex. If I were to do it again, I'd get a front output flange from the cheby version of the 205 which has a square flange that bolts to it. All of the front shafts I've seen for cheby's the CV u-joint at the t-case end, which would fix my problem and not have week straps on the t-case side anymore. They look like a well built shaft, probably have to have it shortened though.
My rear shaft is actually longer than when I had the C4 and stock t-case, and I don't need a CV u-joint in the rear anymore. As for the shifter, it hit the dash in first gear, just heated that with the torch and bent it down, length seemed about right. As for the 435 you can use, I believe anywhere from a '62-'92 Ford or dodge 4wd version. The 205 from the dodge will work if the axle drop is on the side with the pumpkin, otherwise it would need to be a ford version.
Hope that helps.
Merry Christmas everyone!
Wes
As for driveshafts I got kinda lucky. I found a '92 explorer 2 door sport with an automatic...the rear driveshaft looked to be about the right length. I put in my 5.5" lift at the same time I did mine. Turned out to be the perfect length. Its nice because it has 1350 u-joints I believe and one end had the 3" pattern square flange and the other had the 2.5" flange. My front driveshaft is out of the 84 F-250 as well, had to have that shortened, but with the lift you can see it binding at full flex. If I were to do it again, I'd get a front output flange from the cheby version of the 205 which has a square flange that bolts to it. All of the front shafts I've seen for cheby's the CV u-joint at the t-case end, which would fix my problem and not have week straps on the t-case side anymore. They look like a well built shaft, probably have to have it shortened though.
My rear shaft is actually longer than when I had the C4 and stock t-case, and I don't need a CV u-joint in the rear anymore. As for the shifter, it hit the dash in first gear, just heated that with the torch and bent it down, length seemed about right. As for the 435 you can use, I believe anywhere from a '62-'92 Ford or dodge 4wd version. The 205 from the dodge will work if the axle drop is on the side with the pumpkin, otherwise it would need to be a ford version.
Hope that helps.
Merry Christmas everyone!
Wes
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If you haven't already, check out the write-up on my V8 install.
http://www.broncoii4x4.com/v8swap/302swap.htm
I used the mechanical linkage cast iron bellhousing, a landcruiser slave cylinder, and my stock master cylinder. The pedal is a little hard, but it's been working flawlessly for years now.
I originally looked for the aluminum bellhousing with hydraulic slave cylinder, but couldn't find one. I also suspect that the slave cylinder wouldn't have cleared my headers.
Wilber on this board recently converted to a NP435 with factory slave. I don't recall if his factory BII master cylinder worked though.
Do a search on NP435. We've had a couple of discussions that are probably worth reading.
http://www.broncoii4x4.com/v8swap/302swap.htm
I used the mechanical linkage cast iron bellhousing, a landcruiser slave cylinder, and my stock master cylinder. The pedal is a little hard, but it's been working flawlessly for years now.
I originally looked for the aluminum bellhousing with hydraulic slave cylinder, but couldn't find one. I also suspect that the slave cylinder wouldn't have cleared my headers.
Wilber on this board recently converted to a NP435 with factory slave. I don't recall if his factory BII master cylinder worked though.
Do a search on NP435. We've had a couple of discussions that are probably worth reading.
-
greasydonkey
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Sat Dec 25, 2004 9:31 am
No body lift for me. The main reason I made such a big hole is so I can remove the transmission top cover if I had to. I also wanted easy access to the transfercase shift linkage.
With a body lift, you can probably get away with just a hole for the shifter, but that would also depend on your engine placement.
With a body lift, you can probably get away with just a hole for the shifter, but that would also depend on your engine placement.
I am using a 2-inch body lift with the tunnel pan out of the 1977 donor truck, that I will cut out the floor and bolt down the new tunnel just like it came in the donor. I think this will give me the room and it also gives me the mountings for the shifter boots. Then when I will need to service the vehicle the tunnel pan is easily unbolted and I will have access to the hard to reach areas.
EBSteve just likes to watch me break things.:-)
420HP and 775Ft lbs Now it is time to break things.
420HP and 775Ft lbs Now it is time to break things.
been really busy and havent been on latley. I used the external slave, and ranger master cylinder, had some issues, but i think my master was bad. Due to work i havent had the chance to work on it, but should beable to this week. I have the new master in, just need to put the line in and bleed it. then its out to do some snow testing.