SAS
I'm getting in on this conversation kinda late...but....I used leafs on the frt of my 85 BroII with a D44 outta an older F-150. I opted to use hi-steer. There are advantages and disadvantages to both suspensions I guess. I will tell ya this tho.....I am running full hyd steer and it was a lot easier to set-up than normal steering. The leafs were the MAIN reason I used hyd.
Well, got the front all delt with. Ended up finding a pair of james duff EB 3.5"ers for 50 bucks which was nice.. Now im wondering about the back. what have you guys used to even it out? Wont be 3 or 4 linking it for awhile, so what kind of leaves have you guys used to even things out. Running a D60 out back. Thanks
Wes
Wes
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marinebroncoii
- Posts: 112
- Joined: Sat Nov 13, 2004 11:02 am
- Location: Jacksonville, NC
- Contact:
Don't know how I missed you guys talking in this thread so much. I think you pretty much have the front figured out, and it sounds like a great setup. Here's a post I had on B2.org:
I wanted to swap in a Dana 44HD out of a '79 F-250 but did not want to use the leaf spring setup that came on the axle. So I ordered axle wedges from James Duff and welded them to my axle. Then I got '70s F-150/fullsize Bronco radius arms and put them on the axle. Before this swap I had a 2.5" susp. lift on my truck so I moved the blocks and crossmember that the stock radius arms bolt into back about 14" on the frame so that I could bolt the longer F-150 radius arms into them and have them at a better angle because of the lift blocks. I didn't want to move my stock spring buckets, so I made my own mounts for the bottom of the spring. I did this using 3/4' stock. I took one piece and drilled and countersunk hole to bolt it onto the radius arm, then I took another piece and drilled an counter sunk for a 1" bolt to stick up through. I bolted down the bottom one then welded the 1" bolt into the top one and stacked the two together and welded them. Then on top I welded a bushing that fit tightly in the bottom coil of my spring around the bolt. Then all I did was put the spring in and use a big washer and nut to hold it down, the bushing holds it center on the mount pad. I got my coils from a local spring shop, I just told them what vehicle I had and that I had the sdded weight of the V8 and fullsize Tranny and T-case and how long I wanted them when they were compressed and they hooked me up with coils that were the right diameter for the spring buckets and the height and spring rate I needed for under $100. I used the steering off af an F-150 solid D44 axle and only had to cut the piece that goes from the steering gear box to the solid drag link. Now my steering isn't on too much of an angle with the crossover steering setup. All of this would also work on a Dana 60 front from a 1-ton that came coil sprung.
For the rear here is another post of what I did to lift the Dana 60:
I was looking for a way to lift me rear for cheap, without using any blocks. I started looking for springs at a scrapyard and found that early 80s Chevy 1/2 ton springs have the most arch and front to center bolt matches stock B2 springs. I ended up interweaving two packs of the springs, one that had 3 springs and one that had 4 and the bottom flat spring to get the ride I wanted. The rear of the spring is shorter than our stock springs so the rear bracket had to be moved forward, which is an easy grind drill and bolt process. I still needed alot more lift so instead of reusing the rear brackets that hold the shackle clear at the top of the frame I used the brackets off the front of Chevey 1/2 ton springs- which hold the shackle about 1.5" below the frame, giving you another 4.5" of lift. Then I still needed more lift and wanted more flex, so I made shackles using the old bushing section from the stock shackle and flat 1/4" stock to make shackle with three length settings- 6-7.5-9 inches. I ended up using the 6 inch position and it gave me the lift you see on my truck, without using any rear lift block at all. You could use any combination of these 3 things to lift the rear of your truck to the desired height for much cheaper than new leaf springs. I live next to and know the owner of a junk yard which makes it even cheaper and easier to get these parts, but it would be cheap for you as well. Sorry, no pictures I am in Japan now and did not take any during the build up, but on my cardomain site the pictures show the ride height and you can see the shackles hanging down and see where they are coming from.
Hope this helps and if you have any questions let me know. I'll try to keep a closer eye on this thread.
I wanted to swap in a Dana 44HD out of a '79 F-250 but did not want to use the leaf spring setup that came on the axle. So I ordered axle wedges from James Duff and welded them to my axle. Then I got '70s F-150/fullsize Bronco radius arms and put them on the axle. Before this swap I had a 2.5" susp. lift on my truck so I moved the blocks and crossmember that the stock radius arms bolt into back about 14" on the frame so that I could bolt the longer F-150 radius arms into them and have them at a better angle because of the lift blocks. I didn't want to move my stock spring buckets, so I made my own mounts for the bottom of the spring. I did this using 3/4' stock. I took one piece and drilled and countersunk hole to bolt it onto the radius arm, then I took another piece and drilled an counter sunk for a 1" bolt to stick up through. I bolted down the bottom one then welded the 1" bolt into the top one and stacked the two together and welded them. Then on top I welded a bushing that fit tightly in the bottom coil of my spring around the bolt. Then all I did was put the spring in and use a big washer and nut to hold it down, the bushing holds it center on the mount pad. I got my coils from a local spring shop, I just told them what vehicle I had and that I had the sdded weight of the V8 and fullsize Tranny and T-case and how long I wanted them when they were compressed and they hooked me up with coils that were the right diameter for the spring buckets and the height and spring rate I needed for under $100. I used the steering off af an F-150 solid D44 axle and only had to cut the piece that goes from the steering gear box to the solid drag link. Now my steering isn't on too much of an angle with the crossover steering setup. All of this would also work on a Dana 60 front from a 1-ton that came coil sprung.
For the rear here is another post of what I did to lift the Dana 60:
I was looking for a way to lift me rear for cheap, without using any blocks. I started looking for springs at a scrapyard and found that early 80s Chevy 1/2 ton springs have the most arch and front to center bolt matches stock B2 springs. I ended up interweaving two packs of the springs, one that had 3 springs and one that had 4 and the bottom flat spring to get the ride I wanted. The rear of the spring is shorter than our stock springs so the rear bracket had to be moved forward, which is an easy grind drill and bolt process. I still needed alot more lift so instead of reusing the rear brackets that hold the shackle clear at the top of the frame I used the brackets off the front of Chevey 1/2 ton springs- which hold the shackle about 1.5" below the frame, giving you another 4.5" of lift. Then I still needed more lift and wanted more flex, so I made shackles using the old bushing section from the stock shackle and flat 1/4" stock to make shackle with three length settings- 6-7.5-9 inches. I ended up using the 6 inch position and it gave me the lift you see on my truck, without using any rear lift block at all. You could use any combination of these 3 things to lift the rear of your truck to the desired height for much cheaper than new leaf springs. I live next to and know the owner of a junk yard which makes it even cheaper and easier to get these parts, but it would be cheap for you as well. Sorry, no pictures I am in Japan now and did not take any during the build up, but on my cardomain site the pictures show the ride height and you can see the shackles hanging down and see where they are coming from.
Hope this helps and if you have any questions let me know. I'll try to keep a closer eye on this thread.
8-9" susp, 3" body lift, 39.5x16 TRXUS STS, 342 stroker, C6, NP205, D44HD mini spool-coil sprung, D60 limited slip, 4.88s
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marinebroncoii
- Posts: 112
- Joined: Sat Nov 13, 2004 11:02 am
- Location: Jacksonville, NC
- Contact:
did you already weld on the wedges? I just held the wedges in with the radius arms to get everything set up just right and then tack welded them in place after I had the width and the castor right. I ended up making my own mounts on the radius arms though that held the spring in like the stock B2 setup did with a bigger bolt and beter way to center it though.
8-9" susp, 3" body lift, 39.5x16 TRXUS STS, 342 stroker, C6, NP205, D44HD mini spool-coil sprung, D60 limited slip, 4.88s
coils
How long does it take for the 3.5" JD coils to settle to the 6" ride height. I have skyjacker 6" leaves in the rear and was thinking of putting the JD coils up front and was wondering how long i would have to go with the nose in the air before it levels out.
Yeah...a couple good wheelin trips should break them in nicely.
A little bit bull dog is actually a good thing when it comes to braking and cornering. I like that look too. I think you'll sit pretty level though.
The EB coils are perfect for this swap. You can run 33's with slight fender trimming, or 36's with lot's of trimming.
A little bit bull dog is actually a good thing when it comes to braking and cornering. I like that look too. I think you'll sit pretty level though.
The EB coils are perfect for this swap. You can run 33's with slight fender trimming, or 36's with lot's of trimming.
What about centering the axel. If I put these coils in and get the trac bar and steering set up and everything centered. Won't it start to shift to the
passenger side as the coils settle. I had read that they settle almost two inches. I'm trying to avoid having to do things twice.
One more thing. If it does settle two inches, what about the length on the front driveshaft. Could the slip yoke bottom out under heavy compression of the suspension?
Thanks in advance for any help.
passenger side as the coils settle. I had read that they settle almost two inches. I'm trying to avoid having to do things twice.
One more thing. If it does settle two inches, what about the length on the front driveshaft. Could the slip yoke bottom out under heavy compression of the suspension?
Thanks in advance for any help.