wristed arm welding?

DBrown · Post by **DBrown** » Mon Nov 15, 2004 3:00 pm

that site does have some good info.
I have ripped apart the book case in my front room and I haven't found the packet yet, but I did find 2 packets of milling and machineing notes?..... this realy sucks cause I had those notes here like a month ago and I knew I would need them so I put them somewhere so I wouldn't loose them......go figure. I will continue to look but all that info is a good start. the stuff I had has all the info on what the flux is made out of and what good and bad beads look like. it also tells you how to recognise what is wrong with the bead you just laid, by looking and knowing if the amps are too high or low stuff like that.

Phillippi · Post by **Phillippi** » Mon Nov 15, 2004 3:25 pm

If you find it, I would love to read it. Can you scan it when you do find it?

FatMan · Post by **FatMan** » Mon Nov 15, 2004 4:00 pm

this realy sucks cause I had those notes here like a month ago and I knew I would need them so I put them somewhere so I wouldn't loose them......go figure

happens to me all the time

Phillippi Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2004 4:25 pm Post subject:

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If you find it, I would love to read it. Can you scan it when you do find it?

i to would also like to read up on it..... does it tell how to know if you have enough penetration?

DBrown · Post by **DBrown** » Mon Nov 15, 2004 7:43 pm

yeah, I'll get it on here some how......

I'm not sure if there is anyway to realy know how well you penitrated unless you xray or cut the weld and look at it.

there is a discolored area called the Base melt I usualy look at that and just kinda know. you want this area to be peasent but not to wide. usualy if the bead fails it will fail here not threw the center of the bead. the point of the metal breaking is called plastic deformation

I did find some notes so I can add this info:

in my notes it has that the 4th number is the type of flux that the rod is coated in. the flux is a protective shielding that stablizes the arc and removes impurities. from what I remeber from class it mainly stops oxygen from getting into the bead. it surounds the arc with gas so it can't get sucked in and contaminate it. oxygen will make the bead weak. that is why an inert gass is used in mig welding.

I also found this formula:

H= (E*I*60)/&

H = Normal Heat Input (Joule/mm/min)
E = Voltage
I = Current
& = travel speed(mm/min)

have I confused anyone yet?

Post by **Nobody** » Mon Nov 15, 2004 7:52 pm

I picked up some 1/8 6013 tonight. It works pretty good. Doesn't penetrate the best though.

If you want to see how well your welds are penetrating, you can just do a simple butt weld. You'll realize pretty quick why prep work is important, especially beveling the edges of critical welds.

DBrown · Post by **DBrown** » Mon Nov 15, 2004 7:58 pm

If you want to see how well your welds are penetrating, you can just do a simple butt weld. You'll realize pretty quick why prep work is important, especially beveling the edges of critical welds.

yeah, that would work pretty good too. prep is 90% of the job, but by far the most important part. kinda like a foundation on a house, you can't build on it if it's bad.

FatMan · Post by **FatMan** » Mon Nov 15, 2004 9:37 pm

here is some more info

VOLTAGE (E)=I*R
RESISTANCE (R)=E/I
CURRENT (I)= E/R
POWER (P)=I*E
dont know if it'll help in welding.