Spare lift block around ?block dimensions and angle?

username required · Post by **username required** » Wed Oct 13, 2004 11:26 am

I have a set of 3" universal lowering blocks but I don't know if they will work on the B2. I'm not trying to lower it

I'd like to cut the blocks down to a 1" and a 1.5" and level out the back of my B2.

So I need the length and width of the blocks and also the angle it has to be at? Please

Lowering and lift blocks are the same right?

Thanks

AlbertaBoy · Post by **AlbertaBoy** » Wed Oct 13, 2004 5:06 pm

Umm...I can't tell you what length and width they should be 'cause my B2 is 10 miles away from me right now. But when I get there I would have to take a tape and measure the perch anyway...that is what you could do as well...just measure the width of the leafs and the length of the perch. It'll be something like 2.5x4 but I am not sure. As far as an angle goes...They should be just flat blocks. You will need a hole for the centering pin and probably longer u-bolts. You would be better off to try and find some ranger springs. They will take the sag out and save you having blocks in. I could be wrong though, I sometimes am...

DBrown · Post by **DBrown** » Wed Oct 13, 2004 5:48 pm

heres what you do.....take one of the blocks to autozone and ask to see a lifting block for a ranger/BII. compare, and make sure they are the same. yes, a lifting block and lowering block are the same the only thing that would cause them to have a different name is if the leaf is on top or bottom of the axle. do not alter the block you have! the angle needs to be right in order to give you the correct pinion angle and the center pin hole or nipple needs to be in the location and size it is now. besides blocks are only like $40.

Bob Myers · Post by **Bob Myers** » Wed Oct 13, 2004 7:45 pm

Ifd you can afford to do so, swap in a set of explorer springs, if you can't find a decent price on a used set you can always buy them new from JC Whitney for around 80 each, add the lowering shackles for a Chevy truck and you'll have about 4 inches of lift from stock saggy worn out B II springs. I did just that and left the 3 inch blocks in at first, decided it was way too high and took the blocks .out

TNMAN · Post by **TNMAN** » Wed Oct 13, 2004 7:51 pm

When my 85 BroII was relatively stock I put a pair of Add-a- Leaf springs on the rear and it leveled it up pretty good and even improved the ride some. They are pretty cheap too.

Post by **Nobody** » Wed Oct 13, 2004 7:54 pm

I recommend avoiding blocks, especially hacked up blocks. There are other better options. Reworking the shackle hanger is a good start. The exploder spring swap seems decent. I'm running fullsize bronco leafs.

If you just want some mall cruiser, go ahead and run blocks, but buy them new. Don't get aluminum blocks either, they will break. Happens all the time.

username required · Post by **username required** » Wed Oct 13, 2004 8:24 pm

Thanks and I'm not going for a mall cruiser

DZK007 · Post by **DZK007** » Sun Oct 24, 2004 9:14 pm

I bought my truck with some cheap aluminum blocks that broke after only a couple times out wheelin.

I made my own at work out of solid and they are 2.5 inches on the backside (tall) 2.5 wide and 6.0 long. I trimmed the pinion angle by cutting them at 3 degrees. The big problem with them is they don't add a lot of performance to the trucks ability other than getting the tail off the ground. Down side is they make spring wrap a real problem by adding to the amount of leverage the diffy has over the springs. Spring wrap destroys driveshafts

......

Invest your money wisely and just save it for real springs and shackles.