88 bronco ii driving down road and then shut off

[midnightryder740]

was driving down the road and it sputterd twice then shut off! messed around with it for a lil while then gave up.. came back next day and it started up and ran great... to die again.. has fuel pressure.. any ideas?

[rmodel65]

TFI module take it off and get it tested at the auto parts store might only show bad when its hot though more than likely thats the culprit

[88Bsquared]

wow im kind of glad to hear somebody else is having the same problem mine is doing the same thing i thought they guy i had put my clutch in possible goofed something up, ok heres my end,88 bII 2.9L efi 4x4 eddie bauer ed., ok a buddy put my clutch in because ive never done it before and i didnt have the time to do it, drove home fine just 5 miles, next day picked up my sis and went to aunts funeral battery died on me had to get jumped twice to get home put new batt in drove around that night did fine next day coming from work started sputtering, and its been doing that for a month and a half now it will sputter flood and shut off as if the key has been turned and will be a ahole to start back has damaged starter because of it, it will also backfire and it will have a sulfur/gunpowder emission fill the truck i have put fuel filter on, run lucas injector cleaner through it new cap rotor button and plugs w/wires still messing up buddy ran scanner on comp it read bad map sensor i replaced that and found pvc and grommet were both horrible replaced both became a little better never messes up during test run just the next morning when im going to work it comes back again each thing ive put on was needed and improved its running a little better but still leaving me on the side of the road trying to get it to start i have done everything my limited mechanical knowledge lets me do and nobody else knows what it is i have no more vac leaks and its been thru a tune up and the part the guy above me mentioned what is that where is that and what does it do im not good with abbreveations ive ran out of money time and patienence all while going thru hell in my personal life all i want is my best bud to run properly PLEASE HELP before i have a system melt down and start shaking in a corner...

[Dreded]

could also be the fuel pump on its way out... mine would randomly die then sit for 20min and start like there was never an issue... fuel pressure tested fine... about 2 weeks later it wouldnt work at all and it turned out to be fuel pump.

[davesbronco2]

I have the same fuel supply problem as well. The car starts but only runs for a second or two. Sometimes is runs a bit longer but not where I could actually drive it anywhere. The car does what I want it to do and I don't want to junk it or sell it because I can't fix this problem. I've tested the fuel pump (OK) and used a 12v tester on the "computer" board. It seems OK. A friend told me it could be something called an "inertia switch". Where the heck it that and what does it do?
Any help appreciated.

Thanks,

[Dreded]

the inertia switch is located on the passenger side foot well inside the cab just below the top edge of the carpet under the dash... its a 3x2" black box with an orange wire going to it(usually) and a pinkish red switch on top... it shuts off the fuel pumps incase of an accident etc... sometimes they trip when someone kicks the floor really hard :p

[Ranger Dave]

sometimes they trip when someone kicks the floor really hard :p

was driving down the road and it sputterd twice then shut off! messed around with it for a lil while then gave up.. came back next day and it started up and ran great... to die again.. has fuel pressure.. any ideas?

the inertia switch doesnt reset itself. its eightor on or off. that happened to my 88,i changer the fuel pump,nothin,it was
the computer.


this post it 2 months old now

[88Bsquared]

ok guys i think i got mine its still has a rough idle that i cant shake but i had codes run on it the first said it was the map sensor replaced that and the hose(had a pinhole) checked and double check all the vac lines then checked them running with carb cleaners still sputtered and cut off. ran codes again came up with a timing/spout(spark output) code they spout is discontined if your is truly bad you maybe able to find a ford dealer with one left ifnot to the junkyard you go in my state (VA) there were non local only 2 in the state so you best bet is the junkyard, ok my distrib. was loose so its possible that the timing was off but the spout lets the computer run the timing and will not notice that the timing has been changed until the spout has been disconnected. so check the dist. see if its loose if it is start the engine and let it warm to norm. op. temp. then unplug the spout if the engine picks up or dies your spout is working so loosen up the dist. ( if you have a timing light and knowledge to use it then follow steps to timing it back to spec) if it dies turn it counter clock wise a click at a time untill the engine picks up and runs its best this may take a few ups and downs in the timing till you can be sure where its running its best this may not be the correct timing but it stopped mine from cutting off, also i replaced tfi mod. they are notorious for burning out, you can check it yourself, take it off and with small knife or screw driver pop off the cover plate (DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT SHOVE TOOL INTO FILM just pry off cover) if you see black specs in the film its burn a connection or its got hot, mine had a huge ass air bubble in it so dont know if that was a factor but just being safe i replaced that anyway the newone didnt have the bubble so that could have been the whole problem anyway. also no to be argumenative but if the feul pump goes 9 outta 10 it dies completely or it will act as if you are out of gas you should have two pumps one in the tank and one under the drive side mounted to chasis near filter, the inner pump because its harder to get to will more than likely be the culprit and the inertia switch is on the pass side where your left foot is grab carpet and pull back you will see it smallish black box with a red button on it push it if it goes down then it was tripped. but in closing this reply i encourage all owners to periodicaly maybe every 3 or 4 months CHECK THE TIGHTNESS of the dist. bolt and cap screws they will loosten up for some reason dont know why they may not be loose enough for a spin by hand but if your laying ontop the engine putting back tran bolts you will knock it off, if you want to know more about the spout just google ford spout not alot of people have heard about them like me, but those who have had the problems can tell you about them now locating it is easy it comes off the tfi mod. two wires and all it looks like is just a small square plug with a t looking handle no wires going to it , it just basically completes and circuit for the module and the computer, the somewhat older thunder birds had the same issue but if this info and my experience helps then im glad if not i wish you good luck in chasing that ghost around the engine and if anybody knows how to stop the rough idle in mine im all ears because i cannot find any vaccum leaks it only does it when it idles at a long light or drive through sometimes worse when cold (winter) its something i can live with but would rather fix it, also anybody have problems keepins shocks on theirs? what about the right rear shock mount ive had mine welded back several times drive it on the road and nothing but the road for two weeks and it breaks for no reason you can hear it bumping the rear floor pans when you hit the brakes and does anyone know if these 84 to 88's broncs and rangers have defective desighned brakes the best braking i ever had was when my pads went metal to metal ive replaced everything and feels like she neve wants to stop correctly anyway good luck guys l8r

[RClem]

88 was the last year for 2 fuel pumps on the B2, you can install an 89-90 pump in the tank and eliminate the pump on the frame rail by putting a tube in it's place. this link has a lot of parts for A/C and fuel problems, http://www.perm-o-seal.com/catalog/default.asp on page 7 you will see the tube for eliminating the pump, it is a little long, but don't cut the nylon line, the plastic ends are near impossible to get back on. Cut the new steel line and put a compression splice in it to make the right length. When you join the tube ends and the splice, seal them up permanently, you will never need to take them apart again.
If you follow the link to my Photobucket, you will see how I eliminated having to drop the tank, (that is a real pain, takes about 4 hours the first time you do it)
http://i960.photobucket.com/albums/ae89 ... 1257776485 In the picture you will see a screw driver stuffed over the top of the tank, it is there to keep the wiring held down to keep from cutting it. If you do this mod, cut just deep enough to get threw the metal floor.

If you look around the right side inner fender well, the right side radiator support near the battery, and the left side near the cruise control on early 90 Explorers, (those with EEC-IV) you will find a spout in each location.

A truck will not run if the Inertia Switch is tripped, the picture on PB shows what you are looking for. http://i960.photobucket.com/albums/ae89 ... 1257776520

As for the shock mount, I have never had any problems with mine in 20+ years. Is it the top or bottom mounting that is giving you problems?

Hope this helps someone.

Ray

[Jr Riggs]

Ok I just started having the same problem. I have a 88BII 2.9L 4x4 auto trans. I replaced the fuel pump relay under the hood cause it wasn't clickin when i tried to start I even tried to reset the inertia switch and now I am not getting any power to my fuel system now. Is there any way that the inertia switch went bad?

[Ranger Dave]

by pass it

[Jr Riggs]

I have already tried to bypass it and still have no power to fuel ok after banging my head against a wall for about 10 hours i decided to check the grounds and the problem was a little black wire off the neg post of the battery and rewired that and runs like a champ thanks for the help all of you.
here is my 88 b2 all stock except the tire size and foot step

[RClem]

I have found over the years of owning RBV's that a continuity tester is a great piece of equipment for chasing some problems, grounds especially.
Glad you found the problem.
Is that a WA license plate?

Ray

[Jr Riggs]

yea I was livin in Port Angeles, WA but now i moved back to Carthage, MO